Looking at smallest footprint for 1 acre lot

[wik]

I've been reading through the forums the last couple of weeks, lots of good information. I currently have a 25 year old garden tractor that has done amazing things but I don't have an option of putting a loader on it and I can't find a sleeve or 3-point hitch for it so its usefulness for the upcoming projects is limited. I've ruled out the JD 1 series due to size so now I've been debating between the Bx1870 and 2370.

Tractor needs:
Loader: I'm going to doing a fair amount of loader work the next year or so for various landscaping projects along with some grading this year. Once landscaping is done it will probably be used a little less but I think it's definitely worth hanging onto.
Grading: I'm planning on using a box grader and/or backblade for the grading. This would be for yard grading (and not road).
Mowing: A fair number of trees to mow around and probably less than .5 acres to mow. I'm thinking the 48" mower just because it's that much smaller. I'd like to be able to cut it small enough so that it mulches. Do I need the 48" Fine Cut and/or mulch kit?
Snowblowing: After having my current tractor setup with a snowblower and cab, I don't think I can not have one. But I realize this is a pricey option when front mounted. I'm looking at an Orange Aftermarket cab that I can take off during the warm months.

Rear weight:
My lot is tight with the many trees in it so I don't want to use the box grader for the rear weight. If I loaded the tires, added wheel weights, then picked up a Heavy Hitch with some suitcase weights, would that be enough? Are the Kubota weights worth getting or is there a more economical source for weights? I think they're about $70 each.

Will loaded tires + wheel weights be too much for mowing? I don't have a huge area to mow but I don't want the extra weight damaging my trees and/or lawn.

Decisions...
I'm looking at this tractor as a very long-term investment in our place (20+ years). But when I price everything out with the snowblower, cab, mower, loader, blade, etc I'm looking at over 20k for the 1870. Is this reasonable? Are there other options I should consider? I've looked at some garden tractors but finding ones that are all decked out with 3PH, loader and snowblower seem to be rare lately. Adding them piece by piece off CL seems to get pretty expensive very quickly.

And of course storage for everything is a premium. I'd love the grass collector for it especially in fall with all of the leaves but it's going to eat up a ton of space. Once landscaping projects are done, possibly get rid of the box grader? Keep the back blade for help in snow removal in winter? I know there are some trade-offs with the 1870 but is it worth it, based on my tractor needs, to get it for the smaller footprint?

Thanks in advance for helping with this big decision.

 

[EricM]

I can't comment on the price of your specific configuration, but when I was shopping a few weeks back, all of the dealers around here quoted me between 21.5 and 21.9K for a BX25D-1 TLB, 60"MMM, front plow with hydraulic angling, quick attach front bucket and 3PH kit.

A couple of the dealers here actively discouraged me from choosing the Fine Cut deck because they said that it tends to clog up with the moist, cool season grasses that are common around here.

They also told me that if I ever thought that I'd want a backhoe (which I did anyway) that my only choice in the BX line was the BX25 as the frame on the other models couldn't accommodate one.

Whichever you choose, I think you'll be quite pleased with it. I was quite impressed with the BX (even though I ended up buying a 1 series Deere).

 

[wik]

Thanks for your comments, Eric.

Based on your experience and other threads, I think I'll skip the Fine Cut deck since it is difficult to always have dry grass when cutting.

Right now I feel like I'm in-between tractors. I could really use the backhoe on the BX25-D for this next year or two. Maybe not long term but it's definitely something that would come in handy with my upcoming landscaping which will include tree planting and rock placement. I know that ultimately I wouldn't buy one due to the extra cost in addition to the extra storage required. I could look at renting one. I can get a 25D nearby for about $750/week.

But I also need 3PH work with a box grader. I could even pick up the 3PH kit for the 25D, buy or rent a box grader and add it to the rented 25D to get all of my major stuff done. It would also give me a chance to see if the footprint of the 25D/2370 is manageable on my property or if I really need the smaller size of the 1870. I could put off a $20K+ expenditure for a month while still getting some major tasks accomplished.

