Can anyone help me on how to add some rear worklights on a 2022 LX2610 Cab front loader. It has the wire/female plug ran to back corners, and there is a switch (hole) but I couldn't find any open connectors around the dash for the switch. Jfyi - Kubota wanted ($280 PER LIGHT) and $78 for the switch.
LX2610 Cab front loader 2022 rear work lights
- Thread starter snowpusher
- Start date
Donystoy
Active member
Equipment
LX2610HSDCC, B/H, Loader, plus numerous other attachments. B7200 sold
Surprised that your tractor did not come with all the cab lights as mine did. I remember asking about them when I ordered it last summer and was told that they were all included.
Here is a picture of the wiring from my WSM. Not sure if it will be of any help or not.
Here is a picture of the wiring from my WSM. Not sure if it will be of any help or not.
Attachments
Thanks. I guess Ill take off the dash & headliner to follow the wires to find a place to connect a switch.
So weird to me. They've got the dash hole, covered with a rubber face plate, and the plug-ins for rear lights. You'd think the connector would just be right there. Plug in switch, plug in lights.... and go.
To avoid the high summer temperatures, I often start my tractor work before the sun rises. Therefore I need lights forward and aft. I found that the OEM Kubota work lights were useless for my use. I ordered two 75 watt LED light bars from Amazon, $50.
Rather than deal with the installed, light guage wiring, I ended up routing power myself. Mounted two switched on dash, then 14 ga power fore and aft to the new lamps. I used the supplied ground in the OEM harness, a white/black wire of 14 ga. On the exterior, the only visible change are the two cables carrying power are within a 1/4” plastic conduit on the right ROPS riser.
Those LED light bars really do the trick, and are way less expensive.
Rather than deal with the installed, light guage wiring, I ended up routing power myself. Mounted two switched on dash, then 14 ga power fore and aft to the new lamps. I used the supplied ground in the OEM harness, a white/black wire of 14 ga. On the exterior, the only visible change are the two cables carrying power are within a 1/4” plastic conduit on the right ROPS riser.
Those LED light bars really do the trick, and are way less expensive.
The connector for the rear lights is already there under the dash cowling taped up on the left hand side near the windshield. It looks just like the connector that runs the front work lights. You do not need to remove the headliner to do the wiring. You also do not need to remove the steering wheel to get the dash cowling off, as the cowling does come off with the proper procedure, meaning some possible cussing might be involved.
The switch from Kubota is expensive, but it will plug right in without any alterations. If you dont want to rewire the connectors on the back of the tractor, you can buy the OEM Kubota rear lights and they will plug right in. When I was looking into rear lights, the kit, lights, bracket, and mounting hardware was about $130.00. Guessing it is more now as I believe they went to LED lamps.
Orange1forme
Active member
Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
Orange1forme
Active member
Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
On my 2650, 2610 predecessor, all wiring is there and ready to go.
Switch wiring was zip tied to the existing front work light wiring, IIRC.
Rear plugs are there, although they are Kubota specific.
I bought the Kubota switch and it plugs right in. 10MM socket to remove the dash enough to gain easy access.
I cut the Kubota plugs off and used regular male/female weatherproof spade connectors. This make light changes easy, if need be.
Depending on the tractor, additional light mount brackets may be needed. I sort of remember ordering them, but not 100% sure.
There are a few posts about this subject. Do a search and you might find links to the things you need. Some links from early on are no longer valid.
Switch wiring was zip tied to the existing front work light wiring, IIRC.
Rear plugs are there, although they are Kubota specific.
I bought the Kubota switch and it plugs right in. 10MM socket to remove the dash enough to gain easy access.
I cut the Kubota plugs off and used regular male/female weatherproof spade connectors. This make light changes easy, if need be.
Depending on the tractor, additional light mount brackets may be needed. I sort of remember ordering them, but not 100% sure.
There are a few posts about this subject. Do a search and you might find links to the things you need. Some links from early on are no longer valid.
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The light switch is a standard Carling Technologies Switch that you can purchase on eBay for about $15. The one that you want is the 3-terminal switch. You can also purchase the Carling circuit breakers inexpensively on eBay. If you look at my post #7 in this thread you will see the switches that I used. They might not match, but you can't beat the price. If matching is important to you, the covers can be replaced with custom-made covers. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/no-work-lights.55515/#post-517922 If you need more assistance, just let me know. Dusty