Hydraulic post hole auger questions and Landpride SA-10 owner query

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3 weeks ago we had a good snowstorm and a box truck slid off the road, hit my high-tensile fence and snapped 10 4" round x 6.5' fence posts. The nice thing about a HT fence is that even with the posts snapped, the fence still stands.

In the past, if I had a few posts to replace, I'd just use my trusty 2 handled PHD. However, after a shoulder dislocation from a misadventure, there's no way I'm digging 10 post holes by hand. Have been looking at options for a tractor-mounted PHD and decided that a hydraulic auger setup might be easier for me to manage. Looked at the Landpride SA-10, but cost with one auger is about 10x my annual diesel & beer budget.

I found a towable PHD with 4 augers at an auction - Honda motor wouldn't start and bought it - the hydraulic motor operates at 6gpm, which is about what I've got on my FEL 3rd function. I'm going to cannibalize it to make a poor-person's SA-10. I'm starting out on this forum, because I'd like to get some input from PHD owners about a few things. Then I'll start a thread in the products forum as I move forward with it. Whatever's left I'll list on craigslist for the next guys project.

For owners of SA-10's, the product info says you can mount the unit on a Landpride fork frame and slide it to the left, right or center. for those of you doing that, how do you like it and how do you rate the PITA factor for removing your forks from the frame, mounting the PHD unit and then doing the reverse when you're going back to your fork configuration? Got any photos of the fork frame mounting and moving it side to side? Also, the hydraulic motor swings front to back, but there's a back-stop, so you can curl the FEL and get the auger off the ground for moving to the next hole - does that work well and does it help you line up to the drilling point?

Since this is a poor-person's SA-10, I plan to re-use the existing hydraulic motor mount - just have to figure out the best way to attach it to my tractor. I've come up with 3 options: attach it to an SSQA blank plate, attach it to the fork frame or attach it to a small structure and have it slide-on to the forks. I'm leaning towards the slide-on - lower cost, I won't be setting posts in tight quarters or using an auger bigger than 12" and it would be easier for me (not getting any younger or stronger) to mount/dismount. My vision is to use 2 pieces of rectangular tubing (forks slide into these) with one or 2 pieces of the rectangular tubing (as cross pieces) and then attach the existing mounting bracket (with handle cut off) to the cross pieces. I'd chain the slide on to the fork frame and secure with a clovis hitch so it would stay snug to the frame.

Here's my questions to any PHD owner - are there situations when the tractor isn't square to the ground where it would be helpful to be able to tilt the auger to the left or right so that the hole is vertical and not angled like the tractor? The PHD I bought is on an extendable and rotatable pipe - I could either cut all of that off, or keep some (maybe a foot) to be able to do side-to-side adjustments where the tractor isn't level.

I've attached some photos - original unit, hydraulic motor after removal, mounting bracket, etc.
 

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McMXi

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For owners of SA-10's, the product info says you can mount the unit on a Landpride fork frame and slide it to the left, right or center. for those of you doing that, how do you like it and how do you rate the PITA factor for removing your forks from the frame, mounting the PHD unit and then doing the reverse when you're going back to your fork configuration? Got any photos of the fork frame mounting and moving it side to side? Also, the hydraulic motor swings front to back, but there's a back-stop, so you can curl the FEL and get the auger off the ground for moving to the next hole - does that work well and does it help you line up to the drilling point?

Since this is a poor-person's SA-10, I plan to re-use the existing hydraulic motor mount - just have to figure out the best way to attach it to my tractor. I've come up with 3 options: attach it to an SSQA blank plate, attach it to the fork frame or attach it to a small structure and have it slide-on to the forks. I'm leaning towards the slide-on - lower cost, I won't be setting posts in tight quarters or using an auger bigger than 12" and it would be easier for me (not getting any younger or stronger) to mount/dismount. My vision is to use 2 pieces of rectangular tubing (forks slide into these) with one or 2 pieces of the rectangular tubing (as cross pieces) and then attach the existing mounting bracket (with handle cut off) to the cross pieces. I'd chain the slide on to the fork frame and secure with a clovis hitch so it would stay snug to the frame.

