Kubota B7100HST-D loader hydraulic lines fittings - Rust?

TerryKing

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B7100HST-D
Aug 18, 2024
135
63
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84
Topsham, Vermont USA
arduinoinfo.mywikis.net
Hi Guys,
I'm about to replace all 8 cylinder lines on my B1630 FEL. I'm concerned about force on the fittings to dis and reassemble. There is some corrosion on some of them. Here's a cylinder fitting:

HydraulicFitB7100HST-01.JPG

These are Swivel end fittings so they have to turn against the rest of the fitting. Should I put some PB or penetrating oil on that section for a bit before putting the wrench on it??

And what do you call this type of fitting that threads into the cylinder and has a jam nut and gasket/washer??

Next here's a metal line to hose fitting:

HydraulicFitB7100HST-02.JPG


Same question. I WILL have two right-size wrenches to support the fitting when loosening.

And: What might I put ON these fittings to protect in the future?? Might do periodic wipe/spray with FluidFilm or Oil??

OK, The hoses ain't BROKE but they really look bad, peeling etc. So I want to FIX them.. Any comments, suggestions, critique welcome...
 

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,812
5,039
113
Eastham, Ma
Hi Guys,
I'm about to replace all 8 cylinder lines on my B1630 FEL. I'm concerned about force on the fittings to dis and reassemble. There is some corrosion on some of them. Here's a cylinder fitting:

View attachment 138958
These are Swivel end fittings so they have to turn against the rest of the fitting. Should I put some PB or penetrating oil on that section for a bit before putting the wrench on it??

And what do you call this type of fitting that threads into the cylinder and has a jam nut and gasket/washer??

Next here's a metal line to hose fitting:

View attachment 138959

Same question. I WILL have two right-size wrenches to support the fitting when loosening.

And: What might I put ON these fittings to protect in the future?? Might do periodic wipe/spray with FluidFilm or Oil??

OK, The hoses ain't BROKE but they really look bad, peeling etc. So I want to FIX them.. Any comments, suggestions, critique welcome...
Let's see a picture of the "peeling" area on the rubber.
Many hoses come with a thin plastic looking outer cover, which has absolutely no effect on hose strength.
You can peel that loose plastic off, if you do not like the appearance.
If the rubber is not cracked, there is no need to replace the hoses.
Your fittings simply have light surface rust.
Prime them with "OSPHO", (Phosphoric acid) and paint them, using a brushed on quality enamel, in the color of your choosing.
 
Last edited:

TheOldHokie

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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
8,391
4,248
113
Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
Hi Guys,
I'm about to replace all 8 cylinder lines on my B1630 FEL. I'm concerned about force on the fittings to dis and reassemble. There is some corrosion on some of them. Here's a cylinder fitting:

View attachment 138958
These are Swivel end fittings so they have to turn against the rest of the fitting. Should I put some PB or penetrating oil on that section for a bit before putting the wrench on it??

And what do you call this type of fitting that threads into the cylinder and has a jam nut and gasket/washer??

Next here's a metal line to hose fitting:

View attachment 138959

Same question. I WILL have two right-size wrenches to support the fitting when loosening.

And: What might I put ON these fittings to protect in the future?? Might do periodic wipe/spray with FluidFilm or Oil??

OK, The hoses ain't BROKE but they really look bad, peeling etc. So I want to FIX them.. Any comments, suggestions, critique welcome...
Compared to mine those are pristine.

The fittings with the jam nut are caĺled adjustable elbows. The swivel is a female NPT swivel. The oring side is probaly SAE oring boss.

The swivels on the steel lines are also female pipe.

When I replaced my hoses I used hoses with female JIC swivel ends and put male JIC adapters on the cylinders.

Dan
 
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D2Cat

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Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,690
5,338
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40 miles south of Kansas City
Spritz the fittings with some PB Blaster. Moving the nut back from the hose end with require a wrench on each and move the wrenches about 10 deg and they'll separate easily.

You're probably being way too anxious about the hose, but it's you tractor and funds.
 

