Heating/ AC fitting help

Daren Todd

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Alright guys I need some help here. Ordered a mini split ductless ac unit from amazon. Everything was going great with the install until I hit a road block.

The line set will not connect to the condenser out side :mad:

Upon further inspection, I realized that the unit has the same size fittings for the lines. Still not a big deal except for the line set.

The line set has female flare nuts on both ends. 1 line appears to be a 1/4 inch line, the other is 3/8. With a similar size.

I emailed the factory and the seller. The factory was now help. They just keep sending me a PDF file with the instructions on how to hook them up :mad: When I specifically asked for the size/ type fitting, they sent me the instructions again :rolleyes:

Thread is fine versus the course thread on the line sets. And the 1/4 line is way under sized to hook up.

Now before I just tell them to send me shipping labels, to return the unit, they said if I could figure it out, they would refund me around $250 for my trouble.

Now for the size of the fittings on the unit, they are right about the same size as 3/8 npt.



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Workerbee

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Zd21
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Likely metric fittings on the unit and the coil. Maybe find correct fittings at a hardware store and cut your lineset , change fittings, and then reflare the lines. Do keep the lines squeaky clean though.
 

GreensvilleJay

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hmm,the scary part for me ,is WHICH line goes to WHICH port ? 1/4 " and 3/8" lines HAVE to go to the correct port ( one's in, one's out or high pressure vs low pressure ) .

Now an HVAC guy MIGHT have an adapter to pervert the 1/4" into 3/8", well hopefully 3/8" , could it be METRIC ???

If they're willing to refund you $250, this unit MUST have been $$$$ to begin with. The BIG problem I see is when ( WHEN) you get it all connected, ANY problems...they'll bail on warranty...claiming YOU used wrong fittings,incorrect installation, or something.....

I suggest returning it for a full refund, shipping included.

Maybe it's a good thing I can't order from Amazon...

Jay
 

Daren Todd

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Jay, that was what I was thinking as well. I was just seeing if it was gonna be something foolish simple that a heating and ac guy has come across.

It's labeled in the book. Gas is the bottom. And the neighbors son does plumbing and heating. I had him look at it saturday.

It surprised him as well. And then asked if the unit came with adapters.

The inside unit is the correct fittings.

And the $250 would be about a third of the cost.

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Daren Todd

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Return it...those are likely proprietary fittings from you-know-where. By a Mitsubishi or Fujitsu, those have great support when/if you need it.
You would think if they were proprietary fittings, they would have sent a line set that would would hook up to them.

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GreensvilleJay

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hmmm. And the neighbors son does plumbing and heating
OK, can he get it up and running for less than $250 ? Even if he charged you $100 for the fittings, you'd be $150 ahead !
And... will he service it ? Kinda important....
 

Fro65

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Am I reading correctly? Are you trying to connect your line set to the two uncapped, threaded portions of the valves in the pictures?

These, with the allen screws in the bottom, are how you open the valves once evacuated. Your flare connections for the line set should be under the black flare caps.
 

Daren Todd

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hmmm. And the neighbors son does plumbing and heating

OK, can he get it up and running for less than $250 ? Even if he charged you $100 for the fittings, you'd be $150 ahead !

And... will he service it ? Kinda important....
He had no clue what those fittings were. That's the conundrum. It resembles a flare style fitting. Except it has a stainless steel spring inside.

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Daren Todd

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Am I reading correctly? Are you trying to connect your line set to the two uncapped, threaded portions of the valves in the pictures?



These, with the allen screws in the bottom, are how you open the valves once evacuated. Your flare connections for the line set should be under the black flare caps.
Well crap, I figured it was stupid simple. I feel like an idiot now :eek:

Guess I'll tell them I figured it out and claim the $ 250 :) Make the embarrassment a little easier to swallow

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Fro65

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Woohoo! After five years here, I was finally able to help someone else.:D

It is very critical to thoroughly evacuate the system before you open those valves. Mini splits are temperamental that way. I presume the condenser already has a factory charge in it.
 

Daren Todd

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Woohoo! After five years here, I was finally able to help someone else.:D



It is very critical to thoroughly evacuate the system before you open those valves. Mini splits are temperamental that way. I presume the condenser already has a factory charge in it.
Yeah, factory charge. The instructions said there are two ways to do. First is to evac. The other is to crack the joint and count to 6.

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Fro65

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With the "crack and count" method, you are rolling the dice. It will successfully purge the lines of air but not moisture if present.

Any non condensable in the system will cause problems but moisture is the worse of the two. It will freeze at the outlet of the expansion device and prevent proper feeding of the refrigerant. Only way to insure this doesn't happen is to evacuate the system to less than 500 microns, the point at which moisture can no longer exist.

Air, on the other hand will cause high head pressure problems.

Good luck.

P.S.

Mini split systems are real particular about the length of the line set too. There is usually a minimum as well as maximum length. Might want to make sure you are within these parameters.
 
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GeoBx2680

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What Fro65 said ^^^

Also a trick I learned was to put couple drops of oil on the threads before you tighten the flare up. Helps with getting it real tight.
And make sure you get a good cut if re-flaring and deburr the inside of the pipe don't let the shavings fall in
 

Poohbear

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Am I reading correctly? Are you trying to connect your line set to the two uncapped, threaded portions of the valves in the pictures?

These, with the allen screws in the bottom, are how you open the valves once evacuated. Your flare connections for the line set should be under the black flare caps.
I just saw this and you beat me to the answer. Throw the plastic caps away & connect the flares. Put some refrigeration oil on the flared copper before tightening. Evacuate line set to 400 microns then open valves. Easy peezy.
 

Poohbear

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What Fro65 said ^^^

Also a trick I learned was to put couple drops of oil on the threads before you tighten the flare up. Helps with getting it real tight.
And make sure you get a good cut if re-flaring and deburr the inside of the pipe don't let the shavings fall in
For some reason most of the minisplits when you need to make a new flare do not like the flares made by CHEAP flaring blocks.
Do not do that purge thing to get the non condensebles out. R410 is an azeotrope refrigerant which means it's a blend . If you blow the line you lose the different molecules at a different rate . Lose enough and you don't get the charge right. Why on a leaking system I reclaimed , fixed leak , then recharged with new refrigerant.
Also the refrigerant oil , POE, used in these system doesn't like any moisture
 

Daren Todd

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Got everything hooked up and tested :D A coworker actually had the gauges and vacuum. Picked them up this morning. Hooked it up, pulled a vacuum. Then turned the gas on and ran it through the paces. :D



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Daren Todd

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Very nice!!! :D
I can't get over how quiet that unit is. Even with the fan on high and the compressor and fan kicked in on the other side of the wall.

Tested both heat and cool. Both worked. It also has an auto feature that will maintain the temperature. So if your in an area where you need ac during the day and heat at night, it will automatically switch.

The only issue I have with that feature is it comes preset at 75 degrees. And you can't adjust that temperature.



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GreensvilleJay

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I'm real happy , it's up and running !!! Originally it sounded lke it was going to be a nightmare. So...... have you got your partial refund cheque yet ? :rolleyes: