Would anyone know where or how to hook up the separate pump for the FEL on a L245 DT ? Currently I have a double sprocket with a shaft running to the pulley with a piece of rubber in between ( not my design) bought the tractor set up like this and it has failed me. is there a different set up?
L245Dt FEL front hydraulic pump and shaft problem
- Thread starter Eaglenest
- Start date
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You have four options on that tractor:
1) Tap into the tractor hydraulic system.
2) Rig up a belt drive hydraulic pump.
3) Use the front shaft off of the engine (sounds like you currently have this) to drive the pump.
4) Rear PTO shaft driven hydraulic pump.
Here is a link to a thread on the belt drive system.
www.orangetractortalks.com
Since you have the front drive system (I assume) in place I would suggest you repair it but that depends on what exactly has failed. I assume that the coupling failed and can be replaced fairly easily.
Please post some pictures of what you have and what failed.
1) Tap into the tractor hydraulic system.
2) Rig up a belt drive hydraulic pump.
3) Use the front shaft off of the engine (sounds like you currently have this) to drive the pump.
4) Rear PTO shaft driven hydraulic pump.
Here is a link to a thread on the belt drive system.
Adding an auxiliary hydraulic pump to grey market b6000dt
I just recently bought a b6000 tractor that gives all the signs of being a great market machine. I bought it with the idea of building a small front loader and backhoe combo to go on it. The thing that I’m getting hung up on right now is how to mount an extra pump to it. By what I’ve been able...
www.orangetractortalks.com
Since you have the front drive system (I assume) in place I would suggest you repair it but that depends on what exactly has failed. I assume that the coupling failed and can be replaced fairly easily.
Please post some pictures of what you have and what failed.
You have four options on that tractor:
1) Tap into the tractor hydraulic system.
2) Rig up a belt drive hydraulic pump.
3) Use the front shaft off of the engine (sounds like you currently have this) to drive the pump.
4) Rear PTO shaft driven hydraulic pump.
Here is a link to a thread on the belt drive system.
Adding an auxiliary hydraulic pump to grey market b6000dt
I just recently bought a b6000 tractor that gives all the signs of being a great market machine. I bought it with the idea of building a small front loader and backhoe combo to go on it. The thing that I’m getting hung up on right now is how to mount an extra pump to it. By what I’ve been able...
Since you have the front drive system (I assume) in place I would suggest you repair it but that depends on what exactly has failed. I assume that the coupling failed and can be replaced fairly easily.
Please post some pictures of what you have and what failed.
Thanks I will tryYou have four options on that tractor:
1) Tap into the tractor hydraulic system.
2) Rig up a belt drive hydraulic pump.
3) Use the front shaft off of the engine (sounds like you currently have this) to drive the pump.
4) Rear PTO shaft driven hydraulic pump.
Here is a link to a thread on the belt drive system.
Adding an auxiliary hydraulic pump to grey market b6000dt
I just recently bought a b6000 tractor that gives all the signs of being a great market machine. I bought it with the idea of building a small front loader and backhoe combo to go on it. The thing that I’m getting hung up on right now is how to mount an extra pump to it. By what I’ve been able...
Since you have the front drive system (I assume) in place I would suggest you repair it but that depends on what exactly has failed. I assume that the coupling failed and can be replaced fairly easily.
Please post some pictures of what you have and what failed.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Tapping into the tractor hydraulics is the best option.
There is a block you remove and bolt on the tap block in it's place.
There is a block you remove and bolt on the tap block in it's place.
You have four options on that tractor:
1) Tap into the tractor hydraulic system.
2) Rig up a belt drive hydraulic pump.
3) Use the front shaft off of the engine (sounds like you currently have this) to drive the pump.
4) Rear PTO shaft driven hydraulic pump.
Here is a link to a thread on the belt drive system.
Adding an auxiliary hydraulic pump to grey market b6000dt
I just recently bought a b6000 tractor that gives all the signs of being a great market machine. I bought it with the idea of building a small front loader and backhoe combo to go on it. The thing that I’m getting hung up on right now is how to mount an extra pump to it. By what I’ve been able...
Since you have the front drive system (I assume) in place I would suggest you repair it but that depends on what exactly has failed. I assume that the coupling failed and can be replaced fairly easily.
Please post some pictures of what you have and what failed.
