I found a Kubota L235 that the owner says turns over easy, but is hard to start. Price is right, but is "hard to start" likely low compression? Or something worse? Rings, head gasket, glow plugs, slow starter/voltage. Owner has no idea on the tractor hours. It is a good 6-7 hr round trip just to go look.
Hard to start
- Thread starter claya1
- Start date
Can't help but think that "hard to start" will turn into "will not start" when you arrive after a 3 hour drive...
Could be an honest assessment, or who knows? How much do you value your time and gas expenses getting there and back home?
I think before driving that far I would at least ask the seller to send a video of the tractor running.
Could be an honest assessment, or who knows? How much do you value your time and gas expenses getting there and back home?
I think before driving that far I would at least ask the seller to send a video of the tractor running.
With a forty year old tractor you have a world of possibilities. Glow plugs and voltage to them would be the first thing I'd check. A tractor that age could use a glow type dropping resistor to limit the voltage going to the glow plugs. Leads on these tend to oxidize preventing the glow plugs from receiving adequate voltage to heat. Of course the glow plugs themselves could have failed, too. Beyond that it could be rings, valves, head gasket, tired starter, or just poor battery connections. Only your can determine what your time and money is worth to you. The tractor could be a cheap fix or it could be a long term money pit of a project.
Good advice. Seller said it ran great previously, up to 9 months ago. AS of now, the battery is "not great", and it turns over but will not start. They have a second tractor, and do not use this one, so suspect it does not get a lot of attention. Hr meter shows 450hrs, so I suspect the meter no longer works.
Listed it just last night, so I suspect it will sell quickly. Owner has replaced loader seals, clutch, new hyd pump. Just is weary of putting more money into it.
He said he might have time to try to jumpstart it tomorrow. The price is low enough ($4.5K) that even "previously" running well last year is worth the trip. However, I have found that with most of the "low effort" online sellers now, that a little more digging for details reveals enough that the trip is NOT worth it, regardless of the lower price.
But, some seller interaction and Gut tells me this is just a battery issue, but my gut has been wrong sometimes.
Listed it just last night, so I suspect it will sell quickly. Owner has replaced loader seals, clutch, new hyd pump. Just is weary of putting more money into it.
He said he might have time to try to jumpstart it tomorrow. The price is low enough ($4.5K) that even "previously" running well last year is worth the trip. However, I have found that with most of the "low effort" online sellers now, that a little more digging for details reveals enough that the trip is NOT worth it, regardless of the lower price.
But, some seller interaction and Gut tells me this is just a battery issue, but my gut has been wrong sometimes.
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1 You could hem and haw about ether usage and if you suspect he has used it, stay away.
2 Shade-tree check - Put a voltmeter on the battery posts. Then turn the key to pre-heat. If the voltage drops 0.5 volt or so, you know at least one of the glow plugs is working. If no change, something's amiss in the pre-heat system. Either way, there's always the possibility of more than one problem.
2 Shade-tree check - Put a voltmeter on the battery posts. Then turn the key to pre-heat. If the voltage drops 0.5 volt or so, you know at least one of the glow plugs is working. If no change, something's amiss in the pre-heat system. Either way, there's always the possibility of more than one problem.
Can I check for head gasket failure by looking at the oil on the dipstick, or steam in the exhaust? Blue smoke means worn rings, correct? What else to look for? Does the hour meter work when the key is on, or only when the engine is running? How difficult is it to pull injectors to test compression, or do I pull glow plugs on this engine?
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armylifer
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Did I read the price ($4.5K) correctly? That seems more than a little high to me, if it is the tractor that you attached pictures of. The bucket looks tweaked and it has the weathered look of a machine that has sat outside most of it's life. You would have to consider the age and weathering of the tires too. Anyway, the tractor in those pictures looks abused to me. If it were me shopping for a machine I would be looking at something a lot newer and less abused for that kind of money.
Running with 2Khrs, similar looking/abused. These are selling for $8-$12K locally in NorCal the last six months. Not running, with the typical issues ( Need clutch, head gasket, will not start, etc...) $4K+.
armylifer
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It sounds like used tractor prices are going up like used car prices, at least in your area. If this tractor sounds to you like it has half a chance of being a good deal then the drive to look at it in person may be well worth it, especially if prices are getting as high as you mentioned.
To make the drive more worthwhile, maybe you could combine the trip with another reason to go to the same area or someplace that is along the way.
Used car prices locally are on par with brand new cars, IF you can find any. The dealer lots are nearly empty. Toyota/Honda ARE bare. Minivans on ORDER are selling at $7K-$11k above sticker. My wife passed on used hybrids a year ago that are now $10K higher.
1990-2000 era CUT Kubota's are selling at $13k-18K here.
Sellers have been known to lie.
Is it worth $4.5K if the engine is shot?
No, your wishful thinking tells you this is a battery issue.
Your gut knows better.
Get a compression check or don't bother.
$4,500 is maybe what an operational unit of that vintage might bring at auction. Data is your friend and auction sales prices are readily available either on Auctiontime, Ebay or a number of other sources. I would forget about it unless you are desperate. Desperate in this case means deeply in need with a severely restricted personal "balance sheet". Some like a challenge and have the time and mechanical wherewithal to fix things if that's the case I would offer a discount to the wholesale or net auction prices received for similar units. I would discuss this with the seller before embarking on my voyage. Good luck.
Picking up a compression tester in the morning. Remarkably, the 3 diesel mechanics I talked to, none have compression testers.
I have both the time and mechanical wherewithal, Just want to avoid a motor that will require a ring job in the near future. Evidence now suggests the battery, cabling or starter is the culprit. Plus 2 glow plugs are heating, the 3rd is not. Seller sent me a starting video. Turnover RPM is severely low @ ~100rpm. I have been told it needs to be at least 400rpm range for a diesel, that correct on these motors?
Can I check compression in the glow plug hole or does it have to be the injector port?
I have both the time and mechanical wherewithal, Just want to avoid a motor that will require a ring job in the near future. Evidence now suggests the battery, cabling or starter is the culprit. Plus 2 glow plugs are heating, the 3rd is not. Seller sent me a starting video. Turnover RPM is severely low @ ~100rpm. I have been told it needs to be at least 400rpm range for a diesel, that correct on these motors?
Can I check compression in the glow plug hole or does it have to be the injector port?
Followup. Picked the tractor up. Replaced the glow plugs. compression measured 350psi. Low Rpm starting issue was/is a plugged hydraulic line valve. We disconnected a set of lines, and it started right up. Hr meter works, so perhaps 450hrs is accurate. Transmission looks mint internally.
Diesel mechanic suggested it typically is the bypass valve is stuck. Is that the valve just left of the seat?
Diesel mechanic suggested it typically is the bypass valve is stuck. Is that the valve just left of the seat?
armylifer
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It sounds like you may have found the proverbial diamond in the rough. Good for you! Clean it up, perform all maintenance items, change all fluids, and it will probably serve you well for years to come. I am happy for you that I was wrong about my original assessment of this tractor.
Sorry I cannot answer your question about the bypass valve. Someone will be able to I am sure. Good luck and happy tractoring!
Follow, followup.
A bypass piston in the loader shuttle valve was stuck, causing a hydraulic block in the neutral joystick position. This was putting an excessive load on the engine when starting.
A bypass piston in the loader shuttle valve was stuck, causing a hydraulic block in the neutral joystick position. This was putting an excessive load on the engine when starting.