Installing a 5/16" hook on a bucket

William1

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I'm considering welding on a 5/16" hook on my bucket but... I do not want to suffer and 'side effects' from it being there. Going on a 12" bucket for a BX25D.
I'd love to see pictures and suggestions of locations for one or more.
 

85Hokie

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I'm considering welding on a 5/16" hook on my bucket but... I do not want to suffer and 'side effects' from it being there. Going on a 12" bucket for a BX25D.
I'd love to see pictures and suggestions of locations for one or more.
This is the route I took :

 

William1

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Hokie, does that interfere with anything? Grind in the dirt when digging?
The intriguing part of that is it will be there if I have the 8" or the 12" bucket on.

I'd only be using it to lift say a 3pt Implement to move it when the BH is on instead of wrapping chains and hoping they do not move/slip.
 

85Hokie

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Hokie, does that interfere with anything? Grind in the dirt when digging?
The intriguing part of that is it will be there if I have the 8" or the 12" bucket on.

I'd only be using it to lift say a 3pt Implement to move it when the BH is on instead of wrapping chains and hoping they do not move/slip.
When the bucket is curled - and in a ditch - it can scrape the back part of the wall being dug if that makes sense.

It is simply two pieces of 3/8" plate - bolted through the web on the hoe
 

aeronutt

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My dad owned an excavation business for decades. The first thing he did to every bucket was weld a grab hook to the back in the area just below the bottom pin like the first photo in Kenny's reply. Unfortunately, that's right where Kubota puts the serial number tag. It would occasionally rub in the dirt if we were pushing back a pile, but it never caused any problems being there. We used that hook to lift all kinds of heavy stuff like concrete septic tanks and 3 foot diameter concrete culverts without incident. I can't imagine a BX backhoe having enough grunt to break a hook if a Cat 312 wasn't able to.

If you mount a pin-on type hook like Hokie, you're going to cause direct side loading that could possibly cause a questionable weld to let go. Again, with only the limited force that a BX can apply, it would probably work fine, but I wouldn't do it that way. I like the location, but I'd use a hook like in Kenny's pic and bolt it into the location in Hokie's pic.
 

85Hokie

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When I designed this method - the welding was not a consideration that I was worried about - 1/2" plate with grade 3/8" grade 8 bolts. The plate was beveled and triple passed by someone that does a lot better job than the bubble-gumming that I might have done!

This method was created to pull in a direct line with the dipper arm and boom. Someone a while back made a comment on pulling side to side, the damage to the bucket,stick, and boom would be my biggest concern. I have a large tree that fell close to a creek line, the hook allowed me to pull the tree closer, and then lift smaller sections of the tree up and over the bank of the creek.

I used it a couple of times and it worked well - but I have not used it in about 2 years till the other day - wrapped some chains around a MMM and could pick it up and place it on a trailer. It is nice to have a pick point there much like the FEL.

Like Kenny's hooks - I would rather weld to a plate, then bolt, due to the ability to take off and modify or change. Also - depending where you weld - you do create a weak spot on the piece of metal.

If I did not have an AG shop next door - I might have gone a different route.

I made a mock up of the entire thing from wood! and then took the wood over and explained what I wanted - those kids (they have a great teacher too) do some of the finest welding you have ever seen - its like a game to them, who's beads look better.

here is a better picture:

 

Kennyd4110

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www.boltonhooks.com
Hokie, I love your idea and design!
I think it could only be improved however if the hook could articulate freely, that would eliminate any chance of side loading as mentioned by Areonutt.
Just the addition of a small shackle would work:
 

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aeronutt

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Hokie, I love your idea and design!
I think it could only be improved however if the hook could articulate freely, that would eliminate any chance of side loading as mentioned by Areonutt.
Just the addition of a small shackle would work:
Brilliant! It also lets you easily switch between a slip hook or a grab hook. That is the perfect setup. I hope lots of people copy this.
 

William1

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My dealer is welding one on gratis. Wanted to know if I wanted hooks on my FEL too, free if I wanted them! Thanked him but told him I already had Kenny's Bolt On hooks. He said those were more stable than weld on ones.
Delivery is tomorrow.