Kubota B7200D Bad Clutch- Need advise on Changing it out.

[metricquartz]

First time ever working on a tractor, I have worked on many cars and trucks before including clutches. This will be my first tractor and I will be splitting it soon to change a locked up clutch, I tryed all of themethods to free it but no luck. Can anyone help me out with any tidbits of information. Do I need to drain the hydraulic system? I plan on using two pallet jacks on the front and rear. Please advise! THANK YOU.

 

[D2Cat]

Make some wedges out of chunks of wood to put on each side of the tractor between the frame and the axle housing. This keeps the engine from flopping to one side or the other when you pull the frame forward to separate.

 

[metricquartz]

I just looked at my Tractor to try to figure out what you are saying and it makes very good sense now that I seen that the axle is on a pivot. Thank you very much for that great advise. Any thing else I should look for? Will I need to drain the hydraulic fluid?

 

[Dave_eng]

The clutch is operating in a dry space which is why the disk has rusted to the flywheel.

There are no free WSM I can find for a non HST B7200 to be able to provide you with an exact answer.

I expect you will have to be breaking hydraulic lines between the pump on the engine and the 3 pt hitch area so you would save yourself a lot of mess by draining the transmission which is where the hydraulic fluid is.

Further, while going to the extent of work that you are, cleaning the suction screen and changing the fluid would be prudent.

Dave

 

[Russell King]

Yes you will be disconnecting the lines across the split so need to drain the fluid

 

[metricquartz]

Thanks I do appreciate all the responses. I feel better starting this job with all of that information.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks I do appreciate all the responses. I feel better starting this job with all of that information.

I have the WSM but its at home and I am on vacation 1000 miles away. If you can wait until Sunday I can scan the pages you need. I have done the job twice and don't remember anything special. Both hydraulic lines must be disconnected along with some wiring harness. I think the steering column and cowl are also involved but I can't remember the details. Whatever it is should be pretty obvious from inspection. Like most jobs a few fasteners are a PITA to get to.

Dan

 

[metricquartz]

Yes, I can hold off until next week I am in no hurry as this unit won't be used until the spring time. I really do appreciate all of you folks helping out on this project. Thanks again.

 

[metricquartz]

Yes, I can hold off until next week I am in no hurry as this unit won't be used until the spring time. I really do appreciate all of you folks helping out on this project. Thanks again.

Hi again,
I wanted to let The Old Hokie
TheOldHokie
know that you don't need to scan and post the pages of the service manual as I looked it over and over and it did look simple so I tried it and it was easy.
But there always is a story and this one is not so good.
Getting inside there was metal flakes all over, I guess it was from the shaft and crankshaft.
The propeller shaft has been banging in the crankshaft for a long time, There was no bronze bushing nor a seal on the end of the crank nor any thing but fine metal particles.
The shaft is in pretty poor shape. Does anyone know of anything that I can do at this point? Even the flywheel has been wallowed out a bit and the throwout bearing holder was hit as well.

I was thinking that the flywheel can get machined to fit a new bearing and turn down the end of the shaft but maybe that shaft would a bit too thin.

Thanks in advance.

 

[kubotafreak]

Holy smokes batman, what carnage. I think a new/used resurfaced flywheel is in order. A new input shaft stub as well. I believe your going to be in that trans farther than you wanted. I expect that input shaft bearing to be non existent. The crank has a bronze lined bushing, even though the picture does not appear to. You can barely make it out, may be able to jb weld the gap that was ate out. There was a shaft seal that kept grease in the bushing that is missing as well. The flywheel shouldn't carry much side load, so it may be usable if you replace all the other components, and scab the crank assembly solid.

propeller input shaft $103
propeller ball bearing ass $132
thrust bearing $58
crank drive bushing $25
Lets just say used flywheel... new is $1400
input seal crank. $4.20
input seal trans(x3) $40

 

[metricquartz]

Thanks for the reply but I was thinking of taking a cheaper approach to this situation that I am in.
Turning down the propeller shaft to 3/8 near the end where the damage is at. It is just about there now. Then putting the flywheel on a lathe and enlarging the center hole to 7/8 to accept a sealed ball bearing.
I would cut an inside grove so that I could keep that bearing in place with a internal snap ring. Opening up the flywheel would also re balance it. I would think that this would work out but I am open to hear any one who thinks differently. Thank you.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks for the reply but I was thinking of taking a cheaper approach to this situation that I am in.
Turning down the propeller shaft to 3/8 near the end where the damage is at. It is just about there now. Then putting the flywheel on a lathe and enlarging the center hole to 7/8 to accept a sealed ball bearing.
I would cut an inside grove so that I could keep that bearing in place with a internal snap ring. Opening up the flywheel would also re balance it. I would think that this would work out but I am open to hear any one who thinks differently. Thank you.