Since I'm at the very beginning of all my landscaping, I can also work around the dimensions of whatever tractor I'm using. So there would be less constraints to work around in the beginning.

With a lot of the heavy lifting out of the way on the rental, the BX1870 or similarly equipped garden tractor might be able to handle what I need done in the future: mowing, light loader work and snowblowing.

Anyone have any thoughts on this strategy?

I can't comment on the price of your specific configuration, but when I was shopping a few weeks back, all of the dealers around here quoted me between 21.5 and 21.9K for a BX25D-1 TLB, 60"MMM, front plow with hydraulic angling, quick attach front bucket and 3PH kit.

A couple of the dealers here actively discouraged me from choosing the Fine Cut deck because they said that it tends to clog up with the moist, cool season grasses that are common around here.

They also told me that if I ever thought that I'd want a backhoe (which I did anyway) that my only choice in the BX line was the BX25 as the frame on the other models couldn't accommodate one.

Whichever you choose, I think you'll be quite pleased with it. I was quite impressed with the BX (even though I ended up buying a 1 series Deere).

 

[chim]

A couple of general comments. Rear ballast weight has been addressed in several clever ways by people here. They include anything from garage-sale barbell weights to concrete cubes with PVC pipes implanted to make vertical tubes to carry shovels, rakes, etc.

If you want to do any grading, skip the rear blade unless it is all loose material. I had a fairly large area to work so I bought a very nice used box blade. Used it for the project and then sold it. I think I paid $50 more than I sold it for.

After being on open tractors for many years I built a cab. It cost around $1,200 (but a lot of hours) for a steel and automotive safety glass cab to be comfy year round. The doors lift off for warm weather so the top and remaining tinted glass keep the sun off me.

 

[dmbe]

I just purchased an 1870 last year with FEL and use it mainly for mowing. I cut about 1.5 acres including a large bank of 20 deg. without any problems. I did get the snowblower this winter and it worked great. I would go with a larger mower deck. I have the 54" fine cut with mulch kit. It cuts great. The extra few inches sticking out each side makes it easier to trim around objects like trees. I just put Gator blades on it and will find out tomorrow how they cut. I just have ballast in the rear tires and that seems to be sufficient for me when working with the FEL on flat terrain. I have left the mower on sometimes when using the FEL. That adds over 200 pounds of weight. It's not the easiest thing to take off and on but I'm getting good at it. I got the 1870 for one reason, it will fit in my garage without lowering the ropes. The 2370 is only one inch taller but would hit. The extra power would be nice but have only bogged mine down once while snowblowing wet heavy snow this winter. Just took a smaller bite and no problems. Good luck on your decision.

 

[wik]

I'll check into ballast. I read recently that loading the rear tires would be good for snow blowing but don't do a lot for balancing out the FEL. Sounds like you need the rear ballast for sure for that.

I thought about the rear blade for possible use in winter but I functioned just fine last year without one.

A couple of general comments. Rear ballast weight has been addressed in several clever ways by people here. They include anything from garage-sale barbell weights to concrete cubes with PVC pipes implanted to make vertical tubes to carry shovels, rakes, etc.

If you want to do any grading, skip the rear blade unless it is all loose material. I had a fairly large area to work so I bought a very nice used box blade. Used it for the project and then sold it. I think I paid $50 more than I sold it for.

After being on open tractors for many years I built a cab. It cost around $1,200 (but a lot of hours) for a steel and automotive safety glass cab to be comfy year round. The doors lift off for warm weather so the top and remaining tinted glass keep the sun off me.

 

[wik]

Did you get the mulching kit for it? How did the Gator blades work for you?

