L295 clogged fuel

Tgore76

Member

Equipment
Kubota L295dt
Aug 6, 2021
30
1
8
North Carolina
Just starting to use my L295DT after purchasing last year - new clutch, alternator/battery, hydraulic pump, fluids, etc

Now it’s stalling out. Seems that tank/line clogged. Is it easier/better to drain/flush in place, or remove? Any directions on either? I tried to remove fuel tank today and after a couple hours an a dozen bolts, was out of time/energy!
 

South 40

Active member

Equipment
L1500DT, 750 Ford backhoe, 49 D4 Cat Repowered with 6.9L Diesel
Nov 12, 2012
165
51
28
Bloomsdale, Mo. USA
Just starting to use my L295DT after purchasing last year - new clutch, alternator/battery, hydraulic pump, fluids, etc

Now it’s stalling out. Seems that tank/line clogged. Is it easier/better to drain/flush in place, or remove? Any directions on either? I tried to remove fuel tank today and after a couple hours an a dozen bolts, was out of time/energy!
Hey Tgore76,

There are only 4 screws holding the tank to the brackets, but you do have to take off the 4 screws that hold the dash/cowl on, those go in from the bottom, but you have to pull the steering wheel to get all of that off.

I suppose you could clean and rinse in place, but it's actually harder than taking it off, your problem is most like the little screen that is attached to the tank side of the shut off valve on the bottom of the tank.

I just did a big write up on trouble shooting the fuel system, here:

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/injector-pump.57605/#post-548962

Another short one here:

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/l185-fuel-tank.57630/#post-549108

Cheers
Samantha
 
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Tgore76

Member

Equipment
Kubota L295dt
Aug 6, 2021
30
1
8
North Carolina
It would help if you told us why you reached the conclusion the tank line is clogged.
Dave
Tractor sat quite a bit before I bought it. I changed fuel filter. When it stalled, I pulled off new filter and it had water and sediment in it. I took fuel line off at filter and fuel not flowing. So I disconnected at shut off and barely trickles out.
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S
Apr 2, 2019
4,951
1,642
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
It sounds like tank wall could be covered in black diesel algae or some other 'bad stuff'.
Do it right, pull the tank, TOTALLY clean it out, rinse, dry then INSPECT, real good( LED flashlight and mirror). Leave in hot sun for 1-2 hours, INSPECT again...if OK, THEN reinstall onto tractor.

BTW. Be sure to really,really clean the fuel gauge parts ! ANY 'stuff' on them WILL be bad news later on....
 

Tgore76

Member

Equipment
Kubota L295dt
Aug 6, 2021
30
1
8
North Carolina
It sounds like tank wall could be covered in black diesel algae or some other 'bad stuff'.
Do it right, pull the tank, TOTALLY clean it out, rinse, dry then INSPECT, real good( LED flashlight and mirror). Leave in hot sun for 1-2 hours, INSPECT again...if OK, THEN reinstall onto tractor.

BTW. Be sure to really,really clean the fuel gauge parts ! ANY 'stuff' on them WILL be bad news later on....
Thanks. None of my gauges work (except glow plug lights)....lots of wires that seem to just "end". I'd really like to clean up all the wiring, but it very much overwhelms me!

I really appreciate the advice on this forum. REALLY wish that I could link up with someone close by that we could "trade labor" and I could get a second set of eyes/hands on some of these projects. While I like the sense of accomplishment when I complete something....it takes me REALLY long and with a 40 year old tractor, the next hiccup is probably a few operating hours away!
 
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South 40

Active member

Equipment
L1500DT, 750 Ford backhoe, 49 D4 Cat Repowered with 6.9L Diesel
Nov 12, 2012
165
51
28
Bloomsdale, Mo. USA
Thanks. None of my gauges work (except glow plug lights)....lots of wires that seem to just "end". I'd really like to clean up all the wiring, but it very much overwhelms me!

I really appreciate the advice on this forum. REALLY wish that I could link up with someone close by that we could "trade labor" and I could get a second set of eyes/hands on some of these projects. While I like the sense of accomplishment when I complete something....it takes me REALLY long and with a 40 year old tractor, the next hiccup is probably a few operating hours away!
Hey Tgore76,

Same here I wish I had someone close enough to trade favors.

I just ripped all the wiring out of my L1500DT, (Basically a grey market L175) and am in the process of fixing everything and making a new harness for it.

