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Be aware that the 7100 alternator only puts out about 130w with the engine up to speed. I would size the lights for 90w or less so you still have juice left (round 3.3A @ 12v) to recharge the battery.

It's from a 1947 John Deere model B tractor.

I have an amp gauge on mine, it puts out 9A at 14v when the engine speed is up so around 125 watts. Tim

I just eyeballed mine and it went right back in. Tim

A friend of mine just went from a 3200 to the 4700 I've driven both on rough ground and the 4700 is so much smoother riding and more stable it's not even a contest. My friend has 40 acres and does quite a bit of mowing in rough areas so the new MX is a real boon. Tim

In Iowa they sell Rim Guard it's heavier then water an will not rust the rims, might want to check it out.

You'll need to pull the hood, radiator, alternator housing, pulleys, drop the front end down then pull the timing cover. I replaced the front crank seal and repacked the alternator bearings (they were getting dry) while I was at it. Tim

Mine was doing the same thing (750hrs) first I tried the sender and no luck the front cam plug was missing. Tim

You might want to install a catch tank at the bottom of the vent tube and recycle some of that oil :)

125A alternator is around 2.3 hp to run when fully loaded, so that's a big hit unless you really need the juice.

I have an older (1979) B7100 and it has the 2 wire alternator they work find. It puts out 9A @ 14v through the regulator when the battery is down and drops off to around 2A when the battery is charged.

I have a B7100D with the OEM top link, the body is 14" and fully collapsed it is around 19" to the pin centers, the pin diameter is 3/4" Tim

I'd pull the injectors hook the lines up to them and see if they are firing. If not then it's a fuel delivery issue or pump problem if they are and you have good compression and glow plugs then look at the cam and see what it's doing.

Yes I got the 7100 because I can now mow my field with the belly mower up @ 5" and it has 4wd + AG tires so I'll never get stuck. It's also small enough to mow around my house and trees so seems like the perfect combination for my needs.

My mowing situation requires a belly mower a rear mount is good if you are just mowing open areas but if you have to go around stuff then a belly mower is much easier to use. Nothing wrong with a lawn tractor for just mowing if you can fine a diesel all the better, gas lawn tractors are thirsty.

Here's the business end of the shaft all back together now and working good.

I have a low hours B7100, cold (30 degrees or warmer) I glow it for 20 seconds and it pops right off almost no cranking just enough to turn it over, when the engine is hot no glow plugs needed it starts immediately, this is the way a diesel should starts when it has good compression, clean...

If the engine fails to start after it's warmed up, say you run it for 15 minutes then shut if off for 30 seconds and it fails to restart they I'd say you have a compression problem.

Yes I've read that to, I don't think this one had seen grease in a while even tho it has a zerk fitting. I think the only thing that has saved it was the low hrs on the tractor (750) and always being in a garage.

The spline was made as a separate piece and then welded to the end of the shaft. If you look at the photo you can see the weld. And yeah I've read about that spline and not being able to source it, hopefully this one lasts another 30 years. I'll get a photo of the spline and put it up, stay...