ROPS Rattle

Old_Paint

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Strangely enough, I see nuts welded to the stationary part of the ROPS on my LX. The darn thing rattles and is VERY annoying when doing anything like quick direction changes, rough terrain, etc. I can't help but believe that nut was welded there for a thumbscrew or something to stop that rattle. Does anyone have the part number for that thumb screw? Looks like it's probably M8/1.25 but I haven't actually checked it with a bolt.
 

DustyRusty

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Screw a bolt into the nut, and you don't need anything fancy. Its a tractor, not a Rolls Royce that you expect to have a smooth and quiet ride in. After the first 30 minutes on the tractor, you won't hear anything other than the noise of the engine.
 

Matt Ellerbee

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I don’t believe that it is metric. I replaced some on our F mowers at work and they took a 3/8” I believe. Also on our MX5100, it was the same, I think. But definitely not metric, as I sourced everything from our bolt bins.
 

Old_Paint

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Much thanks B737. Funny, but did ya notice that the ONE tractor model that isn't listed in that is the LX series? You'd really have to see how bad my luck is to believe it, because if I ordered that, and my tractor isn't in the list, it probably won't fit and I'd be the stupid one for getting something that doesn't fit. By the time Messick's gets done with shipping, that part's gonna cost more like $30. But I will enquire about the part number or name (now that I know what it's called) at my local dealer when they finally get the store put back together. Last week's tornadoes were not kind to them.

Probably a really nice M series up on the scratch-n-dent table over there. They showed me photos of it laying on its side.

Do I recognize a big ol' GE Turbofan in your avatar? Bet ya wish your B had the power that thing puts out.

:ROFLMAO:
 

B737

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It fit my B2601, I believe GP outdoors used it on his LX2610 (or his b2601?) as well.

Yes, the GE90 makes me deeply happy :) I love that thing. Especially in pairs. I wish I could have one at home, but dont have $30 million dollars saved up for one yet.

I can measure the thread pitch on mine tomorrow and report back.
 
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Old_Paint

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I don’t believe that it is metric. I replaced some on our F mowers at work and they took a 3/8” I believe. Also on our MX5100, it was the same, I think. But definitely not metric, as I sourced everything from our bolt bins.
This would surprise me. So far, ZERO bolts I have touched on the LX have not been metric. And I mean ZERO. In keeping with that tradition, I even used metric bolts when I made my step braces. I don't like mixing my metric and SAE tools. PITA to have a wrench that ALMOST fits, but either won't go on or rounds the corners off a bolt. I know most of the common cross fits. I owned a VW for too many years to not know the ones that are interchangeable. In fact, I owned it long enough to remember when metric tools were considered specialty dealer tools and cost about 4x what SAE sizes did. Had to learn the equivalent sizes pretty quick because I was a dirt poor college student.
 

Old_Paint

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Much thanks B737. Funny, but did ya notice that the ONE tractor model that isn't listed in that is the LX series? You'd really have to see how bad my luck is to believe it, because if I ordered that, and my tractor isn't in the list, it probably won't fit and I'd be the stupid one for getting something that doesn't fit. By the time Messick's gets done with shipping, that part's gonna cost more like $30. But I will enquire about the part number or name (now that I know what it's called) at my local dealer when they finally get the store put back together. Last week's tornadoes were not kind to them.

Probably a really nice M series up on the scratch-n-dent table over there. They showed me photos of it laying on its side.

Do I recognize a big ol' GE Turbofan in your avatar? Bet ya wish your B had the power that thing puts out.

:ROFLMAO:
Thanks again. Might give it a try, then, or order something similar from Amazon if I can get thread size/pitch. I"m thinking M8-1.25. Some don't understand that bolts left in the weather rust and seize. I don't have a means to get it out of the weather yet, but I'm workin on that too.

I'd like to be able to say anything about GE gives me a warm fuzzy. But not gonna happen. Probably not a good idea to open that can of worms here, though.
 

Matt Ellerbee

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This would surprise me. So far, ZERO bolts I have touched on the LX have not been metric. And I mean ZERO. In keeping with that tradition, I even used metric bolts when I made my step braces. I don't like mixing my metric and SAE tools. PITA to have a wrench that ALMOST fits, but either won't go on or rounds the corners off a bolt. I know most of the common cross fits. I owned a VW for too many years to not know the ones that are interchangeable. In fact, I owned it long enough to remember when metric tools were considered specialty dealer tools and cost about 4x what SAE sizes did. Had to learn the equivalent sizes pretty quick because I was a dirt poor college student.
What I thought when I was looking at the MX, I was leveling a gravel parking lot and listening to that damn rattle, driving me nuts. Got back to the shop, and figured I’d never find a metric bolt...
 