Here's my questions to any PHD owner - are there situations when the tractor isn't square to the ground where it would be helpful to be able to tilt the auger to the left or right so that the hole is vertical and not angled like the tractor? The PHD I bought is on an extendable and rotatable pipe - I could either cut all of that off, or keep some (maybe a foot) to be able to do side-to-side adjustments where the tractor isn't level.

I've attached some photos - original unit, hydraulic motor after removal, mounting bracket, etc.
You can download manuals from Land Pride's website that show various mounting options.

I bought a used Land Pride HD25 Skid/Loader Mount in 2022 that came with 9" and 12" augers. I haven't used it much but plan on making some holes this spring for a pole barn build. I installed it on the MX and had the motor hanging off the offset mounting bracket on the right side since I was close to a building when I was trying it out and that position made the most sense. If access isn't an issue I'd run it on the center mounting bracket to better distribute the forces on the loader.

The motor is rated for 5-12gpm so it's a good match for either the MX or the M6060, but this spring it'll be on the bigger tractor which has a heavier loader and more oil flow that can be dedicated to the PHD.

You asked about installation and removal, and some form of stand would be a good idea, or a hole in the ground. I need to make something for sure.

hd25_1.jpg


ssqa.jpg
 
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McMXi

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You can see the fore & aft and left & right pins for the HD25 in the schematic below. So without that adjustment you'd have to get your front wheels on level ground in order to keep the hole vertical. The spring is there to offset the weight of the hydraulic motor hanging off the side. In theory the auger should hang vertically (bubble vertical) if the gear box, hydraulic motor and auger are balanced.


hd25_2.jpg
 

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Thanks NIW and mcmxi -
Definitely don't want to overthink - this will just be for fence posts on my property - 6x6 would be the biggest thing I do. With a 6gpm hydraulic motor and my B3350, if ever I was setting poles for a pole building or some serious concrete pillars, I'd rent a bobcat with auger. This project was the result of the box truck hitting the fence - I get a new toy, the truck driver gets a break from what a fence pro would charge and I'm not digging the post holes by hand.

I think I'll leave a little section of the black & yellow pipe on the bracket, so I can adjust left-right if the tractor's not square. Once built, I'll drill a hole through it and use a pin with retainer for straight vertical on level ground. If I need to adjust, I'll pull the pin, rotate as needed and us the screw handle to tighten to position.
 

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McMXi

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I get a new toy, the truck driver gets a break from what a fence pro would charge and I'm not digging the post holes by hand.
It's all good. I've dug 4ft holes by hand up here and it's not a lot of fun. Sounds like a win, win and win for you! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Have you seen those tractor mounted post pounders? A couple were up for sale near me a few months ago, but until my neighbors insist that I replace the t-post fence I won't be in the market for one.

I might need to buy a rock auger but will see how far I get with what I have once I start making holes. It's very rocky up here. Do you have much in the way of rocks to deal with?
 

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I'm in a holler across from a creek in So. Indiana, so mostly good soil and creek gravel below with the occasional lunker rock. I'll be packing the breaker bar for this project - just in case. If I get this going, I'm going to take it slow and easy.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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OK, I'm curious.... WHY isn't the 'box truck' owner replacing the poles ? Really, I'm all for 'backyard bodging' but WHY are you doing all the work ?
 

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Good question - the truck owner's going to pay for the repair. I'll be the one to hire out the work or diy. As a general rule, I prefer to do my own work if it's within my capabilities and can be done without risk to life and limb (after dislocating my shoulder, I won't be doing tree work that involves climbing). If I diy, I do it the way I want it done, don't hassle with no=shows or spiked jobs and work at my own pace. I'll have routine maintenance fixing fence and replacing posts as long as I live here. The cost of my new PHD, posts, staples, diesel, plus beer, gin for the wife and a few steaks will be less than the lowest contractor quote.
 

