B7100 with a slight mechanical issue.

Apogee · Feb 13, 2015

Links to the videos?

Grumpy560 · Feb 13, 2015

Apogee said:
Links to the videos?

I have no idea how to link the videos here. Look up B7100 D950 swap and you will find it. I have only 2 videos on YouTube.

Apogee · Feb 13, 2015

To link, just copy the link when viewing in youtube and paste in your message.

I searched your username on youtube and couldn't find them. That's why I came back and posted about the links.

I'll look again.

Cool that you posted them!

S

Apogee · Feb 13, 2015

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owo_BZfb99Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylcnqY9etDs

That rod knock in the first vid makes me cringe and it STILL ran good!!!!

Grumpy560 · Feb 14, 2015

Apogee said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owo_BZfb99Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylcnqY9etDs

That rod knock in the first vid makes me cringe and it STILL ran good!!!!

Hey Steve, Thanks for posting my videos for me. My replacement engine sounds much better.

II'll take another video sometime after I get the engine back and have everything bolted together again.

Wolfman, Thanks for the part # and link. I've ordered most of the parts I need except for the tackometer drive cable.

Grumpy560 · Feb 23, 2015

Alright, went and picked up the engine last Thursday. I'll start by mentioning that it was not welded and here's why. When the guy was out here looking at my engine, I asked him if it could be welded and he said yes but that's not what he's going to do.

This pin hole was caused by porosity in the casting, it happens. It didn't take him long to find the other end of the pin hole once he had the 2 oil journal plugs removed.

The pin hole on the back of the block was only 2mm away from the outer edge. The other end of the hole was just in front of the rear oil journal plug. The pin hole was thoroughly cleaned out and packed with marine TeX, a liquid substance commonly used on inboard boat engines.

After the rear pin hole was packed, he closed off the rear portion of the oil journal with marine TeX. Oil will never reach that area again so I was told.

Total cost for me = 1 case of Budweiser

I've been down with a cold since I picked the engine up and didn't do much of anything until Sunday afternoon. I had my fingers crossed that this would be it and after spending much of my evening putting it all back together again I fired the engine up and everything is fine. I've run it 7 times for about 20 seconds each and there's not one drop of oil anywhere.

Tomorrow I'm going to modify the B1550 stop solenoid bracket and get that mounted and out of the way.

OldeEnglish · Feb 23, 2015

You can't beat that price with a stick! That's an interesting product they used. I checked out their web site and it definitely looks like it could come in handy for some things, especially plastic. What I didn't see anywhere is temperature limitations and chemical compatibilities....

I did see it's not rated for potable (drinking) water...

Casting flaws happen sometimes, not too often in my world but it happens.

Glad to hear everything is working out for you, you guys are very talented and always amaze me that you can retrofit that motor without blinking an eye

Apogee · Feb 23, 2015

Excellent news (and price)!

Didn't think about MarineTex. That's good stuff! You can literally apply that stuff under water and it will stick. Once cured it's impervious to just about everything. It's industrial epoxy...

I was starting to get nervous that there was more bad news. I like the filling the oil gallery idea. That was essentially what I was getting at when I mentioned machining a plug. Perfect!

Cool that the project is back on track!

Get better soon man. I've been sick for 6 weeks and it's finally almost gone. This crud as been an a** kicker!

Best,

Steve

Grumpy560 · Feb 24, 2015

Got it, I removed the F2100 stop solenoid and bracket because of fitment issues, it just wouldn't allow the side panel to be installed without it being cut up and I was not about to do that.

I found one from a B1550 that could work with a few simple modifications and I was right.

All I had to do was shorten the B1550 bracket about 1-3/4 inches. I had to modify the air cleaner bracket so the stop solenoid could slide in behind it on the right side.

I put everything back together once again and put 12V to the solenoid. After a few minor adjustments the stop solenoid was working perfectly. The engine side panel went on without any issue at all.

I really need to start on the electrical system since I'll be making an entirely new wiring harness from scratch.

Grumpy560 · Mar 3, 2015

Got going on the new wiring harness over the weekend. Since I'm adding additional gauges and some extra LED lighting I decided to go with a fuse box instead of the single inline fuses. I'll have to find one that's weather resistant. Not much I can do on that part for now.

I've got the wheels off so I can begin prep work on the chassis. I hope to have it painted and some parts back on within the next couple of weeks. Since this is not going to be a show piece I've decided to use Rustoleum night tide gloss on the chassis. My dad will use the spray gun on the fenders, hood and all other sheet metal that gets painted orange.

Here's where I'm at right now and a long way to go.....................................

ShaunBlake · Mar 3, 2015

Grumpy560 said:
Got going on the new wiring harness over the weekend. Since I'm adding additional gauges and some extra LED lighting I decided to go with a fuse box instead of the single inline fuses. I'll have to find one that's weather resistant...

I can't imagine what gauges you would be adding that would need extra fusing, and I know the LEDs pull much lower amperage than almost anything else on the tractor except perhaps the oil light.

That being said, I do like the idea of a fuse block... but weather resistant? I don't know. Please make a mental note to post info on it if you discover such a device, and I'll do the same.

Grumpy560 said:
... Since this is not going to be a show piece ...

Humph! I'm very skeptical about that statement!

Russell King · Mar 3, 2015

You may be able to find a fuse block that meets your needs on one of these sites

http://www.haywireinc.com/index.cfm

This site has the single fuse holders with a cover (weatherproof?)
http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Circuit-Protection/Fuse-Holders

ShaunRH · Mar 4, 2015

Grumpy560 said:
Got going on the new wiring harness over the weekend. Since I'm adding additional gauges and some extra LED lighting I decided to go with a fuse box instead of the single inline fuses. I'll have to find one that's weather resistant. Not much I can do on that part for now.

