L245DT 3pt won't lift

[abeconnally]

I have a late 70's model L245DT. This thing has been running great and working great all year.

I noticed a small leak of fluid on the left wheel seal, so before doing some work the other day, I checked the hydraulic/transmission fluid level, and it was a bit low. I had to add a quart to get it back to correct level, coming out of the bolt hole on the side.

Anyway, took the tractor out to work, and the 3 pt lift is not working. It lowers fine, but it will not raise. If I lift manually, it holds the arms up, and will lift them slowly at high rpm with no attachment. The day before, I mowed for about 5 hours, and it had no issues, was lifting and lowering the mower without a problem. Day before that, I was lifting large hay bales with it, moved about a dozen, 800-1000 lb bales, no issues whatsoever.

So, I did a bit of research, and went through the obvious things. Drained the fluid, cleaned the screen (it was dirty), added good, clean fluid. Still nothing.

Checked the vent. It was clogged, cleaned and put it back on. Still nothing.

So I took off the relief valve assembly on the left side below the seat, nothing looked weird there, didn't see any debris or anything. Flushed it out good, and put it back on, still nothing. Is there a way to test these relief valves?

When I lift it manually, the arms catch up and will hold it. But I noticed today, that when I turn the engine off, the arms will very slowly lower, it takes a few hours for them to drop with a heavy implement.

Does that sound like possibly the piston o-rings or possible the control valve or something like that? I admit, I'm starting to test the limits of my mechanical abilities, but I really need my little workhorse back!

 

[Dave_eng]

Does your tractor have a loader?

If yes, is the loader getting hydraulic flow from the tractor's pump which also powers the 3 pt hitch.

Does your tractor have power steering?

Dave

 

[hugo7432]

Does your tractor have a loader?

If yes, is the loader getting hydraulic flow from the tractor's pump which also powers the 3 pt hitch.

Does your tractor have power steering?

Dave

Looks like there's no power steering according to tractordata.

But if the loader is working then I would have a look at the seals in the 3 point cylinders. Not sure what they look like on your old machine, but given the age, I wouldn't be surprised if they were worn out.

If other hydraulics aren't working, there's either something wrong with your pump or the lines are clogged assuming you have the correct fluid level.

 

[Dave_eng]

Looks like there's no power steering according to tractordata.

But if the loader is working then I would have a look at the seals in the 3 point cylinders. Not sure what they look like on your old machine, but given the age, I wouldn't be surprised if they were worn out.

If other hydraulics aren't working, there's either something wrong with your pump or the lines are clogged assuming you have the correct fluid level.

There can be PS on a L245DT contrary to tractordata.com

Messicks lists the parts including a priority flow valve which ensure the PS always has sufficient flow and pressure to operate

It there is a FEL on this tractor, then the hydraulic block can have a selector valve to switch between the FEL and the 3 pt hitch.

Previously. owners with the same problem found the lever to select between the FEL and 3 pt was partially out of position.

Dave

 

[hugo7432]

There can be PS on a L245DT contrary to tractordata.com

Messicks lists the parts including a priority flow valve which ensure the PS always has sufficient flow and pressure to operate

View attachment 48863

It there is a FEL on this tractor, then the hydraulic block can have a selector valve to switch between the FEL and the 3 pt hitch.

Previously. owners with the same problem found the lever to select between the FEL and 3 pt was partially out of position.

Dave

Oh OK. Someone will have to let Peter from TD know! Lol.

 

[Mudball]

You said you removed and cleaned the control valve, and though this suggestion is obvious, have you tried turning the speed control knob completely both directions a couple of times, and then operating the lift in each direction ?
Here is a troubleshooting link hat might help you in the future if you dont already have it.

3-Point Hitch Problem - Tractor Service Manual - How to Troubleshoot and Fix Tractor 3 Point Hitch Problems

Tractor Service Manual - How to Troubleshoot and Fix Tractor 3 Point Hitch Problem and Mechanical Issues Guide. If your tractor 3 Point Hitc...

www.teamtractor.com

I hope you get it resolved soon. Good luck.

 

[abeconnally]

Does your tractor have a loader?

If yes, is the loader getting hydraulic flow from the tractor's pump which also powers the 3 pt hitch.

Does your tractor have power steering?

Dave

Yes, it has a loader, but it has a separate hydraulic system for the loader. There's a separate pump on the front of the tractor. No power steering.

 

[abeconnally]

You said you removed and cleaned the control valve, and though this suggestion is obvious, have you tried turning the speed control knob completely both directions a couple of times, and then operating the lift in each direction ?
Here is a troubleshooting link hat might help you in the future if you dont already have it.

3-Point Hitch Problem - Tractor Service Manual - How to Troubleshoot and Fix Tractor 3 Point Hitch Problems

Tractor Service Manual - How to Troubleshoot and Fix Tractor 3 Point Hitch Problem and Mechanical Issues Guide. If your tractor 3 Point Hitc...

www.teamtractor.com

I hope you get it resolved soon. Good luck.

No, I didn't remove and clean the control valve. I removed and cleaned the relief valve. I will probably do the control valve today, since I am kinda out of options.

I did try changing the speed control knob, but it had no effect.

 

[Mudball]

No, I didn't remove and clean the control valve. I removed and cleaned the relief valve. I will probably do the control valve today, since I am kinda out of options.

I did try changing the speed control knob, but it had no effect.

