Got about 950 hours on my D905 engine. Manual says 800 hours, Engine sounds good. What should I do?
Valve Adjustment For BX2200
- Thread starter manualf150
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the valves may or may not need adjustment. some do and others never seem to change. if it was mine i would check the adjustment. kubota recomends the check for a reason.....al
I spoke to a Kubota mechanic that has the service manual to my tractor and the D905 engine. He wrote down the proceedure.
Does this look right:
Valve Clearance Adjustment on D905:
Important: The valve clearance must be checked and adjusted when the engine is cold.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover and the glow plugs.
2. Align the "1TC" mark on the flywheel and alignment mark on the rear end plate so that the Number 1 piston comes to the compression top dead center.
3. Check the following valve clearance marked with a star using a feeler gauge.
Hand drawn chart:
Cylinder 1: Intake and Exhaust Valve
Cylinder 2: Exhaust Valve
Cylinder 3: Intake Valve
4. If the clearance is not within the factory specifications, adjust with the adjusting screw.
5. Then turn the flywheel 6.28 rad. (360 degrees), and align the "1TC" mark on the fly wheel and alignment mark on the rear end plate so that the Number 1 piston comes to the overlap position.
6. Check the following valve clearance marked with a star using a feeler gauge.
Hand drawn chart:
Cylinder 1: Already adjusted from first step.
Cylinder 2: Intake Valve.
Cylinder 3: Exhaust Valve.
7. If the clearance is not with factory specifications, adjust with the adjusting screw.
Factory intake and exhaust valve clearance (Cold):
0.145 mm to 0.185 mm
0.00571 in to 0.00728 in
Note:
- The sequence of the cylinder numbers is given as Number 1, Number 2, and Number 3 starting from the gear case side.
- After adjusting the valve clearance, secure the adjusting screw with the lock nut.
Does this sound right?
Also, what is the gear case side? Is it the side that is in front of the tractor or toward the rear of the tractor by the radiator and fan? I'm sure I'd figure it out when searching for the markings... but I'd like to ask, just in case.
Do I really need to remove the glow plugs? Or does that just aid in turning the engine to get TDC?
Does this look right:
Valve Clearance Adjustment on D905:
Important: The valve clearance must be checked and adjusted when the engine is cold.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover and the glow plugs.
2. Align the "1TC" mark on the flywheel and alignment mark on the rear end plate so that the Number 1 piston comes to the compression top dead center.
3. Check the following valve clearance marked with a star using a feeler gauge.
Hand drawn chart:
Cylinder 1: Intake and Exhaust Valve
Cylinder 2: Exhaust Valve
Cylinder 3: Intake Valve
4. If the clearance is not within the factory specifications, adjust with the adjusting screw.
5. Then turn the flywheel 6.28 rad. (360 degrees), and align the "1TC" mark on the fly wheel and alignment mark on the rear end plate so that the Number 1 piston comes to the overlap position.
6. Check the following valve clearance marked with a star using a feeler gauge.
Hand drawn chart:
Cylinder 1: Already adjusted from first step.
Cylinder 2: Intake Valve.
Cylinder 3: Exhaust Valve.
7. If the clearance is not with factory specifications, adjust with the adjusting screw.
Factory intake and exhaust valve clearance (Cold):
0.145 mm to 0.185 mm
0.00571 in to 0.00728 in
Note:
- The sequence of the cylinder numbers is given as Number 1, Number 2, and Number 3 starting from the gear case side.
- After adjusting the valve clearance, secure the adjusting screw with the lock nut.
Does this sound right?
Also, what is the gear case side? Is it the side that is in front of the tractor or toward the rear of the tractor by the radiator and fan? I'm sure I'd figure it out when searching for the markings... but I'd like to ask, just in case.
Do I really need to remove the glow plugs? Or does that just aid in turning the engine to get TDC?
Sounds right to me. The "gear case side" would be the end that your fan/water pump is on. On my B20, that's the front of the tractor. You don't need to remove the glow plugs -- as you said, just makes it easier to turn by hand. I turn mine with the front crank pulley. I doubt that your valves need any adjustment, so be wary of deciding to adjust anything. A worthwhile exercise to check them though.
Well, let me ask this. Do these engine's valve clearances tend to tighten or loosen? I know most engines they tend to go loose and cause valve chatter.
However, on my Kawasaki EX250R motorcycle, the valves do the opposite. They tighten the clearance as the hours/miles rack up.
However, on my Kawasaki EX250R motorcycle, the valves do the opposite. They tighten the clearance as the hours/miles rack up.
My experience --- they tend to hold as set unless you pull the head for some reason or do something else to affect the valve train geometry. Just my experience -----
Well, I did the valve adjustment according to specifications above. The tractor runs a lot better.
It was, for the most part, very easy to do.
It was, for the most part, very easy to do.
1 - IN - 0.004" <--- Worst
1 - EX - 0.005"
2 - IN - 0.006"
2 - EX - 0.007"
3 - IN - 0.005"
3 - EX - 0.007"
I adjusted them to 0.006" across the board. Right in the middle of Kubota's specs.
1 - EX - 0.005"
2 - IN - 0.006"
2 - EX - 0.007"
3 - IN - 0.005"
3 - EX - 0.007"
I adjusted them to 0.006" across the board. Right in the middle of Kubota's specs.
Thank you very much! I have yet to to mine as I don't have enough hours on the machine yet. Nice to see you documented each valve, very impressive
Yeah, roughly in the 800-1000 hour range is a good time to check. I think at 950 hours, it was the best time to check.Thank you very much! I have yet to to mine as I don't have enough hours on the machine yet. Nice to see you documented each valve, very impressive
It does run noticable smoother, and it seems to produce a tad less smoke at start up.