T1760 clicks but won't turn

jw10

New member

Equipment
T1760
Jun 4, 2023
5
2
3
Winnipeg
Hi. I have T1760 and for past two years I've been having an issue when starting it. It clicks everytime but doesn't crank. It will start every 6-9 time. Sometimes I would drain the battery and after charging it and with battery charger set to start it would start right away. Two years ago I was told it's a solenoid, so I replaced it. On the weekend I removed starter and had it tested. Was told it was broken so I replaced it but the tractor is doing same think. What can I check/test to see what else can it be?
 

kubotafreak

Well-known member

Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Sep 20, 2018
1,022
378
83
Arkansas, US
Hold key to crank and jiggle the pto, seat safety, and brake lock switches. One of them is probably got a week/bad connection. Could also be the actual key switch but more than likely a safety switch or bad power wire. All of which can easily be tested with a multimeter.
 

ve9aa

Well-known member

Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
Apr 11, 2021
1,202
980
113
NB, Canada
Sounds to me you were given poor advice (sorry) and I personally would've checked BOTH ENDS of both battery cables.
I bet it's a poor ground (or the like)

Don't just look at it. Clean it.

Could also be an internally corroded battery wire.
 

jw10

New member

Equipment
T1760
Jun 4, 2023
5
2
3
Winnipeg
I tested and clean battery connection before, did it again. See attached pic. I got new battery last year, it has 12.46V now. I will charge it for a few hours at 2amp
 

Attachments

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,936
1,135
113
Austin, Texas
I tested and clean battery connection before, did it again. See attached pic. I got new battery last year, it has 12.46V now. I will charge it for a few hours at 2amp
I assume that the solenoid is attached to the starter and was actually replaced twice now and was part of the new starter.

Please describe the click in more detail. Is it one hard click and nothing else except drawing amps but no spin? Or is it a chattering click until you release the key? Does the starter try to turn the engine at all and just slow turns when this happens?

Why is the battery going dead? Do you just keep trying over and over or does it go dead quickly?

How many cold cranking amps does the battery have? How old is the battery? Does it help if you use a jump start from car or other type of jump start pack? Can you use jumper cables directly to the starter terminal to see what that shows?

Can you safely jump the starter terminals to bypass the tractor’s wiring and see what happens (but don’t do this if you’re not confident in your safety)?

Can you take the battery out and have it load tested?
 

Torinodan

Active member

Equipment
T1600, G4200, G5200, Ford 2810, 1974 Wheel Horse C100
Oct 14, 2021
188
85
28
Fayetteville GA
Don't know if the T1760 has the same combination box that the T1600 does. They can go bad as well as the corroded cables and other bad connections/switches. Mine finally died and it would click over the relays that were inside the combo box but the starter wouldn't spin. I installed a helper relay to get me by till it finally died.
Not a cheap little box btw.
 

lmichael

Active member

Equipment
Kubota G2160
Apr 23, 2021
578
226
43
Rockford IL area
Likely one of the many safety switches or the ign switch itself. Easiest and most reliable solution is to add a helper relay. I fought and fought with mine until someone (either here or another forum) said it's common. I cleaned cables, even went so far as to try testing with bypassed safeties, and new ign sw and still no love. Added helper relay and it fires right up every time
 
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jw10

New member

Equipment
T1760
Jun 4, 2023
5
2
3
Winnipeg
I assume that the solenoid is attached to the starter and was actually replaced twice now and was part of the new starter.

Please describe the click in more detail. Is it one hard click and nothing else except drawing amps but no spin? Or is it a chattering click until you release the key? Does the starter try to turn the engine at all and just slow turns when this happens?

Why is the battery going dead? Do you just keep trying over and over or does it go dead quickly?

How many cold cranking amps does the battery have? How old is the battery? Does it help if you use a jump start from car or other type of jump start pack? Can you use jumper cables directly to the starter terminal to see what that shows?

Can you safely jump the starter terminals to bypass the tractor’s wiring and see what happens (but don’t do this if you’re not confident in your safety)?

Can you take the battery out and have it load tested?
Yes. Solenoid replaced twice. The click is short, check this video https://youtube.com/shorts/OfBrb9DurYw?feature=share I bought the battery last year, it's 350 cold crank. It seems to start easier when I use jump start pack. I will try to jump start starter terminal after work today.
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,936
1,135
113
Austin, Texas
I don’t know what your battery is supposed to be but 350 CCA may not be enough. But I will let someone else that knows more about your tractor and engine than I do (which is pretty easy to do!)

I would recommend going ahead with the helper relay and see if that resolves the issue - if you don’t need it then it doesn’t hurt anything except for your wallet for a few dollars.
 
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ve9aa

Well-known member

Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
Apr 11, 2021
1,202
980
113
NB, Canada
This certainly doesn't look "great". Might not be the issue, but if you had the capability to cut back and reinstall a fresh lug, that might be an easy thing to try.

I'm not holding it in my hand and seeing it up close so I am not certain if I am looking at good ol' dirt, or some green (here and there)_ from copper oxide which is an inhibitor to current flow. I do note at least one (maybe 2) broken strands. Yes, not the end of the world, but how many more are broken?

Not trying to be a jerk here. Trying to help you.
1686184938126.png
 

jw10

New member

Equipment
T1760
Jun 4, 2023
5
2
3
Winnipeg
I think I found an issue. I cleaned inside and connection on the ignition switch and it's been starting 100 % since. Before I cleaned it. I was getting 6V on the solenoid switch connection, now I'm getting close to 10V.
 
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