Sorry, I misread about the control valve. Best of luck.

 

[abeconnally]

Sorry, I misread about the control valve. Best of luck.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

The more I think about it, the more I'm convinced it's probably the piston leaking pressure.

 

[JRaf]

I have a l245DT and have had a similar problem.
If you lock up the drop control valve with an implement on the 3pt hitch does it slowly fall? If it doesn't, I don't think your problem is the piston o-ring. But I have more questions:
First, you have two hydraulic pumps? That's possible I guess but the first I've heard of. On my tractor there's a hydraulic pump mounted on the right side of the engine (from driver's seat). There's a fatter line that runs back to the bottom of the hydraulic sump along the right side of the transmission. The narrower line runs back higher and crosses over to the left side in front of the big round piston cover below the seat. On my rig there's an aluminum splitter block there that has two flexible hydraulic hoses mounted that run off to the FEL valve. On the other side of the block the hard pressure line continues into the rear case and into the big piston housing. All the rear hydraulics run from there.
There's no switch to turn on or off the FEL but there could be on some tractors.
The WSM doesn't have much documentation on that block and none on the FEL. Most of the FEL's were American made (all the bolts and fittings are SAE, not metric on mine).
If you have a similar setup (only one pump) and your FEL is working, then your problem lays in the rear hydraulics (which you already suspect). But you have to make sure you're getting pressurized flow into that head.
If you are you can take off the six or eight bolts for the piston cover and pull out the piston. Replacing the big O-ring is easy. But look for debris or junk in all the little holes and veins. Change out ALL the o-rings. You can't really tell if they're bad.
Pictures help a lot.

 

[JRaf]

The two lines that run back from the pump are hard lines, not flexible rubber lines. On my tractor there's no flexible lines that came from the factory. They all service the FEL and they were almost certainly added in the U.S.

 

[abeconnally]

If you lock up the drop control valve with an implement on the 3pt hitch does it slowly fall? If it doesn't, I don't think your problem is the piston o-ring.

That's a good test, I will try that.

First, you have two hydraulic pumps? That's possible I guess but the first I've heard of. On my tractor there's a hydraulic pump mounted on the right side of the engine (from driver's seat). There's a fatter line that runs back to the bottom of the hydraulic sump along the right side of the transmission. The narrower line runs back higher and crosses over to the left side in front of the big round piston cover below the seat. On my rig there's an aluminum splitter block there that has two flexible hydraulic hoses mounted that run off to the FEL valve. On the other side of the block the hard pressure line continues into the rear case and into the big piston housing. All the rear hydraulics run from there.

Yes, 2 hydraulic pumps. I have the regular on the right side of engine, like yours, but then there is another on the front PTO mounted under the radiator. It supplies the FEL, but nothing else.

I have the aluminum block and the lines same as you. And there is a takeoff there at that block by the control valve, but there's nothing attached to it.

But you have to make sure you're getting pressurized flow into that head.
If you are you can take off the six or eight bolts for the piston cover and pull out the piston. Replacing the big O-ring is easy. But look for debris or junk in all the little holes and veins. Change out ALL the o-rings. You can't really tell if they're bad.

Do you know a good source for the o-rings? I may disconnect or loosen the line at certain points and see if there's pressure, just to rule out the pump.

I am going to take apart and check the lines and the control valve, next. Just trying to eliminate everything one piece at a time.

 

[abeconnally]

The two lines that run back from the pump are hard lines, not flexible rubber lines. On my tractor there's no flexible lines that came from the factory. They all service the FEL and they were almost certainly added in the U.S.

yes, my FEL lines are all flexible, and they go from the control to the hydraulic pump o the front of the tractor.

 

[abeconnally]

I have a l245DT and have had a similar problem.

What ended up being your problem and solution?

 

[JRaf]

You can get boxes of sized o-rings from Harbor Freight (in SAE and metric) or from various places on line.

 

[JRaf]

What ended up being your problem and solution?

You can search for my old threads for pics. Originally I found the rod that crosses between the 3pt control lever and the relief valve and connects in the middle to the position control valve had somehow worked it's way off. It was laying under the gears at the bottom of the sump under all the hydraulic oil. All that stuff is mounted under the top lid of the transaxle case. It's heavy which makes it hard to get off but really not that big a deal (unless you have a ROPS installed that gets in the way).
I developed a second problem when I braised a hydraulic line. I got bits of silver solder caught in the position control valve. That thing is a b(&(^$ to get apart. Avoid that if you can. There's some info in that thread that might be useful.
But I think first things first, check that pump. I can't tell you how to measure the pressure but if you unhook the skinny hard line by the piston cover it should flow a ton of oil when you turn the engine over.

 

[abeconnally]

You can get boxes of sized o-rings from Harbor Freight (in SAE and metric) or from various places on line.

Wait, really? I can use general orings for the cylinder?

But I think first things first, check that pump. I can't tell you how to measure the pressure but if you unhook the skinny hard line by the piston cover it should flow a ton of oil when you turn the engine over.

great, yes, I will try that. I have a hard time believing the hydraulic pump gave out all of a sudden, but anything is possible

 

[JRaf]

Wait, really? I can use general orings for the cylinder?

Not for the cylinder. I meant all the small ones.

 

[abeconnally]

Ok, I am trying to take apart the cylinder and piston. I removed the cylinder head cover, but I can't get the piston out. Is there a trick to that?