Kubota 15W-40 Oil

[BradWalker1981]

Who manufactures Kubota's engine oil? Is it blended by a national company and branded by Kubota?

 

[RCW]

Many say the hydraulic fluid is Valvoline, but I'm not sure I've seen the manufacturer of the motor oil.....

Early on, I switched to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40, a full synthetic. The 5w helped winter cold starts greatly.

I think the manual for many models calls for 10w-30 motor oil.

 

[BradWalker1981]

Many say the hydraulic fluid is Valvoline, but I'm not sure I've seen the manufacturer of the motor oil.....

Early on, I switched to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40, a full synthetic. The 5w helped winter cold starts greatly.

I think the manual for many models calls for 10w-30 motor oil.

I'm about to do the 200 hour service on my tractor. I'll always use Kubota filters, but I'm not 100% sold on their oil. I'm not trying to be cheap, but if it's just Valvoline or Mobil branded as Kubota, I'd prefer to save some money.

 

[RCW]

I'm about to do the 200 hour service on my tractor. I'll always use Kubota filters, but I'm not 100% sold on their oil. I'm not trying to be cheap, but if it's just Valvoline or Mobil branded as Kubota, I'd prefer to save some money.

Brad - -- - Oil and hydraulic fluid topics are common here.

Hydraulic fluid is usually the most hotly debated....there's one going on now. That and whether you should/should not drain hydraulic fluid at 50 hours....well, everyone has an opinion, kinda like everyone has an a-hole...

The consensus with motor oil here is (1) use a Kubota filter, and (2) use any DIESEL rated motor oil your comfortable with.

I never bought Kubota motor oil for my tractor. Betting it's a little pricey. Your tractor likely calls for 10w-30. I never used it.

I did stick with dino-oil at first. Old theory is you shouldn't use synthetic right away....that's from my Harley-Davidson days to set the rings, and I think it's bullshit. I did Rotella T4 15w-40 at first, and my little BX started hard when -8F to blow snow.

I quickly flipped to Rotella T6 5w-40, and will never go back. Your tractor takes about a gallon? $25 at Tractor Supply, can get it at WalMart too?

Now, for Hydraulic Fluid....stick with Kubota SUDT2, because your HST is one damned-expensive part to risk a non-OEM product. That said, some do like an Amsoil product, which is likely more $$..

 

[BradWalker1981]

Brad - -- - Oil and hydraulic fluid topics are common here.

Hydraulic fluid is usually the most hotly debated....there's one going on now. That and whether you should/should not drain hydraulic fluid at 50 hours....well, everyone has an opinion, kinda like everyone has an a-hole...

The consensus with motor oil here is (1) use a Kubota filter, and (2) use any DIESEL rated motor oil your comfortable with.

I never bought Kubota motor oil for my tractor. Betting it's a little pricey. Your tractor likely calls for 10w-30. I never used it.

I did stick with dino-oil at first. Old theory is you shouldn't use synthetic right away....that's from my Harley-Davidson days to set the rings, and I think it's bullshit. I did Rotella T4 15w-40 at first, and my little BX started hard when -8F to blow snow.

I quickly flipped to Rotella T6 5w-40, and will never go back. Your tractor takes about a gallon? $25 at Tractor Supply, can get it at WalMart too?

Now, for Hydraulic Fluid....stick with Kubota SUDT2, because your HST is one damned-expensive part to risk a non-OEM product. That said, some do like an Amsoil product, which is likely more $$..

My local Kubota dealer uses AGCO branded oil. For engine and hydraulic. Is it equivalent?

 

[kubotafreak]

"I did stick with dino-oil at first. Old theory is you shouldn't use synthetic right away....that's from my Harley-Davidson days to set the rings, and I think it's bullshit. I did Rotella T4 15w-40 at first, and my little BX started hard when -8F to blow snow."

-RCW-
I can go both ways on this. Having built many engines, I agree there is a small window to properly seat rings, thus the initial dino oil argument. I think where this gets muddy is whether or not the engine is broken in on a dyno at the manufacture or not. I believe most are now fully broken in before a consumer ever receives it. This would eliminate this past practice. On my builds I run them hard on dino for the first, and never had rings that didn't have good compression.

My only worry for the tractor, or any rig with post emissions, is the buildup of material in the exhaust. I do rest easy knowing that the Kubota oil went through countless r&d for regens with oe oil. However you throw that out the window with off branding. Will it cause issue, more than likely not, but without data of how frequent everyone does regens we might never know. Now for engines with no post DPF, who cares, use the flavor that fits the bill. There is just more to this argument for engines with DPF filters.

To make my point, I'll guess everyone will agree oils burn off at different rates and residue.

We should make a voting thread with hours run, oil brand, and frequency of regens for some outlier data.

Kubota 5 gal oil pail is $100

 

[RCW]

My only worry for the tractor, or any rig with post emissions, is the buildup of material in the exhaust.

'Freak - - - true, and that's where you experts are beyond me.

In this case, Brad had a B2650 listed in his profile, so I assumed Tier IV was not in the cards. I assumed...

Brad, what tractor we talkin' about?

 

[BradWalker1981]

'Freak - - - true, and that's where you experts are beyond me.

In this case, Brad had a B2650 listed in his profile, so I assumed Tier IV was not in the cards. I assumed...

Brad, what tractor we talkin' about?

2014 B2650. No DPF.

 

[kubotafreak]

'Freak - - - true, and that's where you experts are beyond me.

In this case, Brad had a B2650 listed in his profile, so I assumed Tier IV was not in the cards. I assumed...

Brad, what tractor we talkin' about?

I got all worked up for nothing...

 

[Mark_BX25D]

The consensus with motor oil here is (1) use a Kubota filter, and (2) use any DIESEL rated motor oil your comfortable with.

Yep. It's just a diesel engine, not a magic black box that requires a special witches brew and certain incantations at midnight.

Some people have orange paint in their eyes, so they don't see the real world very well, and talk like this upsets them.

I did stick with dino-oil at first. Old theory is you shouldn't use synthetic right away....that's from my Harley-Davidson days to set the rings,

Agreed. I just had a Ford engine rebuilt at a local machine shop, and they hold to that old-school theory, too. To keep them happy in terms of their warranty coverage, I'm doing it their way. It gets 5w20 dino for the first 5,000 miles, just like they want it. No problem. But that same engine came out of the factory with synthetic in it, and synthetic recommended. Seems to work out well for Ford, and every other manufacturer out there, and for their customers.

 

[whitetiger]

Yep. It's just a diesel engine, not a magic black box that requires a special witches brew and certain incantations at midnight.

Some people have orange paint in their eyes, so they don't see the real world very well, and talk like this upsets them.




Agreed. I just had a Ford engine rebuilt at a local machine shop, and they hold to that old-school theory, too. To keep them happy in terms of their warranty coverage, I'm doing it their way. It gets 5w20 dino for the first 5,000 miles, just like they want it. No problem. But that same engine came out of the factory with synthetic in it, and synthetic recommended. Seems to work out well for Ford, and every other manufacturer out there, and for their customers.

I find it funny that everyone wants warranty coverage but complains about the instructions provided to comply for its coverage.