Kubota L35 battery dead

[Jackjasper]

Hello. My 2000 L35 just started having this problem. The battery is dead when I try to start it but when I jump start it the tractor runs fine with no issues.

After letting it run a while and I shut it off the engine will immediately restart but if I leave it overnight the battery is dead again.

If I have a dead battery will the tractor run normally like it does? Where should I start with troubleshooting this situation? Thanks! -Steve

 

[Dave_eng]

Hello. My 2000 L35 just started having this problem. The battery is dead when I try to start it but when I jump start it the tractor runs fine with no issues.

After letting it run a while and I shut it off the engine will immediately restart but if I leave it overnight the battery is dead again.

If I have a dead battery will the tractor run normally like it does? Where should I start with troubleshooting this situation? Thanks! -Steve

You are engaging in a practice destined to damage your tractor. Various electrical systems in the tractor have diodes to protect against voltage spikes. These diodes can be blown by a momentary incorrect booster cable connection or a battery charger mis-connection.

Likely your battery is done. To rule out parasitic loses draining it when the tractor is off, next time after shutting off the tractor, disconnect the negative battery cable. I think you will find the battery still in a weak state when you try and start the tractor again.

It is possible your tractor charging system is not working. A multi meter costing less than $10 will let you measure the battery voltage while the tractor is running. It should be close to 14 volts DC.

Further, expecting the charging system to be continually trying to deal with an almost dead battery risks overloading and damaging the system.

With a car or light truck as an example, you have a dead battery and a warning light telling you the charging system is not working. You buy a brand new alternator. The instructions will include a caution to charge your dead battery and then connect your new alternator. Light duty vehicles' charging systems cannot deliver their rated output continuously and will overheat.

Heavy duty trucks and military vehicles can deliver their rated output forever.

You can take your battery, when charged up, to places like NAPA to be tested.

Before deciding on a new battery, get some spec's and come back here for advice. You don't want to match the old battery only to find out it was too small.

Dave

 

[Jackjasper]

Thanks Dave. I have a multi meter and I'll check it out. -Steve

 

[ckarnes]

Sounds like a bad battery. Could be a big parasitic draw. However, it sounds like your charging system is good. The fact that it runs after being jumped eludes to this. You can check for a parasitic draw if your meter has the option for DC amps. Remove one battery cable and place meter leads between battery post and battery cable. You should have a very low amp reading with everything off, including the ignition, like in the 0.01 range or less.

 

[Dave_eng]

Sounds like a bad battery. Could be a big parasitic draw. However, it sounds like your charging system is good. The fact that it runs after being jumped eludes to this. You can check for a parasitic draw if your meter has the option for DC amps. Remove one battery cable and place meter leads between battery post and battery cable. You should have a very low amp reading with everything off, including the ignition, like in the 0.01 range or less.

I am not trying to criticize what you are suggesting, I just think the meter test is too soon.
What happens if the parasitic draw is large and you have your $7 multimeter in series in the circuit? Failing diodes in the rectifier for example could produce a significant parasitic draw and likely blow a fuse in the meter,
I just feel more caution is needed and by letting the battery sit disconnected over night, if it works the next day then start to investigate.

Dave

 

[mikester]

Sounds like a bad battery. Could be a big parasitic draw. However, it sounds like your charging system is good. The fact that it runs after being jumped eludes to this. You can check for a parasitic draw if your meter has the option for DC amps. Remove one battery cable and place meter leads between battery post and battery cable. You should have a very low amp reading with everything off, including the ignition, like in the 0.01 range or less.

Diesels are mechanical engines and don't require electrical to run...thats why you have to cut off fuel supply to stop the engine versus removing the electrical ignition in gasoline engines. On older machines you can physically remove the batter after startup and keep driving until you shut it off or run out of fuel. Gas engines (non magneto) will stop as soon as their batteries are disconnected.

You could have corroded terminals causing issues but if your battery has been discharged too long its likely pooched. If you can start your engine after boosting the battery I'd suspect your battery is just getting weak and at the end of its useful life.

Check your battery voltage the next morning before start up. Start the engine and compare voltages with the running system. If the cold battery is below 12VDC it's toast. If running voltage is below 13VDC then you may have an issue with the charging circuit or alternator.

"Battery Voltage
1. Stop the engine and turn the main switch off.
2. Connect the COM (-) lead of the voltmeter to the battery’s negative terminal post and the (+) lead to the positive terminal post, and measure the battery voltage.
3. If the battery voltage is less than the factory specification, check the battery specific gravity and recharge the battery.
Battery Terminal Connection
Battery voltage
Reference value
More than 12 V
1. Turn the main switch on, and turn on the head light.
2. Measure the voltage across the battery’s positive terminal post and the positive cable terminal, and the voltage across the battery’s negative terminal post and the chassis.
3. If the measurement exceeds the factory specification, clean the battery terminal posts and cable clamps, and tighten them firmly.
Potential difference
Reference value
Less than 0.1 V

