hydro fluid

[friedtattor]

Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil SAE 5W-30

Shop Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil SAE 5W-30 at AMSOIL. Find premium synthetic oil, filters and more online. Fast, free shipping available.

www.amsoil.com

for those looking for a better hydro fluid. amsoil makes some compatible with kubota 1st time on here i posted link above hope i did that right

 

[foobert]

Amsoil — ya either love it, or hate it for the multi-level-marketing hype business model.

I’m in the later camp...

 

[kubotafreak]

I would hate to know how much 5 gal pail of that costs. And Kubota could still would find issue with it...

 

[friedtattor]

I would hate to know how much 5 gal pail of that costs. And Kubota could still would find issue with it...

170$. about twice what my dealer sells kubota brand for

 

[PaulR]

Meh. It's good stuff I'm sure. But as I get older I realize it's just worth it to pay for stock/dealer parts.
learned this the good way the past 15 years on my old F-150, whole lot of junk parts coming out of those parts stores. They always give you 3 prices on parts: good, better, best......You're lucky if the best one they have lasts a few years. The "good" one usually is broken out of the box.

 

[friedtattor]

well for the cost of amsoil hydro fluid i will just stick to kubotas brand.
i just posted it if anybody was interested, although i do use amsoil engine oil, and other fluids for the past few yrs.

 

[85Hokie]

well for the cost of amsoil hydro fluid i will just stick to kubotas brand.
i just posted it if anybody was interested, although i do use amsoil engine oil, and other fluids for the past few yrs.

Well - I am in the camp of "better stuff will cost more" - I have been using Amsoil for 30 years, and quite frankly the last time I bought some ( about 18 months ago) the price was about the same as buying synthetic stuff at walmart ! so the sticker price is no longer a shock...

and getting back on the oil subject - o boy is this fun - if you change dyno oil in a reasonable time.... o like 5000 ish miles or so, your car/truck/whatever will love you for it. But if you want unbeatable low temp, high temp, almost bullet proof stuff that simply does a better job longer..... well then - you know what you should do.

Can you tell the difference ? Aw..... maybe with a microscope you can - can you see the difference? Maybe a better 1/2 mile per gallon depending on the car/truck. But the wear in the engine will be less and gas mileage will be slightly better, cold starts will be much better ..............

But the bottom line is this ...... any synthetic is better than any other straight dyno oil ..... period! How much better, that can be debated.

But cost is really not a huge factor anymore - but to each their own......... some of us still think that placing straight 30 weight in the their 50 year old tractor is the "correct" thing to do ..... because the book said so.....

just my 2 slickass cents

 

[DustyRusty]

Modern oils can ruin an old engine, and old oils can ruin a modern engine. Best to use what the manufacturers recommend.

 

[Chesapeake]

Modern oils ruin an old engine?

I tend toward Mobile 1 myself, but Amsoil in the rear diff has always done good. I change oil at 3500 to 4000 in the engine so mobile 1 synthetic gets the nod there.
How old would an engine need to be for synthetic to ruin it? I’ve run it in 80’s 22r’s, 90’s 350 bow ties, and 5vz’s, ect...
Now I could understand issues with certain oils and yellow metals in tranny’s, and leaks in worn seals due to the thinner oil, but “ruin an engine”.
Someone would need to explain that to me. Maybe these older engines have brass bushings?

 

[DustyRusty]

Modern oils don't do well in flat tappet engines, that require ZDDP to protect the camshaft from excessive wear. Other than the zinc requirement, they are fine for most engines that were manufactured from the mid 1960's and up. Engines that were made in the 20's, 30's, 40's, and the 50's usually require a single number oil, unless they have been rebuilt to modern technology, which almost no one does. My 1926 Buick used 20 weight oil in the winter, and a 30 weight in the summer, and then a 40 weight once it started burning oil because the rings were worn. One size fits all doesn't work well with engines today. My 2016 Ford Explorer Sport with twin turbo's, takes a different weight oil than my wife's 2016 Ford Explorer Limited, without the turbo's.

 

[Chesapeake]

Modern oils don't do well in flat tappet engines, that require ZDDP to protect the camshaft from excessive wear. Other than the zinc requirement, they are fine for most engines that were manufactured from the mid 1960's and up. Engines that were made in the 20's, 30's, 40's, and the 50's usually require a single number oil, unless they have been rebuilt to modern technology, which almost no one does. My 1926 Buick used 20 weight oil in the winter, and a 30 weight in the summer, and then a 40 weight once it started burning oil because the rings were worn. One size fits all doesn't work well with engines today. My 2016 Ford Explorer Sport with twin turbo's, takes a different weight oil than my wife's 2016 Ford Explorer Limited, without the turbo's.

Several of the synthetic oil outfits make formulations good for flat tappet heavy valve spring engines.
I don’t have experience with pre-70’s engines.

You might consider a good 20w-40 or 20w-50 in your rig. I’ve found oil burn to be much less with synthetics than conventional.

 

[Orange man hero]

Meh. It's good stuff I'm sure. But as I get older I realize it's just worth it to pay for stock/dealer parts.
learned this the good way the past 15 years on my old F-150, whole lot of junk parts coming out of those parts stores. They always give you 3 prices on parts: good, better, best......You're lucky if the best one they have lasts a few years. The "good" one usually is broken out of the box.

