I bought a used l2900 used a year ago and it had filled tires. I just wanted to share what I learned trying to do research on what is the best fluid to use. Unfortunately I think the answer is it really depends on you situation. I am not an expert but this spring I popped a tube on my rear tire and the cacl started leaking out. I was in my driveway so I rolled the tractor so the leak was the highest point on the wheel and got a floor jack on it so I did not lose much. Then I went researching what I should do to fix it. Luckily my hole was on the same side of the tire as the valve stem so I took the tire off and laid it on the driveway with the valve stem and hole up. I found some plastic tubing that fit fairly well over the valve stem and stuck the other end of the tube in the shop vac with duct tape “Adapt” from 3/8 of an inch to 3 inch. Was it the most efficient no. I had about 30 gallons so I emptied the shop vac several times into 5 gallon buckets. Got most of it out maybe a gallon left in the inner tube. Took the tire off the rim pulled out the tube and ordered a new tube. My rim had some rust and definitely some rot around the valve stem. Most thing I have read the claim that is do to the cacl leaking over time. I completely disagree. The tractor I have is about 25 years old and it was probably the original tires and rims. From what I saw with the old inner tube and the new inner tube is that you do not get a great seal between the inner tube and the rim. A tubeless tire has a rubber valve stem that creates and airtight (water tight) seal. The tube valve stem is slightly smaller then the hole so it fits. This will allow moisture to get trapped there and over 25 years it rots. A similar issue was rust on the inside of the rim. The rust was only on an inside ridge around the rim and you could tell by looking at it that it was where the inner tube would not touch and would have the same problem of trapping air and moisture. This rust wasn’t rotted like the valve stem hole I assume since it only got attacked on one side where the valve stem hole has three sides exposed. I sanded, painted and welded to reinforce the valve stem hole. I put a new inner tube in and loaded up the area around the valve stem with rubber safe grease. My guess is that as the tire rolls that inner tube valve stem may move slightly over time just do to the tire flexing so I am not sure if that will help or not.
What to fill rear tires with
- Thread starter Dippybird
- Start date
Then the question was what to put back in the tire. I liked the idea of the beet juice. Do I think it would have prevented the rust that I had in my rim, no. I had an inner tube and the beet juice would be in the inner tube not protecting the rim from rust (I believe it has rust inhibitors in it). My tire was also not a tubeless tire so it needed an inner tube regardless. I am sure a lot of newer tractors have tubeless tires which may make your situation different. I liked the idea of the beat juice because if it leaks out it wouldn’t be as bad as the cacl. I called around and the beet juice was definitely more expensive but the bigger problem was that places I called would not sell me the liquid. I had to bring the tire there and have them fill it or pay more to have them come fill it on site. I don’t have another machine and I could definitely picture myself getting in to trouble getting a 450lb tire that I was filled with beet juice off of my trailer and back on the tractor especially with my sloped driveway. The other issue was as much as it seems like the beet juice is safer for the environment I also had 30 gallons of cacl that I had sucked out of the tire. In researching how to get rid of that the answer pretty much was dump it in the ground. So back in the tire it went. I had a tiny 110v pump from one of those little indoor table top rock waterfalls that I think are supposed to help you relax? I put a small tube on it that fit inside the valve stem. No adapters, no bleeding the air off just a small tube. I put the pump in the five gallon bucket and let it pump away. It probably took two plus hours for all 30 gallons and I am sure there are faster ways. I was outside splitting wood so it didn’t matter to me.
So what is the best liquid to but in your tires? I think it depends on your situation. I know people complain about the cacl rusting rims but I don’t think all of that information is true. If you fill a tubeless tire with cacl there is limited oxygen in the tire for the chemical reaction to occur and once the oxygen is used up it should not continue to rust. I have found several old timers during my web research who have said they have had cacl in the tractor tire without a tube since 1950 without any problem. Now is that true, it wouldn’t surprise me. I also bet the rims back then were thicker and better steal. I think if I was using this tractor for business and down time cost money I would look at the foam filled tires. Much more expensive but you don’t get a flat tire. My guess is that the foam also has the potential to trap moisture just like the inner tube. Ethylene glycol seams like it can by bad if it leaks, propylene glycol seems better but still not great. If you have a tubeless tire and I place to get the beet juice or are willing to pay someone maybe that is the best option. For me it was cacl. Just my opinion and experience.
I've also seen windshield washer fluid suggested. I do appreciate you sharing your story. It is definitely food for thought.
