Fabricating power shoot control for a BX5450 snowblower

I scored a good deal on a new BX5450 this weekend for my BX1860. The only drawback is it's manual shoot control which won't work with my cab...well, to be fair it could but I really don't see myself using a wonky crank handle attached to a $15,000 tractor with a $3,500 snowblower.

So, the plan is to use a power window motor and a linear actuator to get full control over the snow.

For the left to right action I've ordered a power window motor for a 02 Ford Crown Vic. I choose this one because the output shaft mates to a standard socket. I plan to weld a shaft on the socket and that shaft will sit in the same hole the handcrank rod currently resides.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301665587813?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

For the up and down motion I ordered a 4" linear actuator. This one comes with the brackets which should make installing it a bit easier.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/112053551895?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I picked up a small project box and a couple of DPDT momentary switches to control the motion.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111476556235?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

While I wait for the parts to be delivered I started the wiring. First I tapped into the terminal strip I already had installed for my cab to the right of the battery. On this strip I have Ground, Battery positive and ignition switched positive off a 30amp relay (relay is tucked just above the strip).


I routed the cables out with the lines that go to the FEL. I put a 4 pin connector in right at the hydro connections so when I remove the blower and the quick hitch they all disconnect in the same place.


I'm also making individual connections at each motor so if I just want to disconnect just the blower and leave the quick hitch attached I can do that easily.


I was all over the map on what to choose for a controller. I wanted a single joystick but decided against it because of the additional relay's that would be needed would introduce another opportunity for failure. I ended up keeping it simple with two DPDT momentary switches that will not require relays and come with a rubber boot. I found a very small (going to be a pain to wire) project box that fits nicely on the cover at the base of the FEL control lever. Not the best looking but it put's the switches in a great ergonomic location so my left hand can stay on the wheel and the right can do all the controlling.


Obviously the fun part starts when I get the rest of the parts but it's a start.

Well if the hydraulic driven shoot freezes up I'm sure the electric powered one will do it even more often. I packed grease on top and under the lip on the shoot in the hopes it displaces some water. That whole setup on the Kubota blowers is really underwhelming to be honest. I would have expected a better design for that kind of money.

I hadn't read about mounting the actuator piston down but that makes sense/thanks.

Tooljunkie, thanks and you're right; the wiring is time consuming to do a clean job but reliability is key.

Re: Fabricating power chute control for a BX5450 snowblower

All my goodies arrived today so I got into it planning to make a little progress after work which turned into a lot of progress and wen't into the night.



I started by taking a 19mm socket and welding it to a small section of 3/4" electrical conduit. That conduit sleeves over the input shaft on the blower. I drilled out a hole so I could run a nut and bolt through the whole assembly and engage the screw that turns the chute. I also cut out a piece of 1/8" plate and drilled it to mount to the existing bolts for the back of the blowers screw mount.


I made a separate plate that mounted to the window motor so I could have complete control over the angle it would meet the other plate. I could have bent a piece but that would have made a weak spot so I opted for the two piece welded route.


Here's the bracket completed and mounted to the motor.


The linear actuator was super easy to do. The 4" stroke seems to be perfect.


Here it is as of now, fully functional. Tomorrow I'll pull it apart and give it a coat or 3 of that beautiful orange paint to finish it off. Once complete I'll post up a video of it in action but it's smoother and faster than I had expected so I'm a happy guy!

I won't judge your electrical knowledge if you don't judge my Microsoft paint skills

Just follow this and let me know if you have any questions. The blue and purple wires that cross over to the opposite pole of the switch is what reverses the current; hence reversing the motor.

To answer your ground/neg wire question, remember there really is no negative/ground when you are doing this. The black will see both negative and positive current depending on the position of the switch. Unlike most 12v stuff BOTH connections for the motor will go directly to the switch.

And don't worry about clogging my thread because your not clogging it. I post threads like this to help others. Forums have helped me so much over the years I do what I can to contribute back.

I used 16 for all my wiring (I buy it by the 50lb spool so I have plenty kicking around) but would be comfortable going as low as 20 gauge. 16 gauge is more than enough to supply both the power window motor and the actuator simultaneously. Just make sure your fuse amperage stay's below the safe operating range for the length and gauge you choose. A 10 amp fuse will cover you with 16 gauge wire nicely.

Got everything all painted up and put together. Works great! Made a little video of it in action and some updates on my cab if any of you are interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iKcAp-0ieg

RCW said:

Watched your video.

Again, very nice!!

Click to expand...

Thank you sir!