Marine grade fusebox, every time!

Inexpensive:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131382737613

Really Nice:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-Systems-5026-ST-Blade-Fuse-Block-with-12-Circuits-/131434356188?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item1e9a191ddc&vxp=mtr

Cadillac Stuff:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Black-8-Gang-Marine-Boat-Caravan-BLUE-LED-Rocker-Switch-Panel-Fuses-/181567884598?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2a464a0d36&vxp=mtr

Apogee · Mar 5, 2015

Grumpy560 said:
I've got the wheels off so I can begin prep work on the chassis. I hope to have it painted and some parts back on within the next couple of weeks. Since this is not going to be a show piece I've decided to use Rustoleum night tide gloss on the chassis. My dad will use the spray gun on the fenders, hood and all other sheet metal that gets painted orange.

Here's where I'm at right now and a long way to go.....................................

Steve,

Unless you are a fan of that particular color I know there are other rattle can colors that are supposed to be a closer match to the original Kubota color. I have a hunch the charcoal might lack a bit of blue compared to Kubota blue but one would need to check to be sure. One never knows...:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17472&highlight=kubota+blue

I'd be looking at a quart of auto paint or just buying from Kubota. These guys have learned this lesson already:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15758&highlight=kubota+paint

Finally, if you're going to spray the last post has some good info. However, if I was going to go to the hassle I'd just buy the right paint instead of winging it like he did. That being said, it does sound like it turned out well:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15536&highlight=kubota+paint

"Since this is not going to be a show piece"

Uh huh...

If it were me, after this much work, I wouldn't skimp on the paint. The rattle can pain won't hold up nearly as well over the long run. Just buy a quart of the right stuff from Kubota and a cheap spray gun from Home Depot or Harbor Freight and be done with it. It will be the right color, last much longer and turn out better.

(yeah I know, I'm a pain in the a**)

Just my $0.02...

Steve

HickoryNut · Mar 5, 2015

I had a very good dream about restoring my B7100. Reading this thread and watching it progress gives me a great deal of respect and admiration for Grumpy560.

It also convinced me to just go buy a new tractor. Make no mistake, I would be going the same route Grumpy if I had the time and patience.....lord knows I wish I did!

ShaunRH · Mar 5, 2015

Eh, if he doesn't care about original color matching, go with STYLE!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Gallon-Metallic-Blue-Acrylic-Enamel-Automotive-Paint-/231496652895?hash=item35e646985f&item=231496652895&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

Of course, I'm now expecting all the slings and arrows from the purist crowd... LOL!

Apogee · Mar 5, 2015

One source for Kubota blue paint. I haven't used their stuff though so can't vouch for it first-hand:

http://www.tractorpartsinc.com/kubota_enamel_tractor_paint_1065_ctg.htm

Messick's has original Kubota. The part numbers are listed in the chart:

http://www.messicks.com/Articles/ku_paint.aspx

Finally, the guy in this thread used XO Rust from True Value. Apparently it is True Value's equivalent to Rustoleum. He lists the paint codes for the proper blue color. He also mentions mixing acrylic hardener into it to make it last longer similar to what the guy did with Rustoleum in my previous post. I guess "winging it" works well if one has an idea of what they're doing

:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1237

Woodswalker · Mar 5, 2015

Great to see you have hung in there and solved the problem with some beer. As the owner of a great-running old B7100, I have been following your posts with great interest. Am very interested in your impressions of the improved performance once you get the little tank doing some work.
Nice job on the mods and pictures.

Grumpy560 · Mar 7, 2015

This so called prep work sure is time consuming. I've sanded, cleaned and primed for 11 hours today and only got 9 parts done. I spent a few hours last night doing prep work on the chassis.

I removed the brake and clutch rods to give me more space to work with. There was too much surface rust on the rear PTO arms so I removed them. Tomorrow I'll remove the clutch and brake pedals a long with the rear PTO shield.

I've got a friend who is going to help me out with prep work on the chassis tomorrow while I continue working on the smaller parts that have already been removed.

Im appreciative of all the replies and suggestions concerning the painting process. I know that a rattle can paint job will not be as good or last as long as the dealer supplied paint would but I also know that this tractor is going to get a ton of scratches the first time I drive it out in the back forty to push down small trees and large amounts of under brush. In fact, I have absolutely no intent to put any of my new decals on this time because I know I'm gonna work the heck out of this thing once its up and going so why not save those hard to find decals and good paint till next time.

The only reason I've gone this far with prep work is to get rid of the heavy surface rust, in the end its still going to look and run a thousand times better than it did when I bought it.

Here's today's progress.............................

D2Cat · Mar 7, 2015

Grumpy560, you've got more patience then a man ought to pray for! After all the work you've done, and I don't care how much you think it is going to get scratched up, I would not even think of a rattle can paint job. No way!!

I couldn't paint the inside of a paper sack that nobody will see!

But when I did my L305 I talked to a good friend who is a retired body man. He gave me a half hour primer (study class, not paint) on how to do it. I bought some hardner from local hardware store and mixed a guesstimate of 10% for both colors. It came out much better then I though I could do, and I'd do it again in a New York second.

Painting all that work with spray cans would be like putting sand in the oil!!!

Don't do it.

You talking about saving the decals 'tell next time. I had a buddy who thought like that. He'd buy a new hand saw then put it up on a peg board and continue using his old one. Same with a drill, save it for a while and use this old one. On and on...... They sold all his new stuff in an estate sale!!!!

Live life while you got it.

B7100 with a slight mechanical issue.

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