Close to my thinking. No need for a snap ring if you make the bearing a light press fit. You may be pushing the envelope with the reduced pilot on the input shaft but not a lot to lose.

Dan

 

[metricquartz]

Thanks Dan, That is reassuring. I figure if the tractor was running so long without a bearing in there just flopping around in there that this idea has to be better than nothing at all.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks Dan, That is reassuring. I figure if the tractor was running so long without a bearing in there just flopping around in there that this idea has to be better than nothing at all.

Yes. If you have enough meat left on the parts I would suggest a 60002RS bearing over an inch series.

Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

sigh, that's just plain 'nasty' !
Any chance there's enough shaft length to get TWO bearings on ?
I did that with my Millcreek spreader ,made a world of difference in smooooth performance.

 

[kubotafreak]

If you have the machining capability, by all means. Only issue with flywheel enlarging is the pilot hole was the center reference. The crank should support the side loads not the flywheel in this case. I would focus on the pilot hole in the crank snout and the bearing on the input shaft. Also keep in mind the grease just pushes out in short order without the bushing seal. If you could under size the input shaft and find a roller bearing for the crank that would be nice. 3/8” should be a common size, but the crank end machining would be a chore if the od is not right.

 

[TheOldHokie]

If you have the machining capability, by all means. Only issue with flywheel enlarging is the pilot hole was the center reference. The crank should support the side loads not the flywheel in this case. I would focus on the pilot hole in the crank snout and the bearing on the input shaft. Also keep in mind the grease just pushes out in short order without the bushing seal. If you could under size the input shaft and find a roller bearing for the crank that would be nice. 3/8” should be a common size, but the crank end machining would be a chore if the od is not right.

A needle roller bearing will require fitting a hardened inner ring (press fit) to the pilot. I use that technique on one of the hydraulic pump conversions I make. You will wind up with a pilot very close to original size. And you also have the option of using that ring with a sleeve bearing. If done that way most people would never know it had been repaired.

Dan

 

[metricquartz]

Two bearings would fit into the flywheel, but the pilot hole in the crank snout is so messed up and the seal area has been enlarged whereas if I replaced the seal there would be a small portion that the seal wouldn't cover. I do not have any way nor would I even know how machining could be done without tearing down the engine to get at the crank. I could possibly use the two bearings together as
GreensvilleJay
suggested then insert a roller bearing or oiled bronze bearing sized for the new shaft diameter and JB weld it in place into the end of the crank. Is there any way to machine the crankshaft that is mounted? I am a city boy and although I have tools I do not have a lathe, I need to take the parts to a machine shop to get it done for me.
One of the issues with inseting the bearing into the flywheel is I need to keep the OD as small as possible due to the mounting holes being so close to the center hole.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Two bearings would fit into the flywheel, but the pilot hole in the crank snout is so messed up and the seal area has been enlarged whereas if I replaced the seal there would be a small portion that the seal wouldn't cover. I do not have any way nor would I even know how machining could be done without tearing down the engine to get at the crank. I could possibly use the two bearings together as
GreensvilleJay
suggested then insert a roller bearing or oiled bronze bearing sized for the new shaft diameter and JB weld it in place into the end of the crank. Is there any way to machine the crankshaft that is mounted? I am a city boy and although I have tools I do not have a lathe, I need to take the parts to a machine shop to get it done for me.
One of the issues with inseting the bearing into the flywheel is I need to keep the OD as small as possible due to the mounting holes being so close to the center hole.

If you can not do the machine work yourself it is not going to be an inexpensive repair and its time to punt. Replace the propeller shaft - when I did that it was not horribly expensive. Have the crankshaft repaired with a new bushing - let the machinist decide how to best do that. Same with the flywheel - it can probably be bored and sleeved to take a stock seal. None of that is hard to do but will cost money.

Your real problem is that crankshaft has to come out for the machinist. Outside chance he could set the entire engine up on a mill and bore it in frame but my guess is that would not be something they wanted to do.



Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The propeller shaft pilot bearing does NOT go in the flywheel!
Doing so will push the bearing into the pressure plate and or clutch disk!
It goes in the end of the crank!
You need to clean the hole in the crank up, and then install the right pilot bearing/ bushing into it.
If the hole is enlarged use JB weld or similar on it to affix the Bushing in place use a dowel on the inside of the Bushing to keep it clean.
As far as the shaft goes, weld it up and turn it back down to fit the bushing.