need rototiller part

Roadworthy

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It might help if you described the ends and stated the approximate length required. For example my rototiller shaft is female PTO shaft on both ends. I don't recall the length offhand.
 

heyitspete

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It might help if you described the ends and stated the approximate length required. For example my rototiller shaft is female PTO shaft on both ends. I don't recall the length offhand.
Good idea. Here are some photos. One end of the shaft is just a regular pto connector. The other end has an adapter welded on to connect to a spline that connects to the rototiller. That end has 13 spline teeth and a key channel. I think you can see that end clearly in some of the photos.
I won't be able to answer back if you reply for a day or two because I have eye surgery in the morning. Thanks in advance
 

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Roadworthy

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Your pictures seem to indicate you already HAVE the driveline but it's broken. Take it to a driveline shop, they can probably repair or replace it. Out West here I'd take it to Six States Distributors. I have no idea where you're located or what's handy to you.
 

GreensvilleJay

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It looks like the thinwall 'tube' ripped away, maybe 'something' made the tiller stop REAL QUICK ? !!
Any machine shop should be able to weld a new 'tube' to the 'ends'.
 
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heyitspete

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bowling green, KY
Your pictures seem to indicate you already HAVE the driveline but it's broken. Take it to a driveline shop, they can probably repair or replace it. Out West here I'd take it to Six States Distributors. I have no idea where you're located or what's handy to you.
thank!. never heard of a driveline shop but i will see if i can locate one here in south cental ky.
 

heyitspete

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It looks like the thinwall 'tube' ripped away, maybe 'something' made the tiller stop REAL QUICK ? !!
Any machine shop should be able to weld a new 'tube' to the 'ends'.
yeah. all of a sudden -- notill!
It looks like the thinwall 'tube' ripped away, maybe 'something' made the tiller stop REAL QUICK ? !!
Any machine shop should be able to weld a new 'tube' to the 'ends'.
i was surprised at how thin the tubing was. a standard pto staft would probably worked just as well but probably cost more. maybe a heavier tube could be used. i don't weld but maybe 1/4 in could replace the thin walled original.
 

PoTreeBoy

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yeah. all of a sudden -- notill!

i was surprised at how thin the tubing was. a standard pto staft would probably worked just as well but probably cost more. maybe a heavier tube could be used. i don't weld but maybe 1/4 in could replace the thin walled original.
That may have saved you a major failure. You'd probably be surprised how thin an automobile/truck drive shaft is. A hot rod shop can point you to a drive shaft shop.

In the meantime, you need to find your shear pin or slip clutch and get it working right before you wreck the gearbox or drive, if you haven't already.
 

heyitspete

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bowling green, KY
That may have saved you a major failure. You'd probably be surprised how thin an automobile/truck drive shaft is. A hot rod shop can point you to a drive shaft shop.

In the meantime, you need to find your shear pin or slip clutch and get it working right before you wreck the gearbox or drive, if you haven't already.
there is no sheer pin or slip clutch. it goes from pto to shaft to gearbox. maybe the thin metal IS the sheer pin! i bought this rototiller used about 5 years ago and there was already a split in the shaft,but it lasted 5 years that way. i only use it to rototill a few acres so maybe that's why it lasted as long as it did
 

NCL4701

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there is no sheer pin or slip clutch. it goes from pto to shaft to gearbox. maybe the thin metal IS the sheer pin! i bought this rototiller used about 5 years ago and there was already a split in the shaft,but it lasted 5 years that way. i only use it to rototill a few acres so maybe that's why it lasted as long as it did
If there’s no slip clutch or shear pin you really need to add a slip clutch in the driveline to keep from tearing up your tractor, tiller, or both. This time the thin, already compromised tube was the weakest thing in the system. Next time might be something a lot worse. The slip clutch does take up space in the system so you’d need to account for that in the new shaft length if you add one.

Not saying this is sized right for your application but in case you don’t know what I’m referring to, this is an example:


The folks that sell these things can assist with proper sizing for your application. If you have a good dealership you deal with, that’s not a bad place to start with the slip clutch.
 

PoTreeBoy

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If there’s no slip clutch or shear pin you really need to add a slip clutch in the driveline to keep from tearing up your tractor, tiller, or both. This time the thin, already compromised tube was the weakest thing in the system. Next time might be something a lot worse. The slip clutch does take up space in the system so you’d need to account for that in the new shaft length if you add one.

Not saying this is sized right for your application but in case you don’t know what I’m referring to, this is an example:


The folks that sell these things can assist with proper sizing for your application. If you have a good dealership you deal with, that’s not a bad place to start with the slip clutch.
That would work on the tractor end if there is enough room for it. Finding one to fit the tiller end spline might be tough. Or you might get the machine shop to cut the yoke and weld the clutch in between while they're making a drive shaft.
 

torch

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there is no sheer pin or slip clutch. it goes from pto to shaft to gearbox.
Maybe check for a shear pin after the gearbox? It seems highly unlikely that anybody would make a PTO powered attachment without some sort of protection.
 
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