Just take it one step at a time, don't get in a rush and do everything as best you can, you will prevail, :).

Cheers
Samantha
 
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Tgore76

Member

Equipment
Kubota L295dt
Aug 6, 2021
30
1
8
North Carolina
Hey Tgore76,

There are only 4 screws holding the tank to the brackets, but you do have to take off the 4 screws that hold the dash/cowl on, those go in from the bottom, but you have to pull the steering wheel to get all of that off.

I suppose you could clean and rinse in place, but it's actually harder than taking it off, your problem is most like the little screen that is attached to the tank side of the shut off valve on the bottom of the tank.

I just did a big write up on trouble shooting the fuel system, here:

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/injector-pump.57605/#post-548962

Another short one here:

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/l185-fuel-tank.57630/#post-549108

Cheers
Samantha
Can anyone give me help in how to get the cowl off?

I Got the steering wheel off and instrument panel, but can’t get cowl off. Where are the acres holding it on?
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
10,846
2,012
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
I can't answer your question tonight, I'll have to dig up some pictures.

I bought an L305 back a few years and that's when I came to this forum to learn the same question. This tractor had been in a barn fire and got hot enough to melt the tail light of the left fender. The wiring was toasted, the fan was melted in place. I couldn't get anything loose and wondering what I'd destroy if I started prying. I'll look at some picture and maybe I'll recall. I do know I changed it all when I finally got in there. I welded nuts to the underside of the cowling so it became bolted with SS bolts after I was done.

Here's a couple of pictures.
 

Attachments

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
3,200
419
83
Austin, Texas
There are probably four total bolts (two per side) holding the cowling down. They are attaching the cowling to some vertical straps that also hold the tank in place.

In the pictures above you can see the strap in the picture showing the fuel tank.

You may have to get your eyes way down by the floor boards and then look up towards the cowling to see the bolt heads.
 

SonofOrange

Member

Equipment
L245F with 1200 loader, T1870, AT70, GL-5500(S)
Sep 1, 2021
101
7
18
Monroe, GA
These are easy to work on if your fingers are nimble enough. Your unit sounds like how I inherited my L245. I ended up removing the tank and using hot, medium pressure water to wash the gunk out. Then I acid etched the inside of the tank. Be prepared to find other problems.
Afterwards I found lots of pinholes, this required sealing the tank. But, that would have been way worse to refill the tank, continue to fight clogs only to have it start leaking precious fuel. Because mine had sat for so long with water in the tank I needed to have the injection pump rebuilt. It's way easier to work on the fuel systems than finding parts to repair a damaged engine.

As for the wiring, it's easy to find Kubota workshop manuals online. The wiring is straightforward, and having the cowl off is the perfect time to track the wiring down.

Also, if you remove your steering wheel, slip a plastic drinking cup or something to protect your seat. If not your steering column will punch a perfect hole in your seat back when you forget and flip the seat forward.
 

Tgore76

Member

Equipment
Kubota L295dt
Aug 6, 2021
30
1
8
North Carolina
These are easy to work on if your fingers are nimble enough. Your unit sounds like how I inherited my L245. I ended up removing the tank and using hot, medium pressure water to wash the gunk out. Then I acid etched the inside of the tank. Be prepared to find other problems.
Afterwards I found lots of pinholes, this required sealing the tank. But, that would have been way worse to refill the tank, continue to fight clogs only to have it start leaking precious fuel. Because mine had sat for so long with water in the tank I needed to have the injection pump rebuilt. It's way easier to work on the fuel systems than finding parts to repair a damaged engine.

As for the wiring, it's easy to find Kubota workshop manuals online. The wiring is straightforward, and having the cowl off is the perfect time to track the wiring down.

Also, if you remove your steering wheel, slip a plastic drinking cup or something to protect your seat. If not your steering column will punch a perfect hole in your seat back when you forget and flip the seat forward.
I got the tank off! The valve did have a sludge "plug" in it, which was keeping the fuel from flowing. Quick look, I see just a little bit of rust in the bottom, but it does not look bad at all to me!?

Not sure how to determine if I should just rinse out, dry, re-install....or if I should etch/line the tank?

