Grapple Tine Length Question

NCL4701

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So, I have this Tar River 72” grapple. Got it with the initial tractor purchase 2 years/230 hours ago and have used (and arguably abused it) a ton. It’s great except for one thing which I’ve addressed to some degree with operator procedure modification (this is the first grapple I’ve used). I’ve decided to at least contemplate addressing it with some modification of the grapple.

The issue is that the lid tines will bend if they have any significant lateral load. They’re made out of 5/16” plate and not very easy to bend back. Takes a good bit of work with a 9lb sledge to straighten them. Working with brush and logs I’m not having problems with bending now due to being careful not to pull sideways with them. Last time I was moving boulders, just clamping down on one that was shaped just so bent a tine. That was irritating but I don’t move a lot of boulders.

Inspecting this thing, the gusset is 4” short of the tip. It’s never bent anywhere other than below the gusset. There’s a 2” overlap between the lid and the bottom (in the bottom two photos the angle iron is laying there just as a straightedge).

My father (who lives 100 yards from me) has a stick welder he can’t use because of his age and a bunch of implanted electronics (in him) that can’t deal with the strong EMF that close. He was never willing to teach me to weld or allow me to use the welder and that hasn’t changed. I kind of thought if he was still around when he aged out, he’d teach me a little bit and let me take over the welding duties but apparently no go. (Love him, but some days are easier than others.)

So welding additional gusset is not entirely off the table but I’d have to buy a welder and figure out how to use it (possibly useful long term) or get a buddy to do it (pretty likely doable, particularly if I cut everything, prep it, and just need the welding done which is what I used to do with Dad until about a year ago). I have some scrap steel, cut what appear to me to be some reasonable templates from cardboard and no problem to cut the additional pieces but I don’t see any good way to bolt them on. Probably going to have to weld any additional supports.

1. As I was looking at it I got to wondering, why is there a 2” overlap? I do use it for brush, but not toothpicks. Seems like part of the solution may be moving the point back about 1 3/4”. My initial thought was shorten the lid tines to more like 1/4” overlap (of course still with a point) and address additional bracing as a second step if necessary. Any downside to shortening the unsupported part of the lid tine?

2. I don’t see myself getting into a bunch of fabrication work. Is it worth getting a welder and taking a class or otherwise learning how to use it for MRO type stuff? I bust stuff now and then but I’m not a farmer or grading contractor so it isn’t constant.

3. I know a bunch of people on here weld a good bit. For maintenance type operations on basic stuff like this any recommendations on a type or specific make/model of welder?

BTW, answers along the lines of “buy a better grapple” or “make your father act like a reasonable person”; I won’t take offense, but I will ignore. Neither of those is happening. 🙂
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mcmxi

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I would go with option #1 and if you need to add gussets, have a local welding shop or friend weld up the steel once you've fabricated the necessary pieces. A good welding machine is a costly investment and it'd be a lot cheaper to pay a welding shop than buy a nice MIG or stick welding machine.

If you lived near me I'd happily help you out with this project since I like doing this sort of thing.

I see no downside to removing 1-3/4" from the end of the tines, and a possible upside is that it'll increase the maximum open dimension while also decreasing the chance of bending the tines.

I have a Millermatic 185 MIG welder and a Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200 which offers both TIG and stick options. MIG is by far the easiest technique to learn, and a good MIG machine will allow you to run flux core, dual shield or solid wire so a very good all around machine. Miller, Lincoln, Hobart, Hypertherm and and a few others would be a good start. You'll pay for duty cycle which as a hobbyist you don't really need to worry about. A 220V machine is a must though.
 
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mikester

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I would suggest don't worry about it and carry on. Fix it if you bend it really badly and can't use it because of the damage. That's the problem with using mild steel in grapple equipment.
 

GreensvilleJay

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random thoughts...
grab your dad's welder and learn, it ain't that hard. If it's a 'tombstone' welder , AC only, buy name brand 7018AC 1/8" rods, store in box(to keep moisture out) . The AC on the end of the 7018AC is IMPORTANT, rods are designed for AC welding, have yet to have a bad weld and have gone throught lots of boxes over the past 3 decades.

all steel once bent won't be as strong, nature of the beast.

don't bash the tine to 'reset', use a pipewrench or pipe and slowly, carefully rebend. go a little past straight as it'll go back a bit

you could add 'plates' to the sidewalls of those outer tines on BOTH sides NOT just one. tack weld in the center, then alternate tacks going to the ends. that keeps it from warping,which WILL happen if you continously weld from one end to the other...

consider welding to be a new hobby that actually pays for itself. really the only costs for you will be those 7018AC rods and maybe an 'autodarkening' helmut. THAT makes a huge difference on how fast you learn how to weld ! May have to have 240/50A wiring added to garage. I have receptacles at both ends of garage, it was cheaper than an extension cord.
 