Recharging NOTE
• The factory-installed battery is of non-refillable type. If the battery is weak, do not charge the battery but replace it with new one.
• When the battery is being activated, hydrogen and oxygen gases in the battery are extremely explosive. Keep open sparks and flames away from the battery at all times, especially when charging the battery.
• When charging the battery, ensure the vent caps are securely in place (If equipped).
• When disconnecting the cable from the battery, start with the negative terminal first. When connecting the cable to the battery, start with the positive terminal first.
• Never check battery charge by placing a metal object across the posts.
Use a voltmeter or hydrometer.
1. To slow charge the battery (1), connect the battery positive terminal (4) to the charge positive terminal and the negative (2) to the negative, then recharge in the standard fashion.
2. A boost charge is only for emergencies. It will partially charge the battery at a high rate and in a short time. When using a boost-charged battery, it is necessary to recharge the battery as early as possible. Failure to do this will shorten the battery’s service life.
3. The battery is charge if the indicator display turns green from black.
4. When exchanging an old battery for a new one, use battery of equal specification shown in table.

Directions for Storage
1. When storing the tractor for a long period, remove the battery from the tractor, adjust the electrolyte to the proper level and store in a dry place out of direct sunlight.
2. The battery self-discharges while it is stored. Recharge it once every three months in hot seasons and once every six months in cold seasons."

 

[Stmar]

If it is the battery then when you replace it why not pick up a battery tender and keep it plugged in when the tractor is not in use. You did not state the age of the battery so if it is years old replacing it may be a cheap fix if no other symptoms/problems are detected with your tests, cheap being a relative term.

 

[Jackjasper]

Hi everyone, I've been waiting a week to give you some feedback on the issue with my L35 because my issue seems to have gone away. I've been checking it every day and I have not had any issues since it was suggested I check the battery with a volt meter.

For the last week the engine starts fine even after letting it sit overnight. The cold battery has had a voltage reading at 12.63 and over 13 while the engine is running.

If the battery appears to be fine I'm wondering what could have caused this issue to happen for only a week? I live in New York where the day temperatures have been in the 30's and 40's but below freezing at night.

One last observation: When I was having this issue I tried to cold start the engine after letting it sit overnight. When I turned the key the engine turned over and it was not sluggish at all but it didn't start. I've had battery issues in the past and I know the sound of a battery struggling to turn the engine over and that was not this sound. I turned the key off and then I turned the key back on and the engine wouldn't turn over at all. I then immediately hooked up jumper cables and it turned over and started right up.

I'm sure there's something going on but I have no idea where to look since everything is running fine now. Thoughts please?

Thank you! -Steve

 

[Dave_eng]

Hi everyone, I've been waiting a week to give you some feedback on the issue with my L35 because my issue seems to have gone away. I've been checking it every day and I have not had any issues since it was suggested I check the battery with a volt meter.

For the last week the engine starts fine even after letting it sit overnight. The cold battery has had a voltage reading at 12.63 and over 13 while the engine is running.

If the battery appears to be fine I'm wondering what could have caused this issue to happen for only a week? I live in New York where the day temperatures have been in the 30's and 40's but below freezing at night.

One last observation: When I was having this issue I tried to cold start the engine after letting it sit overnight. When I turned the key the engine turned over and it was not sluggish at all but it didn't start. I've had battery issues in the past and I know the sound of a battery struggling to turn the engine over and that was not this sound. I turned the key off and then I turned the key back on and the engine wouldn't turn over at all. I then immediately hooked up jumper cables and it turned over and started right up.

I'm sure there's something going on but I have no idea where to look since everything is running fine now. Thoughts please?

Thank you! -Steve

Steve
If I understand you correctly, immediately after starting, the voltage across your battery is between 12.6 and 13 volts.

After enduring a starting load, your battery should be charging at around 14 volts. Something is not right!

With the arrival of warmer weather you might be just over the amps required to pull in the starter solenoid and have the starter run.

I cannot find much info on line about an L35 except that it is a loader backhoe. No wiring diagram nothing else.

I suggest you get a LED voltage display. Available in a wide variety of styles and sizes most less than $10.

I am suggesting this one because it appears to be shipped from somewhere other than China so will arrive sooner.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3pcs-DC-0-...334556&hash=item417f4fbf80:g:2xgAAOxyrM5THdSb

I just ordered 6 of this style for all my machines which do not show any charging info. i.e. Riding lawn mowers, ATV, motorcycle.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3pcs-DC-0-...334556&hash=item417f4fbf80:g:2xgAAOxyrM5THdSb

Can you post a photo of your alternator or dynamo please.

Buying a new battery while the charging system is suspect will just damage the new battery.

I don't know what style your engine fuel cut off is. Power a solenoid to stop the engine. Power a solenoid to allow the engine to start and a spring stops the engine after power to the solenoid is cut off by the key switch. It could be that you are operating on the voltage and current limits of the engine stop solenoid when cranking.


Many owners of tractors have had great success using this type of one wire alternator.

The only challenge is fitting it physically to the engine. The wiring is simple and none of the existing wiring is needed.

This $60 version produces 35 amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR...501607?hash=item25e8fa34e7:g:TsQAAOSwzppaQ2~I
Dave

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would say if you haven't changed anything Physically, you had a bad connection or corrosion causing your issue, if the problem returns first check both ends of both cables!
Then pull the battery and have it load tested.