3pt cylinder housing removal

[jdl25]

L185

having trouble getting the 3 point lift cylinder housing removed. I have taken out 8 bolts and 2 nuts, nothing. I tried to push against a stud and lift the housing with a pry bar, nothing. I tried to hit it around the perimeter with a dead blow, nothing. Then I bolted up an engine hoist to it and I think it will lift the tractor. Are they just that tight? I am about to try to wedge something between the housing and the transmission case.

Any advise or experience to share? Please see pics.
Thanks

 

[phildac]

Here are some instructions. Hope it helps. Sounds like you've done everything right so far.

 

[jdl25]

I was thinking it should come off now. I just dont want to damage anything by pulling harder.

 

[phildac]

Well, they have been mated together for probably 30 years or more so it might take some extra coaxing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

With a little up force, smack it on the end of the rock shaft to help break it loose.

 

[jdl25]

I will try this and report back, thank you.

 

[Stubbyie]

If like mine (different model) you're going to find that a few decades later the studs have a good layer of rust and particulate material locking up their threads as they pass through the casting.

I think you're somewhat rust-locked. Try soaking all the studs with Kroil and let sit maybe overnight.

Consider also that the two halves of the casting are sealed by the factory with an RTV-type gasketing material. So you have some adhesion working against you. And if applied sloppily, also present on the studs and in their threads.

I've in the past had to use a thin knife blade to gradually tap between the two castings and work all the way around. Gradually work a gap to the point you can increase the size up to a thin stiff putty knife then to a junk wood chisel and keep tapping around the perimeter. Make certain you're not peeling metal as you do this. At some point it should pop loose (more likely kind of a peeling apart process). Keep a slight bind on it with your hoist as you work to separate the two pieces.

I'm reluctant to but have applied heat to the studs. I'm concerned direct heat (flame) may burn and carbonize the penetrating oil. I heat up a huge old copper soldering iron and then hold it to the stud. Then let it all cool back down and do it again with another dose of Kroil. Expanding and contracting the stud very slightly should let the oil work its way down.

Please post back your experiences and how you proceed and your outcome so we may all learn.

 

[Daren Todd]

While using your lift, if you have a heavy long pry bar, you can try apllying some pressure between the three point arms and frame and try rocking it back and forth to on either side to work it up.

 

[jdl25]

I got it off,

I used a sharp chisel with a long taper and tapped it into the seam on one corner. The corner lifted immediately and I was able to get a pry bar in to it at that point.

I cleaned up the piston and cylinder. The cylinder has a rough spot on it. I am hoping that the lift will work.

 

[Gunor]

Why are you removing it - just wondering.

Geoff in Oregon