Weight on the 3 point.

[Missouribound]

I have a question and it relates to the weight on a three point attachment.
I have a B2320 and a 72" finish mower. If I do not use a loader or front weights, the front end will easily come up when I lift the mower, especially if accelerating and going up a hill with the mower raised.
I know that the 3 point can easily handle the weight and considerably more but the tractor can't handle more balance weight than that. So where is the weight on the 3 point? Is it primarily on the lifting arms with less. on the upper link.....is it evenly distributed?
This question came to mind as I had thought about a 3 point backhoe in the past. The tractor can lift it certainly.....but I've been cautioned about using a 3 point backhoe so I haven't gone that route.
But don't all 3 point attachments put additional stress on the top link and top of the 3 point?
When you put the stabilizers down on the backhoe.....wouldn't that help negate the stress on the top link?
I'm not pretending to know, and these aren't trick questions.
I'm just wondering if the stress of a 3 point backhoe is really more than any other equipment that has similar weight and gets "jostled" around during it's operation.?
Just throwing it out there......

 

[Russell King]

I assume that if the backhoe is on the 3PH it is the digging forces of the backhoe transferred into the upper link of the tractor that damages the tractor case.

 

[Showmedata]

the amount of load pulling on the top link is a function of the attachment weight and how far out the center of mass lies. So a mower creates a longer moment arm than a ballast box of the same weight, pulling harder on the top link.

I don't have a backhoe so I am not sure how the stabilizer feet affect the load transfer to the tractor.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I don't have a backhoe so I am not sure how the stabilizer feet affect the load transfer to the tractor.

Part of the fulcrum for the big ass lever.

Dan

 

[John D 2]

Factory backhoe's are not attached to the 3 point. They are attached to a sub frame that is connected to the frame of the tractor.
3 point arms are removed to allow the installation of the backhoe.

If you're talking about an aftermarket backhoe that connects to the tractor via 3 point, I'd be very leery of it.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I looked up the B2320... 23HP ,same as my BX23S, that HAS a FACTORY designed subframe mounted BH.
No way I'd put a 3PH BH on a basic compact tractor. It's amazing the amount of force a BH can produce and with a 3PH BH, that force can and goes into the 'top link', breaking your ride.
If you need a BH, consider renting a mini excavator for the job. Odds are it'll be cheaper than the 3PH BH and a LOT cheaper than repairing your tractor when damage happens.

 

[Slick75]

I have to side with everybody else on the backhoe. I've run B26s with detachable backhoes that hook to the frame and I can tell you that over the course of digging, you'll be putting a lot of extra stress on the top link with a 3-point backhoe. Even with the outriggers extended on a B26, you get into some hard ground or hooked under a root and you will stand your tractor up on its tail. Of course, when that happens, your natural instinct is to quickly dump the load. On a 3 -point, you just shock loaded the top link twice- once one direction, then the other. That's a lot more impact than hauling a bush hog or heavy disc around in most cases. No, its not going to break the first time, probably not the second, but I'm willing to be at some point you'd start seeing cracking around the padeyes where the top link attaches t the tractor. Start breaking that stuff and you're looking at major component repairs because those padeyes are poured as part of the casting.

Its hard to say that for me because I've been daydreaming about a 3-point backhoe off and on for years. But if I was to break my tractor over something like that, I might as well go buy another tractor. If you need a backhoe, go buy a backhoe. A new B26 will cost you around $45k, but if you keep an eye on the big rental stores (Sunbelt, United, etc), they sell them used for 1/3 of that with plenty of life left in them or you can find some great deals on auctions like Ritchie Brothers. You can pick them up even cheaper if you don't mind getting older models that might need some work. And you'd still come out cheaper than buying a 3-point and breaking your tractor.