Additional cylinder for a dummy

[greeno]

Hi All,

I think i've read all the posts regarding adding a third function or TNT or rear remote to a Kubota. I'm still stumped..! Here is what i'm looking to do to my B2710 with LA402 loader:

Add an additional hydraulic cylinder, powered in both directions. I don't need joystick controls, just another valve block i will mount.

I'd like to understand the whole Power Beyond circuit and plumb this correctly, and on the cheap. I've attached a sketch of what i think it should look like; does this look correct?

 

[Creature Meadow]

Tried youtube, installing third function valve? Paul Short has a lot of videos not sure if one is installing the valve you are looking at but may be worth a few minutes.

Lot of knowledge here someone will know and offer ideas.

 

[aerolland]

Hi All,
I've attached a sketch of what i think it should look like; does this look correct?

This diagram is exactly correct and what I did on my B2150. I cut the hardline that runs down the right side of the transmission tunnel and brazed in two 90* elbows. Come off the front hard line elbow and go to the pressure in on the rear remote valve, then out the PB circuit back to the other 90* elbow that then goes on to the 3pt hitch control. The tank port off the rear remote valve goes into a Tee brazed into the hard line from the 3pt hitch control to the tank reservoir. Hard to see the details, but here's some pics:

 

[greeno]

This diagram is exactly correct and what I did on my B2150. I cut the hardline that runs down the right side of the transmission tunnel and brazed in two 90* elbows. Come off the front hard line elbow and go to the pressure in on the rear remote valve, then out the PB circuit back to the other 90* elbow that then goes on to the 3pt hitch control. The tank port off the rear remote valve goes into a Tee brazed into the hard line from the 3pt hitch control to the tank reservoir.

Can i do the same after the FEL block using tees and hoses? Not too keen on brazing.

 

[Al2]

Well I don't know much about it but I'm just about ready to add a top n tilt to my Kubota 4150. Going to use 2 diviter valves and tap into the bucket and loader hydraulic lines at the valve body somehow and use the existing hydraulic valve levers to control my rear remotes as needed. This was suggested by the hydraulic guy at Princess Auto as being the least expensive and easiest to install. Any suggestions, pro / con to this option appreciated.
Thanks
Al

 

[aerolland]

Can i do the same after the FEL block using tees and hoses? Not too keen on brazing.

Yes, in theory.

1) Hose out of PB port on loader control to PRESSURE IN on rear remote control.

2) Hose out of PB port on rear remote control to the hose that WAS in PB loader valve.

3) Hose from TANK port on rear remote control to a newly installed Tee in the TANK port hose found at the loader control.


Lots of hoses in that scenario, depending upon where you want to place the added spool valve.

 

[aerolland]

Going to use 2 diviter valves and tap into the bucket and loader hydraulic lines

This is possible for sure, however, in my opinion? Expensive.

Electric Option: (flip a switch to modify the loader control function)
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Solenoid-Selector-Diverter-Valve/dp/B077BS9G2Z

You would need 2x of these. One for the top link and one for the side tilt.

Pros:
Quick change from loader control to rear control
Only need loader control to do all hydraulic control
Could add momentary button on loader valve that keeps your hand on the controls
One of a kind!

Cons:
Lots of hoses and fitting
Expensive hardware
Electrical connections needed




Manual Option: (move a lever to modify the loader control function)
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Prince-Mfg/3-8-NPT-20-GPM-Prince-Selector-Valve-9-6133.axd

You would need 2X of these for EACH cylinder - so 4X total for Top and Tilt functions

Pros:
Only have loader control to control rear cylinders
Definitely one of a kind!

Cons:
LOTS of hoses and fitting (even more than above)
Expensive components
Expensive fittings
Will take up a lot of room


For my system, adding a simple 3 spool valve and just a top and tilt cylinder added up to roughly $1,000. I have the build sheet if you want to see it. In summary:

1x - 3 spool valve - $250
1x - top/tilt cylinder - $250
Hoses and Fittings - $500 (this one hurts because you never realize it until after the project...)

 

[Al2]

Thanks aerolland for your quick reply and suggestions. Quite clear you have experience in this sort of thing. I think I'm going with my planned route with selector valves as I already have them and have have discussed the install with the Princess Auto hydraulics guy. Not suggesting it's a better way , just what I'm going with. Apparently I only need 2 of these manual valves https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/20-gpm-6-way-2-position-selector-valve/A-p8173932e
and I think I have room for them as it's a larger size tractor .
Al