L6060 Mowing.

SDT

Well-known member

Equipment
multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
3,084
923
113
SE, IN
Worked the L6060 ROPS hard yesterday mowing former pasture ground (no fences or animals) that had not been mowed yet this year. Mostly orchard grass and fescue. Needed to cut it so that the dogbane can grow back before spraying (again) in a month or so. The dogbane will grow back more quickly than the grass allowing good coverage with the sprayer.

Woods BB720X 6' cutter with sharp blades set close (skid rails just off of ground).

Put almost 8 gallons of fuel through it in about 4 hours.

Some ground steep and lots of obstacles about which I trimmed close so lots of steering and direction reversals. Cannot use M9960 with Woods 15' BW here.

Bracket attaching stabilizer bar to lift arm broke for the third time (once left, twice right) just before finishing. Dealer had 2 right brackets in stock, so I'm not the only one breaking these. Left bracket will be next so will order one if they do not have one (didn't think to check).

Set engine RPM to 540 PTO speed and turned stall guard on for use in non obstructed areas. Range selector in M. Mashed hydro pedal to floor and let computer control ground speed. Rarely above 3 MPH unless going downhill and often below 1 MPH. Stall guard would often reduce ground speed to 0 in heavy areas. Engine RPM changed only couple hundred RPM even with ground speed near 0, so computer attempting to maintain engine RPM/HP at expense of ground speed.

I've mowed same areas with since sold 2007 MF 533 (2007 version of MF 135) with 202 CI Perkins NA engine de-rated to 44 PTO HP for use in the single reduction 533 (but up to 75+ with turbo in larger tractors). The old tech 533 would pull same mower at higher speed through tough stuff but still took longer to finish project due to 2WD, 4X2 crash box (continual gear shifting and occasional range shifting), dry drum brakes, etc. The long stroke Perkins had much greater torque rise and pulled like a locomotive whereas 6060 engine relies on RPM and sounds like zero turn. The 533 also used significantly less fuel. Probably about 5 gallons for this project.

Don't get me wrong, folks. I expected this when I replaced the old tech 533 with the modern 6060 which is so much more user friendly and easier on the operator so not complaining, and I do complete the work in less time.

Still, it would have been interesting to have some forum members who like to question my mower sizing advise watching.

SDT
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
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Central Piedmont, NC
I use a 5’ rotary cutter behind my L4701. It’s rated for a 6’ but the 5’ was here 30 years before the L and I figure a paid for 5’ is better than a 6’ I don’t have. Performance depends quite a lot on what’s being mowed. Broom straw, Japanese stilt grass, clover; never slows down a bit and fuel economy is much better than the old gassers the L supplanted. We have some areas in a creek bottom with some sort of evil saw grass that grows in clumps slightly smaller than an old VW Bug. It’s the kind of you walk through it, it will literally shred you and it’s about as thick as the hair on a cat’s back. Mow it once a year in the late fall mostly because we need a trail through it navigable by a 4 wheeler and UTV during deer season. The L does it much better than the gassers and RPM stays up so long as ground speed is an old lady toddle, but the engine sound changes noticeably and it will start drinking fuel. It does a good job so not complaining at all.

Point being what you’re mowing has a very big impact on what it takes to cut it. Bush hogging 3’ high whatever happens to be growing there in un-landscaped terrain is a lot different and much more variable than cutting 1/2” off some fescue in a civilized yard or cutting hay in a routinely harvested field. Agree with mowers, bigger isn’t always better and sometimes it’s hard to give a solid recommendation on sizing without having actually seen the job.
 

SDT

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Equipment
multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
3,084
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SE, IN
I use a 5’ rotary cutter behind my L4701. It’s rated for a 6’ but the 5’ was here 30 years before the L and I figure a paid for 5’ is better than a 6’ I don’t have. Performance depends quite a lot on what’s being mowed. Broom straw, Japanese stilt grass, clover; never slows down a bit and fuel economy is much better than the old gassers the L supplanted. We have some areas in a creek bottom with some sort of evil saw grass that grows in clumps slightly smaller than an old VW Bug. It’s the kind of you walk through it, it will literally shred you and it’s about as thick as the hair on a cat’s back. Mow it once a year in the late fall mostly because we need a trail through it navigable by a 4 wheeler and UTV during deer season. The L does it much better than the gassers and RPM stays up so long as ground speed is an old lady toddle, but the engine sound changes noticeably and it will start drinking fuel. It does a good job so not complaining at all.

Point being what you’re mowing has a very big impact on what it takes to cut it. Bush hogging 3’ high whatever happens to be growing there in un-landscaped terrain is a lot different and much more variable than cutting 1/2” off some fescue in a civilized yard or cutting hay in a routinely harvested field. Agree with mowers, bigger isn’t always better and sometimes it’s hard to give a solid recommendation on sizing without having actually seen the job.
Bingo.

Mower sizing depends upon what one intends to cut and how fast one wishes to travel when cutting it.

