R4 or R3 Tires.... Anyone Run R3's On an L2501?

Oliver

Active member

Equipment
L2501, JD 3520
Feb 2, 2011
526
120
43
Preston County, WV
I'm about to buy a L2501 or CK2610 (leaning L2501 now) and have been pondering what tires to put on it. Titan's new R14's look interesting but aren't available on an L yet. The vast majority of L's I see have R4's on them with R1 Ag's on the remaining and I'm just wondering why that is?

My use will be a combination of grapple, loader, snow removal with the bucket, rear blade, and small fields to cut down once or twice a year with a rotary cutter.

I had R4's then Turfs on the same tractor and for what I do the Turfs actually seemed to perform better overall. They rode nicer and gave better traction on grass, snow and ice, and at least as good in dirt. The better traction was especially apparent on a particular grass side slope where the rear my tractor with R4's would often slip but after changing to R3's never did.
The Turfs did not do as well in mud, and having 4 ply sidewalls not as stiff so I did puff the fronts up a little more when doing heavy loader and grapple use. In my experience having two flats from punctures from the same broken off metal fence post (I finally found it and pounded it down!) I had one on an R4 the second was on a Turf. Still R4's have to be more puncture resistant than R3's.

Just curious for anyone else with experience using both R4's and Turfs what is your preference and why?
 

SDT

Well-known member

Equipment
multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
3,084
923
113
SE, IN
I'm about to buy a L2501 or CK2610 (leaning L2501 now) and have been pondering what tires to put on it. Titan's new R14's look interesting but aren't available on an L yet. The vast majority of L's I see have R4's on them with R1 Ag's on the remaining and I'm just wondering why that is?

My use will be a combination of grapple, loader, snow removal with the bucket, rear blade, and small fields to cut down once or twice a year with a rotary cutter.

I had R4's then Turfs on the same tractor and for what I do the Turfs actually seemed to perform better overall. They rode nicer and gave better traction on grass, snow and ice, and at least as good in dirt. The better traction was especially apparent on a particular grass side slope where the rear my tractor with R4's would often slip but after changing to R3's never did.
The Turfs did not do as well in mud, and having 4 ply sidewalls not as stiff so I did puff the fronts up a little more when doing heavy loader and grapple use. In my experience having two flats from punctures from the same broken off metal fence post (I finally found it and pounded it down!) I had one on an R4 the second was on a Turf. Still R4's have to be more puncture resistant than R3's.

Just curious for anyone else with experience using both R4's and Turfs what is your preference and why?
As I'm sure you know, tire choice is dependent upon what you intend to do with your tractor and is always somewhat of a compromise. This is what I find intriguing about the forthcoming R14T design. It seeks to combine the best features of R-1s, R-4s and Turfs into a single compromise design.

Another potential option, though I do not know if it is available for the 2501 or 2610, is the rarely seen "bar" design. Never common, I thought they were no longer available until a few months ago when I saw a set on a new Kubota (special order) at my dealer. Salesman told me that they are still available but rarely sold.

I have these on my B1750HSD, bought new in 1993, and am well pleased. They are better in snow than any other design and are easy on turf.

Google B1750 or B2150 and bar tires for photos.

SDT
 

Newlyme

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M4900 w/loader, finish mower, tiller, auger, rake. BX24 w/loader, backhoe
May 27, 2015
632
62
28
Nelson Ohio USA
SDT said it right. It all depends on what you are going to do with your tractor.
After getting stuck in the front yard cutting grass recently with R4's, (rear tires worn). I looked into R1's.
Load capability is greatly reduced with R1's. I will be sticking with R4's on my next tire purchase. Loader work is important to me.
 

Muzzy

Member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650HSDC
Feb 13, 2019
274
4
18
WNY
Have R4's on the L2501, good fit for loader work, bush hogging and even pushing snow. B2601 has R3's, real good for cutting grass, and good on ice and snow. Many complain about R4's in the mud, well they are heck of alot better than R3's in mud or wet grass. R4's are definitely better suited for Loader work.
The R14's are definitely interesting..
 
Last edited:

Oliver

Active member

Equipment
L2501, JD 3520
Feb 2, 2011
526
120
43
Preston County, WV
....Many complain about R4's in the mud, well they are heck of alot better than R3's in mud or wet grass....
Our experience definitely differs on grass, wet or dry, R4's weren't too bad going forward and backward but seemed to have little grip latterly such as on the side of a hill. Also on wet, soft, grass they left more of an imprint and dug in making turns. But I found R4's better in mud because R3's tend to give one revolution of traction then load up to become slicks, dry dirt wasn't a problem though.
Regarding the R14's those are the tires I want but the Kubota dealer told me they weren't available on an L but that was from just looking on "build my Kubota" site not making a call. My inquiry to Goodyear/Titan didn't generate a response.
 

Oliver

Active member

Equipment
L2501, JD 3520
Feb 2, 2011
526
120
43
Preston County, WV
maybe check out this video before you pull the trigger...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9EVpXjzHsY

I was surprised. Test was done with BX23, so YMMV.

Thanks I hadn't seen that video, it makes the case for R4's and maybe I'll go that way but just watching the video it my slight critic of it are:

That the tractor with R4's makes a little more torque (982 lb to stall) than the tractor with R3's which max'd at 930 lb. Shouldn't change the result though.

But the test procedure was also changed because the R3 tractor was run without diff lock engaged until the left rear and right front spun, then without shifting the tractor even slightly ran again with the diff lock, on the previously created slick spots. I'm guessing that was why it pulled fewer pounds with the diff lock engaged because its max of 2165# was the first pull no slick spots, no diff lock.

The R4 tractor was only run once.... with diff lock and benefiting by not starting on slick spots. I don't know if R3's would make it to 3000# but I'd interested to see the results had they both been done the same way.
 

Oliver

Active member

Equipment
L2501, JD 3520
Feb 2, 2011
526
120
43
Preston County, WV
Oliver, what tire did you decide on
Most likely R4's, I just asked two dealers to price me an L2501 with R4's, QA loader and bucket, rod indicator, 3rd function valve, and telescoping stabilizers.
First quote is $19, 700, waiting on the other dealer's quote.