I can guarantee you spill Calcium Chloride solution on your lawn, you'll have a bare spot there for years. CACL is an excellent herbicide.
I don't run any fill in my M's. I have the cast centers so plenty of weight out back.
I don't run any fill in my M's. I have the cast centers so plenty of weight out back.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
If and that's a big IF, you could get all the cacl into the tube and never, ever have 1 drop touch the rim, then maybe, just maybe the rim would survive BUT and that's the big BUT.. there's zero chance of NOT getting a drop of cacl onto the rim. Once one drop of salt water touch the rim the rot begins...
The other problem is ,'hmm.... tire needs a bit of air' ,so you grab air hose and chuck, tire's NOT at 12 oclock and pfffts..air goes in, some saltwater sprays out. The timebomb starts ticking.. the rim WILL rot, you can't stop that....
Worse is getting a flat, say a thorn or nail. Grea, NOW the saltwater's inside, sloshing between the tire and tube so the rot happens faster.
I've yet to personally see any older rim not have cacl damage to it. If I need counter balance weight, I use the 'carryall' with a box full of concrete/steel.
The other problem is ,'hmm.... tire needs a bit of air' ,so you grab air hose and chuck, tire's NOT at 12 oclock and pfffts..air goes in, some saltwater sprays out. The timebomb starts ticking.. the rim WILL rot, you can't stop that....
Worse is getting a flat, say a thorn or nail. Grea, NOW the saltwater's inside, sloshing between the tire and tube so the rot happens faster.
I've yet to personally see any older rim not have cacl damage to it. If I need counter balance weight, I use the 'carryall' with a box full of concrete/steel.
i7win7
Well-known member
Equipment
BX2370, B2650 grapple, tree puller, trailer mover, 3 point hoist, mower, tiller
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
We use calcium chloride on our cement block walkways, parts of the driveways and even on the roof for ice damns some winters. Unfortunately around here it doesn’t prevent any weeds or grass from growing the following summer.
I filled mine with -40C windshield washer fluid and so far so good. Usually here in the fall Home Depot puts it on sale for close to half price. I also picked up a bleeder from Amazon to help. Keep an eye on your tire to make sure it doesn't come off the rim when you're letting the air out. I used a piece of an old water hose attached to a 5 gallon bucket and the gravity feed method to fill them. When it stops taking fluid just lower the bucket so it's down below the stem to let it burp.
I do appreciate that rims rust but some of you pictures have rot everywhere not just where cacl would be.
I am sure you are correct that not everyone needs filled tires. I am sure everyone will find things that work best for them. You are correct if I get a flat tire I will have salt water between the tube and the tire. I also will have a flat tire. If I don’t use the tractor and let it sit for a while that would not be good. Since I have an inner tube I have to take it off to fix it anyways so there is no reason not to clean up any salt that leaks.
i7win7
Well-known member
Equipment
BX2370, B2650 grapple, tree puller, trailer mover, 3 point hoist, mower, tiller
Tractors have sat outside 60+ years seldom moved. Pinhole leaks and wicking action of filled tires must have caused damage. Front tires, frames, fenders don't have this level of damage. Looking forward to the day they can be hauled to scrapyard - tired of mowing around these lawn ornaments.
CACL used as ice melter works but you need to remember it gets diluted with water (ice melting) to the point that the corrosive properties and killing ( of green plant) properties gets negated by the dillution.
In a tractor tire, if it leaks on the ground, the CACL is in a concentrated form and it kills any living plant it comes in contact with, not just the foliage but the roots as well.
I had that experience years ago in a hayfield. I was using a borrowed tractor and the rears were loaded with CACL and one of the tires suffered a failure (stick punctured the sidewall )and I left a 'dotted line' of CACL coming out of the field to the road. It killed the forage on that dotted line and it took a few years to regrow, Needless to say, I stay away from CACL loaded tires. In fact, I don't run loaded tires at all because I don't require the added weight. Heavy tires compact the soil and crush the hay plants and reduce yields and in my business, high yields equal more profit. On both my tractors, the cast center hubs provide plenty enough 'ballast' to offset the lift power of the loaders. Tires contain nothing but air...
Soil compaction is always an issue with heavy equipment. Why you see farmers going to tracked machines. With a tracked machine, soil compaction is drastically reduced because the per square inch of actual loading is a lot less.
In a tractor tire, if it leaks on the ground, the CACL is in a concentrated form and it kills any living plant it comes in contact with, not just the foliage but the roots as well.
