Torque value for banjo bolts on pump

[littleorangetractor]

Hi all, I have a leaking banjo bolt on the pressure port of the hydraulic pump. A new copper washer was installed but I cant find a torque value listed in the B6000 WSM. Thanks for your help

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Hi all, I have a leaking banjo bolt on the pressure port of the hydraulic pump. A new copper washer was installed but I cant find a torque value listed in the B6000 WSM. Thanks for your help

They're really isn't a torque valve assigned to those banjo bolts, I looked, it's probably because of the various sealing surfaces.
Good rule to use is snug then a little more, if it leakes go a little more, but don't over do it as the pump is only aluminum, the copper washers usually seal with little force applied to them.

 

[littleorangetractor]

Thanks Wolfman.
I’ll try again to stop the leak tightening the bolt only bit by bit. I do wish there was a - Do Not Exceed - torque value so I dont strip out another pump

 

[Fordtech86]

I will offer my 2 cents and take it for what it’s worth. Disclaimer is I’m not a tractor tech but did a quick search through a few known banjo bolts with copper washers on a 6.0 Ford. Banjo bolts into aluminum housing was 28 ft pounds and into cast iron was 32 ft pounds. Just throwing that out there if you are looking for a number. Many variables though.

If the fitting the bolt goes through have been overtighten there is a chance the fitting is damaged and new washers won’t seal.

No warranty expressed or implied

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

A new copper washer was installed

This may or may not be the issue, did you use 2 coppers washers?
As that it needs, one on each side of the fitting.

 

[littleorangetractor]

Fordtech86
Thanks for searching out that torque number. It gives me a target -do not exceed- value to go by.
lot

 

[Fordtech86]

Fordtech86
Thanks for searching out that torque number. It gives me a target -do not exceed- value to go by.
lot

No problem but take it for what it is though! Like wolfman says it doesn’t take much, but too much can make it a bigger problem

 

[BruceP]

You only mentioned ONE copper washer. Do not forget that a banjo-fitting needs a copper washer on BOTH sides of it to achieve seal.

Judging from you asking about torque-spec.... I assume you know that the bolt which passes thru the banjo-fitting is HOLLOW (weak) and easily overtorqued. (deformed)

HINT: The pure-copper washers DO NOT need to be replaced each time if you ANNEAL (soften) them before reuse. This was very common practice when head-gaskets were pure copper.

Every time the washer is crushed by bolt, it is work-hardened.

Anneal: Apply gentle heat to specific temperature.... then allow to cool slowly. Any propane torch will do.

 

[littleorangetractor]

Wolfman, I used 2 copper washers; one on each side of the banjo bolt. I will carefully check the fitting surfaces for any rough spots.
The relief valve settings need to be checked. When I got the tractor, I found the relief setting cranked up to maximum pressure! It has been backed off but not enough to keep the pump from blowing up.

 

[littleorangetractor]

BruceP
Thanks for your input. The first time the pump was replaced, I annealed the original copper washers and there was no leak. But soon after, it started dripping again so I tightened it a bit more. Last week, it started leaking a lot and the banjo bolt had backed off again where I could easily rotate the banjo fitting. After tightening it up again, a little bit tighter, next day the pump cracked open when I was moving too much snow at once. Shouldnt the pressure relief valve protect the pump from overpressure? The crack in the case started at the high pressure port threads and extended to the back edge of the pump. Another $600 up in smoke

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yea you have a relief valve issue, doesn't sound like it's working right at all.

How did you adjust the relief valve?

 

[littleorangetractor]

The engine would stall out when the loader cylinders reached end of travel. I had just bought the tractor so I was running the engine well below maximum rated RPM. Once I located the relief valve on the loader control, I found it was cranked up tight to maximum where it wasnt limiting the pressure at all! Although I didnt have a pressure gauge to measure the actual relief pressure, I backed the valve off to where the end of travel would not stall out the engine.
Yea, I know... the pressure gauge is on order to set the pressure properly to spec (1200 psi).
Thanks again for your time in sorting out this problem.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The engine would stall out when the loader cylinders reached end of travel. I had just bought the tractor so I was running the engine well below maximum rated RPM. Once I located the relief valve on the loader control, I found it was cranked up tight to maximum where it wasnt limiting the pressure at all! Although I didnt have a pressure gauge to measure the actual relief pressure, I backed the valve off to where the end of travel would not stall out the engine.
Yea, I know... the pressure gauge is on order to set the pressure properly to spec (1200 psi).
Thanks again for your time in sorting out this problem.

How many lines are there coming off the loader valve minus the 4 for the loader cylinders?

 

[littleorangetractor]

There are three; one from the oil pump high pressure port, one (PB)to the transmission for three point hitch supply, and one to the top of the transmission fitting (T).

 

[Berry]

Good morning; it was great to see this post and I see it was over a year ago. I'm having the same problem with the slight leak and the banjo bolt coming loose. Glad someone found a torque setting, my pump is aluminium so I have a concern there. I notice you found 1200 PSI as a setting and I'm sure mine is 1700 PSI.
MY question is and I hope you are still on the forum but what was your end result and how did you achieve it? Was the relief setting the key, that might explain the leak but what about the banjo bolt coming loose?