If I do decide to use a liner...how do you keep from clogging the vent tube(s)?
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
10,846
2,012
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
Tgore76, what might work good for you is to get a magnet (like you had in school, horse shoe type). Tie a string to the magnet and swing it around in the tank. You'll pick up all the metal crumbs. You can leave the magnet in the tank attached to the string and just have the string coming out at the fuel cap and it'll will keep any floaters you can't get now another day.
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
3,200
419
83
Austin, Texas
See this thread for information on similar problem

I think you will need to clean and coat it or you will continue to have problems. You may be able to get a used one but that person ( 007kubotaguy) seems to have dropped off this forum

I used some wire in the tank’s fuel gauge and injector pump return ports. I twisted them around to keep the epoxy from solidifying in the hole and removed them after a few minutes. The larger threaded holes I just put bolts in with a little oil on the threads and took them out later and the epoxy was drilled out if needed.
 
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SonofOrange

Member

Equipment
L245F with 1200 loader, T1870, AT70, GL-5500(S)
Sep 1, 2021
101
7
18
Monroe, GA
I got the tank off! The valve did have a sludge "plug" in it, which was keeping the fuel from flowing. Quick look, I see just a little bit of rust in the bottom, but it does not look bad at all to me!?

Not sure how to determine if I should just rinse out, dry, re-install....or if I should etch/line the tank?

If I do decide to use a liner...how do you keep from clogging the vent tube(s)?
I'd start by using a light pressure washer, like at a car wash. That will knock any rust loose without doing damage. Then use muriatic acid from Home Depot let it sit for a while keeping the rusty areas wet. Then wash the tank throughly. If you have no rust and no pin holes, you should be good. I'd then still pick up a POR-15 motorcycle tank repair kit and follow the directions. It's $60 bucks and will save you from having the do all of this over again. Rust can fester and any water will find the lowest spots and continue to eat the steel. To keep the sealant from getting into the vent holes, I used compressed air to blow it out before it set. As for the drain holes, I used a bolt to to keep in it and then drained the excess and wiped the threads real well. You do not want to let the epoxy puddle, it'll crack and allow fuel and water to get under it. I also noticed the fuel cap does not seal well. I keep a secondary cover on it if the tractor is left out in the rain.
 

South 40

Active member

Equipment
L1500DT, 750 Ford backhoe, 49 D4 Cat Repowered with 6.9L Diesel
Nov 12, 2012
165
51
28
Bloomsdale, Mo. USA
I'd start by using a light pressure washer, like at a car wash. That will knock any rust loose without doing damage. Then use muriatic acid from Home Depot let it sit for a while keeping the rusty areas wet. Then wash the tank throughly. If you have no rust and no pin holes, you should be good. I'd then still pick up a POR-15 motorcycle tank repair kit and follow the directions. It's $60 bucks and will save you from having the do all of this over again. Rust can fester and any water will find the lowest spots and continue to eat the steel. To keep the sealant from getting into the vent holes, I used compressed air to blow it out before it set. As for the drain holes, I used a bolt to to keep in it and then drained the excess and wiped the threads real well. You do not want to let the epoxy puddle, it'll crack and allow fuel and water to get under it. I also noticed the fuel cap does not seal well. I keep a secondary cover on it if the tractor is left out in the rain.
Hey Folks,

One BIG thing to keep in mind with this statement: "Then use muriatic acid from Home Depot let it sit for a while keeping the rusty areas wet. Then wash the tank throughly", , (or any kind of acidic type of product), is make sure you fill the tank with baking soda mixed with water to stop the acidic action from eating your tank from the inside!

It is EXTREMELY important to neutralize any kind of Acidic reaction!

Cheers
Samantha
 
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SonofOrange

Member

Equipment
L245F with 1200 loader, T1870, AT70, GL-5500(S)
Sep 1, 2021
101
7
18
Monroe, GA
Hey Folks,

One BIG thing to keep in mind with this statement: "Then use muriatic acid from Home Depot let it sit for a while keeping the rusty areas wet. Then wash the tank throughly", , (or any kind of acidic type of product), is make sure you fill the tank with baking soda mixed with water to stop the acidic action from eating your tank from the inside!

It is EXTREMELY important to neutralize any kind of Acidic reaction!

Cheers
Samantha
Good point.
 

Mark_BX25D

Well-known member

Equipment
Bx25D
Jul 19, 2020
765
450
63
Virginia
I think you will need to clean and coat it or you will continue to have problems.

Agreed! Clean it out properly, coat it, and rest easy knowing you won't have problems with that tank for a long time to come.


OR, cross your fingers and hope... until it bites you.