How to remove broken radiator drain plug

Henro

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I believe the poster said the head is broken off and she is afraid it will loosen on its own at the worst possible time.

She is trying to be proactive and save future grief...
 
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Mark_BX25D

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I'd just add some PVC solvent to make sure it stays there.

As long as it isn't leaking, of course.
 

SidecarFlip

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I'd just add some PVC solvent to make sure it stays there.

As long as it isn't leaking, of course.

Think I'd be careful with any solvent in that area. The lower (and upper tanks) are structurally reinforced plastic themselves.
 

leveraddict

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Personally I would leave it be. Does your tractor have a plug in the engine block you can remove? Thats how I drained mine. I couldnt even get near the plug on mine. Too much in the way!
 

Mark_BX25D

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Think I'd be careful with any solvent in that area. The lower (and upper tanks) are structurally reinforced plastic themselves.

A small dab of PVC pipe cement isn't going to dissolve the radiator. If she breaks the radiator trying to get that broken plug out, she'll wish she had left it alone. The PVC cement is just insurance against it working its way out over time.
 
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SidecarFlip

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A small dab of PVC pipe cement isn't going to dissolve the radiator. If she breaks the radiator trying to get that broken plug out, she'll wish she had left it alone. The PVC cement is just insurance against it working its way out over time.

Just my suggestion and yes, if she cracks the lower tank, a replacement rad will empty her wallet. Kubota rads (and many others today) are not rebuildable. The radiator section is crimped and sonically welded to the tanks so no rad shop can repair them or 'rod' them out if plugged. Why it's very important to maintain coolant service.
 
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Russell King

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Good news on the removal.

I assume that the plug is solid in the threaded section and the water drains out the sides of the barbed section?
 

wgator

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Size 3 straight fluted extractor took it out in 10 seconds, thanks for the help!
Be sure to us a JIS (Japanese industry standard) bit when you install the new one, not philips or flat tip screwdriver. Can't remember if its number 2 or 3 size bit. Likely if you would have used a JIS bit you would have gotten it out without breaking it. Learned about the JIS bit drain plug from reading multiple threads like this one about the drain plug.
 
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Pau7220

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Be sure to us a JIS (Japanese industry standard) bit when you install the new one, not philips or flat tip screwdriver. Can't remember if its number 2 or 3 size bit. Likely if you would have used a JIS bit you would have gotten it out without breaking it. Learned about the JIS bit drain plug from reading multiple threads like this one about the drain plug.
Correct on the JIS... It's a #3. If you use a little silicone dielectric grease on the threads and seal, it won't weld itself in there... and it won't attack the plastic or rubber.
 
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Matt Ellerbee

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Be sure to us a JIS (Japanese industry standard) bit when you install the new one, not philips or flat tip screwdriver. Can't remember if its number 2 or 3 size bit. Likely if you would have used a JIS bit you would have gotten it out without breaking it. Learned about the JIS bit drain plug from reading multiple threads like this one about the drain plug.
Well, I learned something. Had to google JIS bit.
 

Pau7220

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Fact is, when you get done tearing up a screw with a $50 Snap On Phillips head, you can usually get it out with a JIS effortlessly. If you own anything Asian, you should have a set.
 
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bird dogger

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Here's a home made "JIS Bit" that works perfectly. A piece of flat metal that fit the plastic plug's groove real snug, mounted in a short piece of pipe. Hold pressure against it while turning with a slip joint or vise grip pliers. The price was right!!

DSC05788.JPG
DSC05787.JPG


Edit: Maybe it should be called a "NIS" bit.......Norwegian Industry Standard.