Old_Paint

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Screw a bolt into the nut, and you don't need anything fancy. Its a tractor, not a Rolls Royce that you expect to have a smooth and quiet ride in. After the first 30 minutes on the tractor, you won't hear anything other than the noise of the engine.
Not really looking for a Rolls Royce effect, nor anything close to smooth and quiet. Just quietER. No nagging rattle in both ears, regardless of engine speed or what I'm running. I can even hear it over the chipper with earplugs in.

You were the first to reply, and had it been more constructive, I'd have said thank you. But I won't say thank you.
 

dirtydeed

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Hardware store. Here's what I used (sadly, can't remember which it was....so get two of each)

ROPS Jamb bolts. Thread size metric 10x1.5mm, M 10x1.25 ..about an inch long is all you need. I stuck a piece of electrical tape on the rops under the bolt. Quiet as a church mouse.
IMG_1505.JPG
 
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nbryan

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Strangely enough, I see nuts welded to the stationary part of the ROPS on my LX. The darn thing rattles and is VERY annoying when doing anything like quick direction changes, rough terrain, etc. I can't help but believe that nut was welded there for a thumbscrew or something to stop that rattle. Does anyone have the part number for that thumb screw? Looks like it's probably M8/1.25 but I haven't actually checked it with a bolt.
I found a bolt with nut for the job somewhere in a junk box.
 

leveraddict

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My BX came with those bolts. I have to wonder why your LX didnt come with them? Kubota saving money again? I mean....there is a place for them on the rops! Special order accesory?
 

Old_Paint

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My BX came with those bolts. I have to wonder why your LX didnt come with them? Kubota saving money again? I mean....there is a place for them on the rops! Special order accesory?
THAT was my point.
 

Old_Paint

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Hardware store. Here's what I used (sadly, can't remember which it was....so get two of each)

ROPS Jamb bolts. Thread size metric 10x1.5mm, M 10x1.25 ..about an inch long is all you need. I stuck a piece of electrical tape on the rops under the bolt. Quiet as a church mouse. View attachment 57361
Thanks for the size check. I may have a few M10's around. Maybe weld a small bar or rod across the tops of the bolts for a t-handle so I can take 'em out if I'm running ROPS-less and not lose them. Did/do your ROPS pins have a silly little spring on them to stop them from rattling? That's the only purpose I could decipher being the reason for the springs. The day I got my tractor, I decided to put the ROPS down to see how heavy it is. Didn't notice the spring, so when I pulled the hairpin, it went flying across the yard. Took a minute to find it. Put my hand over the second one and caught it. When I put it back together, I put the springs on the pins before inserting them. Less chance of losing them.

While VERY close to 3/6-18 thread bolts, which can probably be forced in, I figured it was metric. Everything else I've touched on this tractor so far has been. Don't mind metric, just don't like a blend like most 'American' cars have on them. Have to drag out two sets of wrenches to work on stuff. VERY annoying when a 14mm and a 5/8 bolt are side by side where some engineering boundary was set up.

I like that seat, too. Looks very comfy. Probably bad to take naps while using the tractor, though, which is probably what I'd try to do in something that comfortable.

Also gotta ask how high that roll up door is, and how much clearance you have over your ROPS. I don't want the headache of having to flip the ROPS up and down every time I go through the shed door. Your B-2650 and my LX2610 should be close to the same height, but I think I have much larger tires on my LX. Had to swap holes on the 3PH lift arms so they'd go low enough to use my box blade correctly. They're nearly tall enough to rub the fenders. Not more than an inch or so from tread to fender. Bad habit of grabbing the fender to look back got corrected VERY quickly when some mud hit my knuckles. I took it as a sign that was all the good luck I was going to have with that. I had to make a conscious effort to use the grab handles, but got used to it. Better than losing fingers or a hand.
 

dirtydeed

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Thanks for the size check. I may have a few M10's around. Maybe weld a small bar or rod across the tops of the bolts for a t-handle so I can take 'em out if I'm running ROPS-less and not lose them. Did/do your ROPS pins have a silly little spring on them to stop them from rattling? That's the only purpose I could decipher being the reason for the springs. The day I got my tractor, I decided to put the ROPS down to see how heavy it is. Didn't notice the spring, so when I pulled the hairpin, it went flying across the yard. Took a minute to find it. Put my hand over the second one and caught it. When I put it back together, I put the springs on the pins before inserting them. Less chance of losing them.

