Too much play? Shim or not to shim on upper JBar grapple claws?

100AkerWood

Member

Equipment
2021 Kubota MX5400 1973 Kubota B6000 1979 MF245 J-Bar Grapple, Rake & Blade
Mar 2, 2021
36
34
18
Lee County AL
I have a new 66 GRG JBar double claw grapple. I noticed the extended piston end to the top claws has a lot of slop in the claws. I installed two (BAW) washers on the inside of the pin (on each inner side of the piston pivot) and one on the outside of the pivot grapple...It could take another so it is symmetrical.

My question is: Should there be any play or wobble in the upper claws or should the claw-to-piston be rock solid? I’m assuming solid is better to avoid bending piston shaft or should reverse logic be applied and wobble/slop avoids bending piston shafts?

I’ve been grappling with what is right or wrong with my logic...help me out here...

FYI: The loose pin made me look at the grapple a lot closer now that I have had it a few weeks. The pin came out drop grappling boulder in a pile.

Note excessive space between piston yoke and piston. Thanks

4A89DA09-FC30-44CA-B898-1B4DC8E64748.jpeg
Thanks
 

foobert

Active member

Equipment
BX2380
Mar 25, 2021
112
111
43
Washington
I think you should correct the errant pin and not sweat it — you are over thinking it.

A washer’s worth of slop is probably a good thing. It’s certainly not “bend the piston shaft” territory.
 

Motion

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota MX5100HST/FEL
Aug 17, 2020
518
286
63
Mandeville Louisiana
I agree with foobert regarding "slop". Personally I'm not a fan of headless pins with retaining groves, when I have equipment that comes with those, I convert to clevis with a head, washers and a spilt/cotter pin of the correct size. From your picture the grapple already needs some TLC, you must be getting a running start at those boulders