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Thanks for explaining it ! BTW double the wife's portion !!!
BTW remember to add the TAXES in your bill. Had an insurance company try to NOT pay taxes once.
 

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I wouldn't worry about saving the truck company or their insurance money. I would have got a professional estimate and have them give me the check then move on at my own pace.

I get not wanting to deal with hiring people to work and expecting it to be up to your standards.

Why don't just fix or replace the Honda on the unit you bought and use it as designed?
 

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I wouldn't worry about saving the truck company or their insurance money. I would have got a professional estimate and have them give me the check then move on at my own pace.

I get not wanting to deal with hiring people to work and expecting it to be up to your standards.

Why don't just fix or replace the Honda on the unit you bought and use it as designed?
If it was a larger carrier, I'd settle for the professional estimate, their insurer would pay and off I go. I've spoken with the truck owner (out-of-state) - he's a shoestring operation (I've been there) so my DIY quote is materials w/tax, one day rental of skidsteer w/auger and $15 for diesel. My po-boy SA-10 should come in at less than the skidsteer rental quote and I'll have a PHD for the next 20 years of post replacements.

I decided not to restore the purchased PHD for a couple of reasons:

1. Don't know what it would cost to get the original unit up & running - am not a mechanic, so motor would go to a repair shop (probably $100+ to get it running/tuned up) - recoil spring is about dead (more $). Also both tires are beat and flat - probably another $75+ and the 2 way hydraulic valve on the handle looked leaky ... you get my point. So I weighed repair costs (factoring in unknowns) against buying 4 ft. of rectangular steel tubing and the welding (by a shop) for my slide on.

2. Don't want to maintain yet another engine - the PHD will get very intermittent use - maybe once or twice a year in a normal year.

3. Don't want to have to tow it around and then bull it into place - am getting too old for that. It will be less work to slide the PHD onto the forks than swap regular drawbar for the one with trailer hitch on it.

4. Can store the new unit with augers on a single pallet - will take up less space
 
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DustyRusty

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The old expression "The person who represents himself has a fool for an attorney." comes to mind. It doesn't matter if the carrier is a small company or a large one. They both are required to have insurance. If the homeowner does the work, there is a good chance that the insurance company isn't going to pay the claim for what it is worth. You might try getting them to pay you an "estimate" from a licensed contractor, but many times, they will only pay after the work is completed and inspected. Insurance companies aren't fools, and they will send an adjuster out to estimate the damage. He will lowball the costs involved and offer to pay you on the spot many times if you sign a release. If you don't have a legitimate estimate from a licensed contractor in hand, the adjuster is free to come up with whatever amount that he thinks is correct. If you tell him that you are going to do the work yourself and you run into problems, they are not going to give you additional money.
Now, if the trucker doesn't have insurance, any amount that he is willing to pay you is found money, because he knows that even though he did the damage, you would have to go to court to collect.
 

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NI Wolfman - should I continue with my build in this forum or start a new thread in Fabrication & Customization? Want to be sure I'm following proper OTT etiquette.
 

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Thanks for explaining it ! BTW double the wife's portion !!!
BTW remember to add the TAXES in your bill. Had an insurance company try to NOT pay taxes once.
IMHO adding/collecting taxes without sending tax $$$$ to correct government entity is not legal.
 

GreensvilleJay

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yeah didn't quite word it right. Say they offered me $10,000 as the bottom line when it should have been $10,000 +13% taxes($1300), which is $11,300. In the first case, I buy a replacement car for 10K, I have to fork out the 1300 in tax, which isn't fair. Things have changed in 5 decades but I now read the 'fine print'. Well try to
 

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Thanks to all for your input here. I'm ready to finalize my design and get this built. I'll start a new thread for this project in Fab. & Cust.