TerryKing

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B7100HST-D
Aug 18, 2024
135
63
28
84
Topsham, Vermont USA
arduinoinfo.mywikis.net
Let's see a picture of the "peeling" area on the rubber.
OK, here's one. Couldn't get light on others in the barn at night, but they felt even worse..
HydraulicFitB7100HST-03.JPG


I already replaced the 4 lines from the control valve to the metal lines. I was looking over this tractor at the auction. They came by and started it up (Hard start; they didnt prewarm glows). In a bit I sat in it, lifted the bucket a little. Then hit the bucket curl. BLAM! A line at the control blew and hit me (indirectly) in the face. They shut it down. When the auctioneer got to this tractor, they said "Can't start this one.. hydraulic line is blown. But it was running earlier". I think maybe that helped me get it at a price I had hoped for :)

I got sprayed a bit, driving it onto the trailer. At home I duct taped it well and it dripped but didn't attack me. It sat in the barn until I could get a couple of car-parts-place lines. THEN I could actually start it and move it a little. 30 seconds of GlowPlug heat and it started instantly.. THEN I felt better.

So I need to build more Hydraulic Confidence..

THANKS to Dan and others for some much-needed education. Still lots to learn.
 

TheOldHokie

Well-known member
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
8,391
4,248
113
Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
OK, here's one. Couldn't get light on others in the barn at night, but they felt even worse..
View attachment 138996

I already replaced the 4 lines from the control valve to the metal lines. I was looking over this tractor at the auction. They came by and started it up (Hard start; they didnt prewarm glows). In a bit I sat in it, lifted the bucket a little. Then hit the bucket curl. BLAM! A line at the control blew and hit me (indirectly) in the face. They shut it down. When the auctioneer got to this tractor, they said "Can't start this one.. hydraulic line is blown. But it was running earlier". I think maybe that helped me get it at a price I had hoped for :)

I got sprayed a bit, driving it onto the trailer. At home I duct taped it well and it dripped but didn't attack me. It sat in the barn until I could get a couple of car-parts-place lines. THEN I could actually start it and move it a little. 30 seconds of GlowPlug heat and it started instantly.. THEN I felt better.

So I need to build more Hydraulic Confidence..

THANKS to Dan and others for some much-needed education. Still lots to learn.
Four new hoses are $80. Its time - past time.

Dan
 
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Russell King

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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,228
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Austin, Texas
I don’t really have a good picture of the fitting but here is similar to what @TheOldHokie is saying he used. The tractor had the block to tap into hydraulics and Dan made the block the fittings attach to (has SAE ports on top, face and ends). These are two pictures of the connection between the block and hoses.

This shows a straight SAE o ring fitting screwed into the block with the hose having a long 90 degree end with a female JIC swivel nut at the end. Using that swivel allows the hose to be positioned in a good direction and the nut tightened up to seal it and hold position.

IMG_3062.jpeg


This is the other end of the same block. Here the hose has a straight end with the female swivel end. The fitting is a 90 degree fitting with the end into the block being a swivel oring end. Notice the nut near the block that allows the fitting to be screwed into the block (if there is enough room to turn it 360 degrees) the the nut is used to compress the oring under the washer and locks the swivel in place. The other end is the male JIC that mates with the hose end.

Also notice that I added some fittings between the tractor and the more vertical hose to soften the angles and bend of that hose to get it to route better.
IMG_3095.jpeg
 

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,812
5,039
113
Eastham, Ma
OK, here's one. Couldn't get light on others in the barn at night, but they felt even worse..
View attachment 138996

I already replaced the 4 lines from the control valve to the metal lines. I was looking over this tractor at the auction. They came by and started it up (Hard start; they didnt prewarm glows). In a bit I sat in it, lifted the bucket a little. Then hit the bucket curl. BLAM! A line at the control blew and hit me (indirectly) in the face. They shut it down. When the auctioneer got to this tractor, they said "Can't start this one.. hydraulic line is blown. But it was running earlier". I think maybe that helped me get it at a price I had hoped for :)

I got sprayed a bit, driving it onto the trailer. At home I duct taped it well and it dripped but didn't attack me. It sat in the barn until I could get a couple of car-parts-place lines. THEN I could actually start it and move it a little. 30 seconds of GlowPlug heat and it started instantly.. THEN I felt better.

So I need to build more Hydraulic Confidence..

THANKS to Dan and others for some much-needed education. Still lots to learn.
You have absolutely convinced me!
Replace 'em ALL!
 
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