SDT
 

kubotafreak

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Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Sep 20, 2018
1,019
372
83
Arkansas, US
I have noticed with mine the power fades when it get worked past 2 hours. The screens are clear, so its not a contamination issue with fins. It had rained previously otherwise id be clearing the screen often. I believe mine is over running the relief. I can hear it hiss in intervals. I still have good hearing, most probably wouldn't notice it since it is not all the time. Mine is fairly new and I haven't gotten the draft control all sorted out. I only adjusted the three point to not over run the hydraulics at max height. Ill know when I put a set of gauges on the lines. Fuel usage goes up tremendously when this situation occurs, and the hst fades as well. Fluid is getting really hot. I have not broken one of the stabilizers like you describe. My hog isn't as heavy as yours. I have noticed more wear/elongation of the pin holes on the outer stabilizer slide than I like. Having a lighter 6 foot, I would expect nothing more than the paint knocked off. If it is the mount im thinking of, it is shared among grand L lineup l5060-l6060 mx5000-6000. I plan on going pull type with my next hog. Any pictures of the bracket/mount?

#150?
 

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SDT

Well-known member

Equipment
multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
3,084
923
113
SE, IN
I have noticed with mine the power fades when it get worked past 2 hours. The screens are clear, so its not a contamination issue with fins. It had rained previously otherwise id be clearing the screen often. I believe mine is over running the relief. I can hear it hiss in intervals. I still have good hearing, most probably wouldn't notice it since it is not all the time. Mine is fairly new and I haven't gotten the draft control all sorted out. I only adjusted the three point to not over run the hydraulics at max height. Ill know when I put a set of gauges on the lines. Fuel usage goes up tremendously when this situation occurs, and the hst fades as well. Fluid is getting really hot. I have not broken one of the stabilizers like you describe. My hog isn't as heavy as yours. I have noticed more wear/elongation of the pin holes on the outer stabilizer slide than I like. Having a lighter 6 foot, I would expect nothing more than the paint knocked off. If it is the mount im thinking of, it is shared among grand L lineup l5060-l6060 mx5000-6000. I plan on going pull type with my next hog. Any pictures of the bracket/mount?

#150?
No photos, but, yes, item 150. All three have broken at the first thread, indication of marginal strength. Yes, I do keep the nuts TIGHT.

Good luck with the Rube Goldberg draft control. I have it on mine and would not buy it again.

SDT
 
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Fordtech86

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Lifetime Member

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L3200
Aug 7, 2018
4,708
5,479
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Pineville,LA
Worked the L6060 ROPS hard yesterday mowing former pasture ground (no fences or animals) that had not been mowed yet this year. Mostly orchard grass and fescue. Needed to cut it so that the dogbane can grow back before spraying (again) in a month or so. The dogbane will grow back more quickly than the grass allowing good coverage with the sprayer.

Woods BB720X 6' cutter with sharp blades set close (skid rails just off of ground).

Put almost 8 gallons of fuel through it in about 4 hours.

Some ground steep and lots of obstacles about which I trimmed close so lots of steering and direction reversals. Cannot use M9960 with Woods 15' BW here.

Bracket attaching stabilizer bar to lift arm broke for the third time (once left, twice right) just before finishing. Dealer had 2 right brackets in stock, so I'm not the only one breaking these. Left bracket will be next so will order one if they do not have one (didn't think to check).

Set engine RPM to 540 PTO speed and turned stall guard on for use in non obstructed areas. Mashed hydro pedal to floor and let computer control ground speed. Rarely above 3 MPH unless going downhill and often below 1 MPH. Stall guard would often reduce ground speed to 0 in heavy areas. Engine RPM changed only couple hundred RPM even with ground speed near 0, so computer attempting to maintain engine RPM/HP at expense of ground speed.

I've mowed same areas with since sold 2007 MF 533 (2007 version of MF 135) with 202 CI Perkins NA engine de-rated to 44 PTO HP for use in the single reduction 533 (but up to 75+ with turbo in larger tractors). The old tech 533 would pull same mower at higher speed through tough stuff but still took longer to finish project due to 2WD, 4X2 crash box (continual gear shifting and occasional range shifting), dry drum brakes, etc. The long stroke Perkins had much greater torque rise and pulled like a locomotive whereas 6060 engine relies on RPM and sounds like zero turn. The 533 also used significantly less fuel. Probably about 5 gallons for this project.

Don't get me wrong, folks. I expected this when I replaced the old tech 533 with the modern 6060 which is so much more user friendly and easier on the operator so not complaining, and I do complete the work in less time.

Still, it would have been interesting to have some forum members who like to question my mower sizing advise watching.

SDT
Not sure the thread title invites the audience you wanted. You give great advice and I believe you error on the side of conservative which is likely best.

Had the L3200 out the past two nights making the first cut of the year on the part of my yard that has been too wet to mow yet. Mine is gear drive so likely very different with a HST machine.

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I have 5 ft bush hog and its all it wants in this type of cutting. This is in 3rd gear and throttle set at 2500 rpm, sometimes have to lift the mower to keep up (HST owners could just back off pedal I guess). After this cut and it being dry I can mow the same ground if I wanted in high 2 and it doesn’t even flinch, would likely pull a 6 ft just fine in perfect conditions (which I believe is the point of your post), conditions are the biggest factor in sizing the implement to the tractor.
 
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