L01 Rear Remote Mounting Panel

TheOldHokie

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When I purchased my L3901 this summer I was aghast at the cost of factory rear remotes and disappointed in the cut-rate outlet kits that came with them so I set out to build a better mouse trap. Here is what I have come up with so far.

The panel is a simple bolt on installation using the existing fasteners for the tool box and top link holder. It is cut and bent from 3/16" steel plate and accepts standard ISO one hand push-pull panel mount couplers. Hinged covers or rubber plugs are available for dust protection. Personally I plan on adding 3 rear remote valves to my tractor so in these pictures the right side is populated with couplers for them. I also have a 3pt log splitter so I wanted a power beyond outlet for it. The left set of outlets are the power beyond hookup - red is pump out and blue is pump return. The knob in the rmiddle is a 3 way selector valve that turns the power beyond outlets on and off and eliminates the need for looping hoses together. To use the splitter I simply get off the tractor, plug the hoses into the power beyond outlets, and pull the knob out to start flow. When I am done with the splitter I push the knob in to shut off flow and then disconnect the hoses. Unused positions get blanking plugs.

In the near future I intend to offer these things for sale along with a low cost alternative to the OEM rear remote valves (still under development). It will be available as a full kit or individual components. For now I would like to hear folks comments on the panel design and any expressions of interest in adding something like this to your L2501/L3301/L3901. And just to set the record straight I am comfortably retired and don't need to supplement my income. I just like to tinker and need something to keep me out of the bars and brothels :rolleyes: Consequently all of these things will be priced WAY below Kubota and lower than quite a few third party sellers.

Dan
 

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ayak

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Very tidy, but you should still be allowed to go to the end of your chain and bark a bit, no matter what. :D
 

UpNorthMI

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That looks real neat and very practical. I learned over time the need to add 2 sets of rear remotes to my tractors. I think there is definately a place for a well put together kit of parts with a well documented installation process. I am pretty mechanically capable but could not clearly understand the parts needed or the correct installation method to add my own rear remotes. My local dealer fitted all of mine either at the time of a new tractor or when I took it back to have more added! Cost for dealer install is expensive and a little prohibitive, I think you will find a bunch of interested tractor owners who will buy well put together kits at a reasonable price.

I hope to have a little more time to tinker in life in the near future. Your tinkering time looks very productive.
 
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ken erickson

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That looks real neat and very practical. I learned over time the need to add 2 sets of rear remotes to my tractors. I think there is definately a place for a well put together kit of parts with a well documented installation process. I am pretty mechanically capable but could not clearly understand the parts needed or the correct installation method to add my own rear remotes. My local dealer fitted all of mine either at the time of a new tractor or when I took it back to have more added! Cost for dealer install is expensive and a little prohibitive, I think you will find a bunch of interested tractor owners who will buy well put together kits at a reasonable price.

I hope to have a little more time to tinker in life in the near future. Your tinkering time looks very productive.
Fully agree with UpNorthMI !
Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.
 

Goz63

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Well I am planning on adding rear remotes to my L2501 in the spring. Was going to do the Kubota ones from the dealer. If you come up with a kit that has the panel for the cockpit I would be interested.
 

TheOldHokie

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Well I am planning on adding rear remotes to my L2501 in the spring. Was going to do the Kubota ones from the dealer. If you come up with a kit that has the panel for the cockpit I would be interested.
I dont want to get too far ahead of myself but I am working on it and I will share some thoughts.

The plan is to use a sectional valve stack mounted just like the ones from Kubota but the handles and finisher panel will be under the right front of the seat next to the position control lever. Easier to build and install. Valve stack can contain one to three sections and maybe a fourth if I can squeeze it in. Initially same valve options as Kubota with the exception of auto cancel. Distributor doesnt stock auto cancel sections and special orders get pricey but it is available as are other options not offered by Kubota.

The valves I have chosen are off the shelf items anyone can order. The idea is to make this all very modular and let the end user configure and purchase a solution that matches their needs and budget without sacraficing the factory look and feel.

Prints for the adapter manifold are drawn and I have done some preliminary test fitting. I have also acquired the first valve for prototyping and I plan to start on the manifold in the next week or two. Hope to have a fully operational set on my tractor shortly.

Still interested?

Dan
 

Goz63

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I dont want to get too far ahead of myself but I am working on it and I will share some thoughts.

The plan is to use a sectional valve stack mounted just like the ones from Kubota but the handles and finisher panel will be under the right front of the seat next to the position control lever. Easier to build and install. Valve stack can contain one to three sections and maybe a fourth if I can squeeze it in. Initially same valve options as Kubota with the exception of auto cancel. Distributor doesnt stock auto cancel sections and special orders get pricey but it is available as are other options not offered by Kubota.

The valves I have chosen are off the shelf items anyone can order. The idea is to make this all very modular and let the end user configure and purchase a solution that matches their needs and budget without sacraficing the factory look and feel.

Prints for the adapter manifold are drawn and I have done some preliminary test fitting. I have also acquired the first valve for prototyping and I plan to start on the manifold in the next week or two. Hope to have a fully operational set on my tractor shortly.

Still interested?

Dan
Yes. My only concern is having the controls under the seat. My primary need will be a top and tilt for the box blade and the ability to have the top link adjustable when hooking up implements to the QH. Both will require visualization of the rear of the tractor while adjusting. Not sure I would be able to see behind me while reaching under the seat. One of the advantages of the OEM is the control panel change out where the 3pt hydraulic level is located. It gives good ergonomics for controlling top and tilt. Also would want to have ability to make adjustments while moving. Not sure that location would be the best under those requirements.
 

