Recent content by zuric

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I used an impact wrench..worked well. What is the procedure for holding the crank to re-torque that nut to the high preload needed ? I have a L2050, but the action needed is the same.

Get your hands on some Plastiguage, doesn't cost much. Tells you what your final clearance will be. A micrometer will tell you the journal size instantly..surprised the 'machine shop' didn't pass that info on to you.

D2s' welding pic is good stuff. I use couplers, tho..hollow, threaded pieces. Would be best to turn the old rod down to a slip fit, if possible. Lacking that, chamfer, tack, line up the coupling, and burn rod ! The beauty of it all is..you are no longer forced to buy proprietary...read...

Buy a tie rod coupler, weld it on the shaft. thread in the new matching tie rod end, job done. Just be sure the tie rod matches the socket. Measure diameter of socket top and bottom, or the existing tapered tie rod . MOOG has a nice calculator, plug in your figures, gives selection available...

North Idaho Wolfman may have the parts you need. I got tired of the nebulous answers/numbers I kept seeing, found a deal on a B7100 complete gear box steering column. Matching mounting holes up, it appears identical. Now I need to get time to bolt it on and see if actually it WILL work...

Yeah..like the 55 bucks the local Bumper to Bumper charged me for a power steering hose for my Work Bull..36" long, 1/4", standard fitting. The BEST option...look up Surplus Center on the web. That hose was about ten bucks from them. Guess who gets my business now ? That includes auto parts...

Any machine shop could make one out of "oilite" .... sintered bronze material. Even your buddy/neighbor with a lathe... A bit of measuring and research really ought to turn up an existing bushing ready made..a rather common method of holding that front pilot shaft.

Sorry it took so long. Hopefully, there actually is a picture of the spring, and position it occupies in the scheme of things...Item 025, by the way...

Well..it is item '25' of the fuel camshaft group of the B6000 parts manual. I just spent 30 minutes attempting to get the image here from my computer, with no luck at all. Will try again tomorrow night. As an official 'old guy'..I have no idea whatsoever how to make a computer do much of...

The governor spring can be stretched or just not hooked up ,gotta reach around in the case to get to it, on my L2050. Looking at the parts list, the B6000 spring arrangement looks pretty much similar. Can be a bugger to get apart..and really easy to damage it in the process.

Not to beat an old horse...but one wonders about a brand new tractor having water in the hydraulics. My opinion..only..is that water had to enter the system by being poured in.. The brand new seals/safeguards on outdoor equipment last for many years...or at least...they USED to !

"The hydraulic fluid was compromised by water". My opinion is; You have a damaged tractor..to the tune of many thousands of dollars. Water ran through hydraulic pumps takes life off that pump. I would refuse the tractor, were I spending my money.

Thanks, Wolfman !..Been hesitant to tear into it because of the parts problem. Is that (low cost 4 u) affiliated with this Orange Talk site ?

Yeah, HP varies from 35-40 depending on source. Continental Z-134, gas engine. Tractor has straight front axle, to carry the heavy duty FEL..rated 2900 pounds of lift. Rated as an industrial model, much heavier then the Massey 35's I have. Years ago, I rebuilt another T0-35 Z134, and a friend...