A shop wanted to sell me a set of injectors for my F-150 a few years back for $300. Along with replacement cost from shop they agreed to install my net brought set I paid 35 bucks for. Not a peep out of them in 4 years. Work as good as OM injectors.

 

[GeoHorn]

I haven’t read all the replies to the OP in this thread. I’m “jumping to the ”chase”. \
WHY? WHY’. WHY the G-D-Hell do people oppose using GENUINE KUBOTA fluids?

It just keeps popping-up...and is such a simple solution and such a GOOFY logic to do anything else.

DOH!

 

[torch]

I use the Amsoil hydraulic fluid -- because Kubota does not sell SUDT-2 in Canada and I use my tractor to blow snow in the dead of winter.

 

[torch]

That said, Amsoil does not claim that it meets Kubota SUDT-2 specifications, only that they recommend it as a replacement fluid in tractors that require UDT.

 

[kubotafreak]

I use the Amsoil hydraulic fluid -- because Kubota does not sell SUDT-2 in Canada and I use my tractor to blow snow in the dead of winter.

Interesting, so you have sudt only? I believe Valvoline is the oem sudt-2 manufacturer.

 

[torch]

UDT only.

But in Canada it's called "Premium UDT".


EDIT:

I did some extensive comparisons here:

Premium or Super UDT fluid?

Hi all, up here in Canada I went looking for Super UDT2 fluid, as I have read on this forum folks that go state side and import it. I sent an email to my dealership salesman, and he told me that in Canada, the Super UDT2 fluid is rebranded as Kubota Premium UDT fluid. Can anyone here...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[friedtattor]

I haven’t read all the replies to the OP in this thread. I’m “jumping to the ”chase”. \
WHY? WHY’. WHY the G-D-Hell do people oppose using GENUINE KUBOTA fluids?

It just keeps popping-up...and is such a simple solution and such a GOOFY logic to do anything else.

DOH!

i think one reason some of us are apposed to it is that nobody realy knows who makes it or where it comes from plus the cost of it for a few $ more you can get good amsoil or shell or what ever better flavor you want

 

[kubotafreak]

If you dig deep,

"Ashland Inc.

Valvoline™, a brand of Ashland Inc. ( NYSE : ASH), is a leading, worldwide producer and distributor of premium-branded automotive, commercial and industrial lubricants, and automotive chemicals. It ranks as the #2 quick-lube chain and #3 passenger car motor oil brand in the United States "

From a price point, you will find it is the same if not more expensive than just buying
Kubota branded S-UDT2. You will not find the magical 10% additives in the branding formulas...

Word on the street Kubota is using oil analysis to deny claims. Enough reason for me... From the price point I have no reason to object either. For the quality of Hydraulic fluid it is, its not that expensive if you buy in 5 gal pails. My cars all run either Castrol gtx, or Mobil 1 if it matters to you.

 

[85Hokie]

I haven’t read all the replies to the OP in this thread. I’m “jumping to the ”chase”. \
WHY? WHY’. WHY the G-D-Hell do people oppose using GENUINE KUBOTA fluids?

It just keeps popping-up...and is such a simple solution and such a GOOFY logic to do anything else.

DOH!

Geo - not to disagree with what you are trying to say ......... I understand perfectly! AND I am not opposing the use of any Kubota branded oils.........

But Kubota OIL - whether it is engine oil or hydraulic oil are not made by Kubota as you are well aware..... NOW I am going to stick with S-UDT2 oil in my BX25D - until it cost more to fill than I can afford.

But the engine oil ....... is nothing more than good ol Valvoline 10w-30 oil - nothing fancy about it - a great oil that is made by someone else in the oil business and the the bottle is changed in color and the label too and of course the cost just went up due to the orange logo.

A hydraulic oil is made according to the manufactures recommendation - so SINCE Kubota makes their own specific tranny and hydraulic mechanisms, they get to choose what is best for that specific system. Thus few other oil companies will make that oil exactly as Kubota calls for .........

now when it comes to engines - yes Kubota makes they engines .... and Yanmar makes their diesels and so on ........ but all those machines are the basically the same - different specs of course, but compression is more or less the same, and tolerances in the bearings are all the same.

And the kubota oil will make all of those engines purr purfectly !!!! However - as a person that does believe synthetics are a better oil ...... Kubota "oil" is not synthetic - nor does it have anything fancy in it to help a Kubota engine last longer - Where as - Mobil 1 and Amsoil both are synthetic and have been proven to be a more "better" oil by independent labs and others. Does Valvoline make a synthetic oil?

Sure they do - and I will bet you soon enough the good ol Kubota branded oils will be a synthetic blend or better yet a full synthetic just like they moved from the standard UDT - to the S-UDT (semi-synthetic) and now to the full synthetic S-UDT2 ......... I do not know a soul here that has said they would go back to UDT once they have S-UDT2 in their HST and hydraulics .....

Kubota oil is fine - but I have to travel 25 miles in one direction or 23 miles in the opposite direction to get it or order online and pay shipping .......... where as ol Wallyworld has 3 different engine oils - all for diesels .... all cheaper than Kubota's brand and maybe more importantly that store is 2.5 miles away.

Like you - I 'll stick with Kubota filters and hydraulic oils ..........engine oil I will not.