TheOldHokie

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Yes. My only concern is having the controls under the seat. My primary need will be a top and tilt for the box blade and the ability to have the top link adjustable when hooking up implements to the QH. Both will require visualization of the rear of the tractor while adjusting. Not sure I would be able to see behind me while reaching under the seat. One of the advantages of the OEM is the control panel change out where the 3pt hydraulic level is located. It gives good ergonomics forp0 controlling top and tilt. Also would want to have ability to make adjustments while moving. Not sure that location would be the best under those requirements.
Thanks - thats exactly the sort of feedback I am looking for.

The levers will come out the front and off to the side by the position control handle. You are not reaching under the seat just down by your thigh. Having actually tried it I think you will find its actually easier to turn and look rearward with your hand in that position. Operation will moving should be even easier. Next time you are on the seat try it. Looking left is even easier. Pictures when I get the valves mounted.

Dan
 
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Fordtech86

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thats exactly the sort of feedback I am looking for.
It looks really good, but just adding this for feedback…it would not work for those of us that have a backhoe. The backhoe seat would hit the panel. Something more compact and off to the side would be needed.

I am following along though.
 

Matt Ellerbee

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That plate looks much better than the after thought Kubota did on the L01’s. That should sell well alone.

In for more pictures!
 

TheOldHokie

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It looks really good, but just adding this for feedback…it would not work for those of us that have a backhoe. The backhoe seat would hit the panel. Something more compact and off to the side would be needed.

I am following along though.
Thanks - again the sort of feedback I am looking for. I am aware of the backhoe issue but not having one makes it hard to design for one. If someone can post or send me some pictures of what that area looks like with the hoe mounted and where the interference points are it would be helpful. It may be necessary to have more than one panel to cover everyone's needs.

Would moving this panel back towards the seat help things out? If so how far? What's the minimum number of outlets you consider sufficient? Six is really overkill on an L01 but this panel is extremely cheap and easy to do and provides some flexibility in placement if you have fewer. Bottom line is there are not a lot of ready to use attachment points on the back of these machines and I was hoping to avoid complicated bracketry.

Dan
 

TheOldHokie

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That plate looks much better than the after thought Kubota did on the L01’s. That should sell well alone.

In for more pictures!
Thanks and my thoughts exactly. I was very disappointed when I finally found out what I was getting with $2500+ factory remotes.

Dan
 
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Fordtech86

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Thanks - again the sort of feedback I am looking for. I am aware of the backhoe issue but not having one makes it hard to design for one. If someone can post or send me some pictures of what that area looks like with the hoe mounted and where the interference points are it would be helpful. It may be necessary to have more than one panel to cover everyone's needs.

Would moving this panel back towards the seat help things out? If so how far? What's the minimum number of outlets you consider sufficient? Six is really overkill on an L01 but this panel is extremely cheap and easy to do and provides some flexibility in placement if you have fewer. Bottom line is there are not a lot of ready to use attachment points on the back of these machines and I was hoping to avoid complicated bracketry.

Dan
I can get you pics when I get home. But when the backhoe subframe kit is installed, that fender support you have the panel mounted to is removed. The back hoe seat will hit the back of the tractor seat when the hoe is attached.
 

TheOldHokie

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I can get you pics when I get home. But when the backhoe subframe kit is installed, that fender support you have the panel mounted to is removed. The back hoe seat will hit the back of the tractor seat when the hoe is attached.
That clears up a lot and makes perfect sense but the pictures would still be very helpful. I will have a look at the backhoe parts diagrams as well.

Mother Nature just delivered another load of firewood this AM so I am temporarily sidetracked 😣

Dan
 

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ken erickson

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If things gel and you start offering kits will there be a different kit for those of us running a Land Pride installed third function?
 
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TheOldHokie

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If things gel and you start offering kits will there be a different kit for those of us running a Land Pride installed third function?
I assume you are talking about the rear remote valves not the outlet panel so no. The third function valve is just another valve in the power beyond chain. For Land Pride and most others the OUT on the 3rd function goes to the pump return on the tractor's hydraulic outlet below the right floor board. When adding a remote valve to the chain that hose gets moved from the hydraulic outlet to the IN on the remote valve and the power beyond on the remote valve then goes back to the pump return on the hydraulic block.

Dan
 

TheOldHokie

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Holy smokes - - guess so! :oops: That storm is starting here as we speak.
We have so many dead ash from the emerald ash borer this is becoming a nearly weekly ritual. They come down so easy it doesn't even take a storm. The bigger one in the picture had two large leaders starting about 5 feet from the base and only one broke off. The second is just waiting its turn. That stone wall is my property line and its just barely on the other side. Next time I see the owner I will suggest a pre-emptive strike. He doesn't know it yet but he got a delivery of firewood earlier today :rolleyes:

Dan
 

TheOldHokie

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I can get you pics when I get home. But when the backhoe subframe kit is installed, that fender support you have the panel mounted to is removed. The back hoe seat will hit the back of the tractor seat when the hoe is attached.
I looked at a few videos of backhoe installation and removal and they made everything much clearer. The operators platform replaces all of the 3pt linkage and eats up all of the real estate back there. I think the back hoe and low hanging rear outlets are basically incompatible. The only location that looked even remotely possible was just inside he ROPS on each side of the backhoe seat. Could you fit a 4" wide x 6" high block in there? I am thinking something like the Grand L uses - see picture. That was where I was headed initially but decided the flat panel was a whole lot easier and cheaper. It also seems that cross member is not really all that important as a fender support which got me to thinking about some other possible mounting schemes for a much smaller panel instead of the Grand L blocks.

I must say I am glad I decided to start this discussion - lots of good comments and it has been very productive.

Dan
 

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ayak

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Pretty cramped for me sitting in that backhoe seat even with nothing on the inside of the ROPs currently. Either my elbows or legs would likely be hitting something if inside the ROPs.