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Big hammers around injection pumps always make me cringe.:eek:

If one tanks runs dry that will be the tank the engine sucks from. Path of least resistance. There is a shut off valve at the bottom of both tanks, just ahead of back wheel. Shut off the empty tank and get fuel flowing from the full tank. Purge the air and all should be fine.

Did you find the problem/solution?

For the fuse-able link to get warm indicates it is ok. It also indicates that you have a high amp draw down stream from the link meaning you may have a starter that has seized or bad solenoid.you should be able to by-pass the whole starting circuit and apply power directly to the starter and see...

Is this a new machine to you? From what you describe it sounds like a normal RTV900. They are not a hot rod. But, we need more info.

I am quite sure the cylinder on those units is not rebuild-able.

I'm betting you still have gum sticking up the injection pump.

The oil in the cylinder will leak past the piston and the loader will settle. Because the rod displaces a certain volume it will not settle to the bottom but it will settle. It is straight physics and I know from experience.

You need to swap lift hoses for curl hoses to see if it is the valve spool. If the lift still settles then you have an internal seal leak. Unlike previously stated if you have a leaky seal in a lift cylinder it will settle no matter what.

You are correct. That is the purpose of the rubber flapper (duckbill). It expells the dust and then closes. Everything is working normal.

Get yourself a bottle of a real good fuel conditioner and dose your engine 3 time normal rate. I think you had a stuck injector which can be caused by a multitude of things. Dose the fuel and work it hard for as long as you can. I wouldn't be spending money on injectors yet.

A stuck injector will hammer like a a loose con rod. Does it still knock on the level and after it has sat? You can check injectors by loosening each injector line one at a time to see if they all cause a rpm drop.

Sure hope its a frost plug! I would prepare for the worst. Very seldom do frost plugs actually save the block.:eek:

The shut off solenoid may well be working but we need to know if it will shut off with the manual shut off.

There is a manual shut off on the infection pump. Did you try it? More detailed info is needed here.

Is not the V2203 an IDI engine? The V2403 in my L5740 is IDI.

Re: DPF Issues?

Engine is baked. Even if it runs after you put oil back in the damage is done and damage will be severe. Sorry. They need to replace the engine.

It has to be a leak as the only connection between the engine and tranny is a drive shaft so it can be being burnt in the engine.

Your 'guy at work' is referring to cavitation which occurs when small bubbles of steam form against the liner or even the block and over time erode out enough material to form a hole. Although it is most common with sleeved engines it can happen with parent bore engines to. It is a bigger...