Non hardening gasket sealant for oil drain plug?

sheepfarmer

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My Troy bilt rototiller needs its gear oil changed, looks disgusting. I suppose after 26 years its not surprising, but the manual says "rarely needs changing". :eek: I read the directions in the manual, which generally are wonderfully clear, as far as drain it and went off and collected 90W gear oil, came home and read the next paragraph about replacing the drain plug, and it says clean the threads and put "non hardening gasket sealant" on the threads and replace. Judging from the many sealants I see in the forum, there must be a lot to choose from, and I am regrettably clueless. Although maybe not as clueless as the guys I sometimes encounter at the auto parts store.

Can someone suggest something appropriate and roughly about how much goes on the threads?

If that is what was put on it 26 years ago, am I going to have to do something special to get the bolt undone?

Thanks!
 

Russell King

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Permatex number two. Smallest tube you can buy will be many times more than you need.

Just apply enough on the threads to fill the valleys along the length of the plug. Then just screw it in. If there is a flat under the head of the plug put a little around it also for good measure.


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SRG

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Or, take the drain plug with you to the hardware or auto parts store, and get an oil drain plug washer/gasket.
 

SidecarFlip

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All the above plus pipe dope that you can get at Menards (on I94 in Lansing)...lol You can get the Permatex there too.

I need to put a new tine shaft seal in mine, glad you reminded me.:D (Horse)

Should come right out. Mine has a square head on it, I use an adjustable open end wrench. Let it drain a couple hours, that stuff will be thick.
 
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sheepfarmer

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Thanks guys! I end up with partial tubes of this and that in the basement, none of which look promising by the time I need something again.
 

D2Cat

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If you have a partial tube of the Permatex #2 (or other product that will work), even if it won't come out the tip, just poke a nail in the side and get some out. You only need a blob about half the size of a green pea!

Use what you have, even if it means the rest of the tube is trash next time. Save from adding to the collection!
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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You can also use teflon tape or teflon pipe dope. ;)
 

sheepfarmer

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Eureka! NIW hit on something I actually have in the basement! I wondered about that, but after the dire warnings about not using on hydraulic fittings, I have been more careful about throwing it on everything. Permatex sounded familiar and indeed I unearthed a tube of it, but it was the 1a hardening :( .

Funny what one will go through to avoid driving in to town. Especially since snow is in the forecast.

My next quest will be to find an air filter and foam precleaner for this elderly Briggs engine. Went to wash the precleaner, and it wasn't there :eek:. While I was still working I used to send this stuff out to get serviced by a small engine repair place nearby, and they must have forgotten or lost it, sigh. I was billed for an airfilter, but not a precleaner, and I didn't notice.

Thank you.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Eureka! NIW hit on something I actually have in the basement! I wondered about that, but after the dire warnings about not using on hydraulic fittings, I have been more careful about throwing it on everything.
No pump or filter in that setup so your safe. :D
 

Michael In Tennessee

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My next quest will be to find an air filter and foam precleaner for this elderly Briggs engine. Went to wash the precleaner, and it wasn't there :eek:. While I was still working I used to send this stuff out to get serviced by a small engine repair place nearby, and they must have forgotten or lost it, sigh. I was billed for an airfilter, but not a precleaner, and I didn't notice.

Thank you.
Post pictures of the air cleaner/carb area. Perhaps we can be of help and I'm curious if is the same as mine. My tiller just has a filter, no pre filter, but maybe I should have one. Getting the filter was easy on amazon or the bay. I had to replace the carb on mine as well. Not bad for $100 + a $20 Chinese carb though.
 

sheepfarmer

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The teflon tape worked great!

Good thing, I think I get to do the whole thing over again, manual said 90w gear oil or 140 w, and I got 90W marine gear oil, that being all the napa store had.. I think it must have had 140 in it, and despite letting it drip for a couple hours, it overflowedthe check plug hole with much lessthan than the recommended amount. I ran it a bit to distribute it, and it still overflowed an uggly sludge. I guess the new 90 and the old oil don't play nicely together. :(

Michael I have the engine model, and some similar ones are out there, old Briggs engine.

8https://www.partselect.com/Models/130297-1665-01/Sections/Air-Cleaner-Groups/?ModelID=5409847&ModelNum=130297-1665-01&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=130&Selected=130297-2208-01_WW_2.gif&Position=2&mfg=Briggs%20and%20Stratton&Type=Engine&Mark=2

I know mine had a foam prefilter, there are bits of it stuck to the metal can, not sure which of these would work, but I thought I'd call now that it is Monday. Thanks!
 

Michael In Tennessee

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Oops! I have a Tecumseh engine on mine. Completely different. I thought all older Troybilts had the Tecumseh unless it was repowered. How old is yours anyway? Mine is mid-1980s.
 

sheepfarmer

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I bought mine in 1984. It is a Pony. Has been very reliable. The engine started on about the 4th pull (battery dead) after not being used for 3 or 4 years. Sucked out the old gas first, replaced with new, and off she went. The owners manual is the best I've ever seen. Could do belt retensioning no problem from pictures. Very chatty. Comments on patience needed on draining oil etc.