While VERY close to 3/6-18 thread bolts, which can probably be forced in, I figured it was metric. Everything else I've touched on this tractor so far has been. Don't mind metric, just don't like a blend like most 'American' cars have on them. Have to drag out two sets of wrenches to work on stuff. VERY annoying when a 14mm and a 5/8 bolt are side by side where some engineering boundary was set up.

I like that seat, too. Looks very comfy. Probably bad to take naps while using the tractor, though, which is probably what I'd try to do in something that comfortable.

Also gotta ask how high that roll up door is, and how much clearance you have over your ROPS. I don't want the headache of having to flip the ROPS up and down every time I go through the shed door. Your B-2650 and my LX2610 should be close to the same height, but I think I have much larger tires on my LX. Had to swap holes on the 3PH lift arms so they'd go low enough to use my box blade correctly. They're nearly tall enough to rub the fenders. Not more than an inch or so from tread to fender. Bad habit of grabbing the fender to look back got corrected VERY quickly when some mud hit my knuckles. I took it as a sign that was all the good luck I was going to have with that. I had to make a conscious effort to use the grab handles, but got used to it. Better than losing fingers or a hand.
Here's a closeup of the flange bolt. It's about 3/4" long and is one of two thread sizes I posted above. I just can't remember which one I used. I just keep an adjustable wrench in my tractor toolbox to loosen them when I need to lower the ROPS. I snug them back down so they don't get lost.

Flange Bolt.JPG


Agree with others that the ROPS knobs should be included on these machines. My BX23 had them.

Yes, my ROPS pins have the spring on them...but are on the inside like you like you did.

The seat is a Black Talon that I got from Rural King. There was a thread here on OTT that showed them on sale for $49 shipped. I ordered it that day (should have ordered 3). The next day they were no longer available and I think now they retail for $249. So, they either wanted to dump them or they mismarked the price. It's very comfortable and is wrapped in denier instead of vinyl. The only issue that I have with it (entirely my fault) is when I get lazy and don't feel like spinning the seat to use the hoe. I simply kneel on the seat and reach over the back to dig...the seat has a high back so my ribs take a beating when I do that. Again, my fault entirely.

Garage door is 9x8' (so 8 ft tall). Top of my ROPS is just slightly over 87". I clear the door by about 2-2 1/2". However, I still look up every time for some reason. Likely because I got stuck (jammed) my old BX23 under another garage door opening.
 
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Old_Paint

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Hmmm, so my LX probably ain't going through an 8' door. Well, not without lowering the ROPS every time. Won't take but ONCE to forget it to be a very expensive lesson. That adds a bit to the shed pricing.
 

dirtydeed

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Hmmm, so my LX probably ain't going through an 8' door. Well, not without lowering the ROPS every time. Won't take but ONCE to forget it to be a very expensive lesson. That adds a bit to the shed pricing.
You're probably even taller with the larger tires/wheels. So, I would depend on the door. If you had a rollup door it should work. Standard garage door, maybe/maybe not.

I will say that my other garage door (same size) has a much higher opening because its not connected to a garage door opener. The opening on that is probably closer to 94". If the garage door opener had a longer reach, I could pull the door back more giving it more headroom.

If your building the shed you can do\ any kind of door (even sliding/hinged) door you wanted. I'd be confident you could get it to work.
 

Old_Paint

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Looking like most of the "shed-in-a-box" folks don't want to take much off for self-installers. Pricing pole barns (Pole and frame), metal, and getting the materials and doing it myself, it all comes out to about the same pricing. Funny that, huh? Albeit, looks like latest Big Box lumber prices are gonna blow the budget a bit.

Just measured, and the LX is 90 inches to the top of the ROPS measuring to the ground next to the PTO shaft. Maybe not as tall as I thought, but taller than the OM says and too tall to go under anything less than 8 foot opening safely. As you pointed out, an OH door is gonna have some of the bottom panel still hanging down, unless I finagle a little extra track to fully retract it to a horizontal position. Maybe get a track for a 9 footer, trim the vertical portion down to an 8 footer, and then that will give the door a little farther to roll up and get outta the way. Or, just get a roll-up. They're pricy, but they get outta the way. I'm not opposed to sliders, either. After all, it's a barn, not the Taj Mahal. Anything will be better than the 'bota sitting out in the rain.

Would really like to get some ideas from what others have done in the 24x36 range. Don't want to spend that kinda money and wind up with something that's useless.
 

Russell King

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When buying the shed or the garage door they can put in a slightly taller track so the garage door is closer to the ceiling and does not block part of the opening.

If you install an opener that can cause a problem but I used a Liftmaster 8500 that mounts onto the torsional bar and bolts to the wall instead of the ceiling mounted version.