I had that experience years ago in a hayfield. I was using a borrowed tractor and the rears were loaded with CACL and one of the tires suffered a failure (stick punctured the sidewall )and I left a 'dotted line' of CACL coming out of the field to the road. It killed the forage on that dotted line and it took a few years to regrow, Needless to say, I stay away from CACL loaded tires. In fact, I don't run loaded tires at all because I don't require the added weight. Heavy tires compact the soil and crush the hay plants and reduce yields and in my business, high yields equal more profit. On both my tractors, the cast center hubs provide plenty enough 'ballast' to offset the lift power of the loaders. Tires contain nothing but air...
Soil compaction is always an issue with heavy equipment. Why you see farmers going to tracked machines. With a tracked machine, soil compaction is drastically reduced because the per square inch of actual loading is a lot less.
Attachments
I think you are spot on with the weight comments. If you don’t need the weight don’t add it. Again I am not an expert just observations I have made. There also are several ways to add weight. The loaded tires adds weight and the center of gravity is low. The weight itself doesn’t add any additional stress statically to the tractor. Filled tires can be a pain to repair and it is not easy to remove or add the weight. The weights attached to the rear rims increase the center a gravity (compared to liquid ballast) but they can be added or removed as needed. They will only add additional stress to the rims and not the tractor. Unfortunately on my tractor according to the manual the limit for wheel weights is less than half what I can get with filled tires. The weights also cost more upfront but if you get punctures in you tire that may cancel out. 3pt hItch weight can be cheap and probably needs the least amount to counteract a fel since it is the furthest back. It also puts the most stress on the tractor because all of the weight has to go through the transmission/axle to get to the wheels. I think there are many options and people in different situations will have to figure out what is best for them.
I don’t doubt the soil compaction issue at all though I am not a farmer. I would assume that would come down to weight, tire pressure, tread pattern and maybe the tire stiffness.
I think windshield washer fluid may be a good compromise. It is not has heavy as others but you can buy it and do it yourself. Cheap and less corrosive. It is poisonus and I think it can actually cause you to go blind if you drink it unlike some other things people have told me would make me go blind that haven’t
. Inside a tire it really doesn’t matter though.This is an entertaining thought, "It is poisonous and I think it can actually cause you to go blind if you drink it"
There are several fluids used on equipment that can cause health issues if not used properly.
This is what calcium chloride will do. " If ingested, calcium chloride can lead to burns in the mouth and throat, excess thirst, vomiting, stomach pain, low blood pressure, and other possible severe health effects. It can also irritate skin by causing excessive dryness or desiccating moist skin."
Yea, probably be wise to not drink "the cool-aid".
There are several fluids used on equipment that can cause health issues if not used properly.
This is what calcium chloride will do. " If ingested, calcium chloride can lead to burns in the mouth and throat, excess thirst, vomiting, stomach pain, low blood pressure, and other possible severe health effects. It can also irritate skin by causing excessive dryness or desiccating moist skin."
Yea, probably be wise to not drink "the cool-aid".
i7win7
Well-known member
Equipment
BX2370, B2650 grapple, tree puller, trailer mover, 3 point hoist, mower, tiller
35% concentration Calcium Chloride liquid is widely used for dust control and road stabilization because the liquid is extremely hydroscopic. Calcium chloride attracts moisture from the air, keeping the road damp even under hot, dry conditions.
Source of quote: https://www.homedepot.com/p/55-Gal-...-Liquid-for-Dust-Control-1S-CACL-55/302134367
Once on steel it keeps absorbing moisture from the air - keeps on rusting
Also used in liquid salt trucks - reason northern cars rust out faster.
Source of quote: https://www.homedepot.com/p/55-Gal-...-Liquid-for-Dust-Control-1S-CACL-55/302134367
Once on steel it keeps absorbing moisture from the air - keeps on rusting
Also used in liquid salt trucks - reason northern cars rust out faster.
I think you would find windshield washer fluid just a little more dangerous than cacl. But I agree with you, it wouldn’t keep me from using it. You should look up the health hazards of sand. My parents should be in jail for letting me play in the stuff.
Very good point. You definitely want to keep the dry flakes in some sort of sealed container otherwise it will absorb moisture. They don’t use it a lot on roads in the northeast for melting ice because of the cost here. They usually use sodium chloride here just because it costs so much less. It is used a lot on walkways and parking lots here probably because it works better at lower temps. I believe they are about the same as far as rust on cars is concerned.