heres what happened. I was box blading and the tractor died. I turned the key to restart and there was no dash light nothing except the fuel pump was ticking. any help would be appreciated.
kubota B3350 died and wont start
- Thread starter jat
- Start date
First up check fuses, if you have no dash lamps you probably have no power to the OPC controller which will inhibit your start. I don't have a wiring diagram , do you by chance have a service manual, post a pic of the wiring diagram if you do. Do all the usual checks, neutral, pto, clutch, seat, park brake etc., battery, terminals, ground connections.
Were all the lights normal before it died? Was the tractor in "inhibit regeneration" mode? Could you have bumped the pto lever when you got off, or did you not move before the first time you tried to start it? Could the engine have stalled because your blade hit an immovable object? Any more information you have about the tractor would help.
100td I have a wiring diagram in the wsm for the 2650/3350. Will post if I can extract from pdf. The complete wiring diagram is 11 by 17 and will not reproduce.
100td I have a wiring diagram in the wsm for the 2650/3350. Will post if I can extract from pdf. The complete wiring diagram is 11 by 17 and will not reproduce.
For the benefit of others down the track, which fuse? One also needs to try to work out why the fuse blew?jat said:
See post #5 "It was the fuse... THANKS A TON.. " and repeated in post #8.
Welcome to the forum. The answers are usually here, may have to scout a bit to find them!
Welcome to the forum. The answers are usually here, may have to scout a bit to find them!
Mine is a 2013 and the ECU 5 amp fuse blew today, twice. Tractor had just finished a regen cycle, regen light went out. I idled the tractor for a minute to cool down turbo, then shut down.
Upon starting, drove tractor ten feet and it died. Replaced fuse and go 150' up my driveway and it died again. Replaced fuse with 10 amp (since I'd already blown the 5 amp spare) and made it back into the garage. Snow forecast so I'd like to get it running.
Any resolutions to this problem? Please?
I plan on taking the fuse out, then using an ampmeter to see what the current is (guess I could put the probes on the bare test points on a blown fuse to get the meter in circuit.
If the current is too high (pushing 5 amps when it should probably be less than 3), then I'll unplug the ECU and take another reading. If the current is still too high, it might be a chafed wire or something. But if current drops to zero (no load), then the ECU would be at fault. Well, that's what I'm thinking anyway. Any help appreciated.
Might go to your auto supply store and buy an automotive circuit breaker over by the fuses. It will help to isolate the problem, save money on fuses, and allow you to get home!
Further searching on-line had other's with the same problem, and the cause being the HST Pedal Switch. Ordered a new one, and in the interim, wanted to get tractor back in service.
I removed the switch from the bracket, letting it hang down, removed one of the mounting nuts. Determined that 1/2" male pipe thread will "start" into the removed nut. Used a PVC 1/2" threaded end cap that depressed the switch plunger and then threaded onto the switch male threads to stay firmly in place - good fix and easy too! The I used some hook and loop tape to fasten the switch to a fabric sleeved nearby pipe. I needed to keep the metal parts of the switch insulated from tractor ground, as there is apparently an intermittent short in the switch that was grounding to tractor frame and blowing the 5 amp "Panel ECU" fuse. Tested fine.
And a quick test at a neighbor's house:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4QgtyQy3PY
I removed the switch from the bracket, letting it hang down, removed one of the mounting nuts. Determined that 1/2" male pipe thread will "start" into the removed nut. Used a PVC 1/2" threaded end cap that depressed the switch plunger and then threaded onto the switch male threads to stay firmly in place - good fix and easy too! The I used some hook and loop tape to fasten the switch to a fabric sleeved nearby pipe. I needed to keep the metal parts of the switch insulated from tractor ground, as there is apparently an intermittent short in the switch that was grounding to tractor frame and blowing the 5 amp "Panel ECU" fuse. Tested fine.
And a quick test at a neighbor's house:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4QgtyQy3PY
Nice! The picture makes a nice reference for others in the future. Isn't it interesting what's on the internet.
Last year had HST pedal and/or neutral switch sticking. Felt free but I sprayed lube around switch area and haven***8217;t had issue since with B3350 with cab.
Very good info as I am having the same issue with my 2014 B3350.
Battery is strong. I have checked all fuses, cleaned and checked ground wire and battery terminals but I have had to "wiggle" the HST lever position with my foot to get it to work in the past and thought i just had to re calibrate the sensor position at some point when it was warm.
I was snow blowing for some time and then it suddenly stopped and hasn't started since.
I get just the very start of a starter (just a bit more than a click).
Could you not have just unplugged the sensor and jumper the connector?I thought I could do that to remove that sensor from the equation.
I am dealing with this now in a field in 15degree weather and blowing winds.
I have lurked on the board for a few years and appreciate all the help and knowledge this board provides.
Sharryn
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
'15 B3350, LA534A Loader, Land Pride RTA1258 Tiller, BH77 Backhoe, Forks
I'm having the same problem right now with my B3350 with one exception. It has shut off once before like this, but then after a little while, I was able to start it again. This time nothing, nada.
So my question would be, since I'm not a great mechanic, in which location is the fuse that seems to be the problem child? There is a fuse box on the right side of the battery, and then two smaller ones to the left of the oil filter. I don't even know how to get the cover off or how to get them out when I do. I'm always afraid of breaking something and then I have to have my dealer pick it up and take it to the shop. This costs me about $100 just for that, so I'd like to be able to repair whatever I can at home. And of course, right now I need the tractor more than any other time.
So my question would be, since I'm not a great mechanic, in which location is the fuse that seems to be the problem child? There is a fuse box on the right side of the battery, and then two smaller ones to the left of the oil filter. I don't even know how to get the cover off or how to get them out when I do. I'm always afraid of breaking something and then I have to have my dealer pick it up and take it to the shop. This costs me about $100 just for that, so I'd like to be able to repair whatever I can at home. And of course, right now I need the tractor more than any other time.
Are you sure it was the fuel pump making the noise.
If it was performing a regen when it shut down, it may well have been the reformer.
More information is necessary, e.g., year of manufacturer, fully current regarding updates, etc., to provide much more help.
Did it restart following a 30 minute+ cool down?
Edit: Sorry. Missed the original post date.
SDT
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Our 3350 blade hit and object and died. Sheepfarmer, do you have any suggestions?