I just purchased an 1870 last year with FEL and use it mainly for mowing. I cut about 1.5 acres including a large bank of 20 deg. without any problems. I did get the snowblower this winter and it worked great. I would go with a larger mower deck. I have the 54" fine cut with mulch kit. It cuts great. The extra few inches sticking out each side makes it easier to trim around objects like trees. I just put Gator blades on it and will find out tomorrow how they cut. I just have ballast in the rear tires and that seems to be sufficient for me when working with the FEL on flat terrain. I have left the mower on sometimes when using the FEL. That adds over 200 pounds of weight. It's not the easiest thing to take off and on but I'm getting good at it. I got the 1870 for one reason, it will fit in my garage without lowering the ropes. The 2370 is only one inch taller but would hit. The extra power would be nice but have only bogged mine down once while snowblowing wet heavy snow this winter. Just took a smaller bite and no problems. Good luck on your decision.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

I have a BX 2370 with loaded rear tires. The loaded tires provide sufficient ballast for the fel. If I am moving long distances with the fel loaded I like to carry the rear blade for additional stability. For short tight maneuvering with the fel the extra stability of the rear blade isn't necessary as long as you move slow and keep the fel as low as possible when moving. My new rear blade is 250# previously I was only using a 150# blade when I wanted extra ballast. With the snow blower on I always have a rear blade on as it is a good compliment to a front snow blower for snow removal. Since I always had the rear blade on for snow removal I don't know how much it increased traction.

Larry

 

[dmbe]

Did you get the mulching kit for it? How did the Gator blades work for you?

I purchased the mulching kit from the dealer. It was very east to install. Only a few bolts. The blades that came with it are not too bad but the Gator blades seem to mulch the grass finer and so far no grass trails from deck.

 

[streetisneat]

I have a bx1860 with a loader front mounted snowblower and a rear box blade. I made a cab out a golf cart all weather cab and some 1" pvc pipe to keep me dry and warm . I also have 1/2 acre to mow with a few trees and flower beds to mow around. For the price of the mower deck and grass catcher, l opted to purchase a zero turn mower with mulching kit and grass catcher. I personally think you get a better cut and way more maneuverability with the zero turn mower. Just my opinion.

 

[streetisneat]

I also wanted a backhoe but my dealer was honest and told me what little use I would get out of it and storage issues he wouldn't recommend it especially with all of the box blade work I was going to do. He said rental was the way to go. I haven't needed a backhoe since my major project was done!

 

[streetisneat]

Just curious, what did you decide to buy or still researching!!

 

[cerlawson]

I have had several tractors of the compact variety. I moved onto a city lot and figured the BX was OK for that, even a little big. However, I am very disappointed with it because of some limitations. Main problem is the crumy control for the three point. Definitely not "standard' for a useful tractor. Loader height limit makes it not good for loading stuff on a truck. In heavy snow its ground clearance and limiting lift for the rear blade are limitations.

Also, review all the grief you see on these posts about stalling and plugged small fuel filters. They are a bitch to change and require that often.

I'd go for the B series and be sure you try both varieties to see the difference.

Even with an 18 HP model BX you won't need more power, but check other factors.

 

[wik]

Thanks for everyone's input. I think I'm close to making a decision. Looking at tractors in the yard was frustrating because no dealership ever had the configuration I was wanting available. And I was told that they don't put loaders on until you've purchased the tractor. But having the dealership drop one outfitted the way you want it with no strings attached really goes the distance in giving you the experience of what that particular tractor will be like on your particular property. I highly recommend doing so if you have a dealership willing to do so and is close enough.

I am currently considering the 2370 with FEL, 54" mower, 48" Box Blade, 48" Rear Blade, 50" front-mounted Snowblower and an Orange Aftermarket soft cab. Driving it around the yard and through my trees alleviated my concern that I was going to end up with a tractor that was just too big for my property.

One thing it won't do is fit in the garage without dropping the ROPS down so that was valuable information to know ahead of time. I have a detached garage that will need to be dedicated to it.

So I guess the moral of the story here is if you're on the fence about your tractor choice, do everything you can to actually try to get one on your property to test out before you commit.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

You may want to check on putting the ROPS down when you have a cab on.