[/
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
See this thread post #32 for a picture of the engine crank shaft that comes out of the front of the engine.
power steering for B6100
I have the opportunity to get a complete power steering unit from an Arens GT20 Garden tractor. It is fully hydraulic with an orbit valve on the end of the steering shaft. Is this heavy enough for a B6100 with a front end loader. i have a feeling that I may have to rig up a belt driven power...
www.orangetractortalks.com
This is a picture, from the front of the tractor, that shows how that shaft was used to mount another shaft that then was used to drive the hydraulic pump. The yellow is the shaft. The red is the weight bracket. The blue is a radiator drain.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
@Eaglenest
When you REPLY to a post you should see something like below.
-QUOTE="Eaglenest, post: 813311, member: 69691"]
TEXT
[/QUOTE-
You need to type outside of the first “quote” or the last “quote“ or it is difficult to see what you are saying.
I saw the pictures you posted above but have no idea what you are trying to show or where that is on your tractor. Please back up some or describe what you are showing.
When you REPLY to a post you should see something like below.
-QUOTE="Eaglenest, post: 813311, member: 69691"]
TEXT
[/QUOTE-
You need to type outside of the first “quote” or the last “quote“ or it is difficult to see what you are saying.
I saw the pictures you posted above but have no idea what you are trying to show or where that is on your tractor. Please back up some or describe what you are showing.
Is this diagram your setup? Item 10 is a flexible coupling. The part is discontinued so we can't see how it's made, but perhaps the flex is provided by a rubber element? The crankshaft nose is splined and the pump also, I think. Are these splined couplings what you've described as sprockets or perhaps they've been modified?
All these parts have been discontinued, so you'll need to improvise if you want to keep the front pump system.
Some folks have used chain couplings and a spacer shaft. @Russell King has referenced one method. The L35 uses disk couplings with a spacer shaft as shown below.
I think the first issue is to check the condition of the splines. If they are in good shape, you could use the ends off the coupler (for the splines) you have and add gear couplings to each end.
See this thread post #32 for a picture of the engine crank shaft that comes out of the front of the engine.
power steering for B6100
I have the opportunity to get a complete power steering unit from an Arens GT20 Garden tractor. It is fully hydraulic with an orbit valve on the end of the steering shaft. Is this heavy enough for a B6100 with a front end loader. i have a feeling that I may have to rig up a belt driven power...
This is a picture, from the front of the tractor, that shows how that shaft was used to mount another shaft that then was used to drive the hydraulic pump. The yellow is the shaft. The red is the weight bracket. The blue is a radiator drain.
would you happen to know where I could purchase the yellow partSee this thread post #32 for a picture of the engine crank shaft that comes out of the front of the engine.
power steering for B6100
I have the opportunity to get a complete power steering unit from an Arens GT20 Garden tractor. It is fully hydraulic with an orbit valve on the end of the steering shaft. Is this heavy enough for a B6100 with a front end loader. i have a feeling that I may have to rig up a belt driven power...
This is a picture, from the front of the tractor, that shows how that shaft was used to mount another shaft that then was used to drive the hydraulic pump. The yellow is the shaft. The red is the weight bracket. The blue is a radiator drain.
View attachment 162605
These are side pics of where the shaft hooks on to the engine and the other pic is from the pump to the dual sprocket coupling sorry they are not very good pics
Attachments
It looks like it's not connected at the crankshaft, and I don't see splines on the crankshaft. Is that right?
Here's a link to another front drive chain thread and an excerpt from it that might help. This is the setup I was alluding to in my earlier post.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
No you can not buy parts for that system any longer as new parts. There may be some used parts somewhere in the world but I don’t think those even exist anymore.
That shaft (yellow) was a custom machined part that was clamped onto the shaft that exits the front of the engine. He used a commercially available “taper lock hub” to clamp it onto the engine shaft. I believe that he posted a link to that in the thread I linked above. There are other methods to do that and there are threads about that. If you search you sh be able to find them. If not just ask and I will try to locate them and link them here.
But see my next post- I think that you have a broken crank shat stub!
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I took a screenshot of your picture and tried to make it more legible. I think I see the shaft out of the engine marked in red. Then it appears that the shaft is broken into two pieces. The break is highlighed in yellow on both sides. Please take a bright flashlight and shine in there and verify that is what has happened. If so you will NOT be able to easily use the front mounted pump any longer.
That is correct It is no longer connected it was connected with bolts going through rubber
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
The shaft on my crankshaft is a few inches long. Probably four or five inches long and has a good chamfer on the end. Here is a picture of a similar shaft that should be there. The red mark is where I think yours is broken off. But I hope I am wrong!