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NCL4701

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random thoughts...
grab your dad's welder and learn, it ain't that hard. If it's a 'tombstone' welder , AC only, buy name brand 7018AC 1/8" rods, store in box(to keep moisture out) . The AC on the end of the 7018AC is IMPORTANT, rods are designed for AC welding, have yet to have a bad weld and have gone throught lots of boxes over the past 3 decades.

all steel once bent won't be as strong, nature of the beast.

don't bash the tine to 'reset', use a pipewrench or pipe and slowly, carefully rebend. go a little past straight as it'll go back a bit

you could add 'plates' to the sidewalls of those outer tines on BOTH sides NOT just one. tack weld in the center, then alternate tacks going to the ends. that keeps it from warping,which WILL happen if you continously weld from one end to the other...

consider welding to be a new hobby that actually pays for itself. really the only costs for you will be those 7018AC rods and maybe an 'autodarkening' helmut. THAT makes a huge difference on how fast you learn how to weld ! May have to have 240/50A wiring added to garage. I have receptacles at both ends of garage, it was cheaper than an extension cord.
It is a tombstone welder so that was quite helpful. The loss of strength after bending is exactly why I’m thinking I need to do something with it. Both ends have bent about 90 degrees at least twice. I’ve “straightened” by hitting it repeatedly just hard enough to move it to keep the stress low but this bending/straightening crap can’t continue long term.

On the welder wiring, my Dad has it hooked to a 50 amp 220V outlet. I have a 16kW continuous/30kW surge generator with a 60 amp 220V full power output. Any issues running off that (assuming I procure the appropriate plugs to make it hook up)?

The generator probably isn’t the most efficient or convenient method but I would rarely use it.
 

Yooper

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Good advice so far. I’ll add that trying to learn to weld with 7018 won’t be easy. It is my favorite rod so don’t get me wrong, but its temperamental on starting and restarting. I would start with 6013 and after you get comfortable move up to the 7018. And remember, clean metal is your friend.
 

GreensvilleJay

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7018AC is EASY, 7018 isn't....
there's actually a HUGE difference in the way the rods 'work', 6013 'stinks' like burning overalls......
also buy QUALITY rods( brand name), cheap Chinese stuff is,well, miserable
I can weld rider mower decks with 3/32 7018AC, usually 40Amps, plows and trailer builds with 1/8 7018AC.
Yes, steel needs to be clean and shiny.

genny should be fine,just be sure adapter cable is rated for the power.

Jay
 
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mcmxi

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Lincoln has a nice stick welding guide.

Stick Electrode Welding Guide (lincolnelectric.com)

I only buy name brand welding rods from Miller and Lincoln or similar due to issues with the junk sold at places like ACE, Murdochs, Home Depot etc.

I worked as a welder for years, both on construction sites and in fabrication shops. We did 99.9% of projects with two kinds of rod. 6011 and 7018. Welding is a good skill to have so good luck on your journey, whether you fix your grapple and never weld again, or if you jump in with both feet.

By the way, my TIG/stick welder only offers DC stick so I run 7018 on DC+ for everything ... works for me.
 
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NCL4701

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Lincoln has a nice stick welding guide.

Stick Electrode Welding Guide (lincolnelectric.com)

I only buy name brand welding rods from Miller and Lincoln or similar due to issues with the junk sold at places like ACE, Murdochs, Home Depot etc.

I worked as a welder for years, both on construction sites and in fabrication shops. We did 99.9% of projects with two kinds of rod. 6011 and 7018. Welding is a good skill to have so good luck on your journey, whether you fix your grapple and never weld again, or if you jump in with both feet.

By the way, my TIG/stick welder only offers DC stick so I run 7018 on DC+ for everything ... works for me.
Thanks you very much for the document. Looked at it briefly. Appears quite instructive. Will take a hard look at it when I’m not on a short work break.

It would be pretty handy to be able to do some rudimentary work on things like this even if I never get to the point of being willing to post pics of my amateurish work. So long as it stays together that’s all I really care about.
 

NCL4701

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I would suggest don't worry about it and carry on. Fix it if you bend it really badly and can't use it because of the damage. That's the problem with using mild steel in grapple equipment.
Agree with the mild steel comment. If I knew then what I know now, might have gone a different direction. If they had run the tine gussets lower, it wouldn’t be a problem. I’ve noted they do run them lower on newer models. But they didn’t on mine so it is a problem. Despite that, it isn’t severe enough to warrant trading it out for something else. The rest of it is braced sufficiently to work quite well.

Absolute worst case, I could cut them a bit below the current gussets and still accomplish 99% of what I need it to do, and that’s where it’s headed if I bend them once in a while for the next many years, but I think I can do a bit better than that with some effort. The info here has been very helpful.
 

JimmyJazz

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Machines are made to be used. I doubt you will actually destroy it or damage it beyond the ability to hillbilly it back into service mode. Most of my life I have spent breaking, fixing and generally getting things done (not bragging). I wouldn't worry about it. Beat up equipment whether tractors or guitars are the sign of a life well lived in my book.