Getting bolt out of B7100 hub

[jrslick]

My valve stem cracked and my rear tire went flat. I tried to remove the bolt that goes through the axle, but it isn't coming out. I know it is not threaded, as I put this bolt in about 6 months ago. I have loosened the big bolt, the hub wiggles. I have driven it out the length of the bolt with the head on it. I can't turn it, if feels like it is going to snap. I am stuck. I can't drive it out as I don't have any punches that are that long. I drove it this far with a long piece of 1/2 inch flat bar. I am thinking about pulling the fender off to have a better way to pound it out.

Any ideas?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Drive the head of the bolt back in cut off the threaded size use a punch to drive the bolt out, if you don't have a punch, use a bolt that is a size or two smaller and drive it out.

 

[olthumpa]

When you reassemble, put anti-seize on the shank of the bolt.

 

[SteveF]

Make sure the load is off the hub/axle assembly? Agree with Wolfman on procedure... also apply some oil or pb blaster to help lubricate the bolt.

The bolt looks bent but it could just be my view on the pic. If it is bent, step up to a grade 8 or get the correct replacement pin.

 

[BadDog]

Sorry if this is off topic, but isn't that wheel on the back side of the hub?

 

[lsmurphy]

The hub does not care what side of the wheel it's on.


DON'T use a soft bolt again.

 

[BadDog]

Of course not. But it makes a difference which way the wheel is turned. On a light tractor like the 7100 I doubt it makes a difference, but ideally you would not want to clamp over air with those convex hole dimples. But my main point is I've never seen a wheel behind a hub like that. Seems like a real pain to me.

And ditto on the hard bolt. It does look like the bend is what has it trapped. And it seems clear that it is not intended as a shear, so putting a good grade (and brand) of bolt in there sure seems like the way to go.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I too thought that having the wheel on the inside of the hub was a little hokey!
You shouldn't have to go through what he's going through to pull a wheel off!

 

[SteveF]

Well, I thought it looked like it was on the wrong side too but I didn't want to appear dumber than I already am There are so many variants out there I wasn't sure.

 

[jrslick]

Thanks for all the info and ideas, I was able to get the bolt out and take off the hub and get to town for a new tube. I was lucky as it was the last tube, of the correct size, they had in stock. Usually, with my luck, they just sold/used the last one they had!

To answer your questions, Yes it was a grade 5 bolt to start with. Yes it was bent, but only because I bent it by beating on it. After feeding the kids lunch, I was able to come back out and look at it with a clear head and noticed if I tipped the tire in on the bottom, I could easily access the bolt from the outside of the tire. I had a straight shot at it with a punch and hammer. The only problem was it too long and it hit the rim so I had to drive it back in and cut it off, then drive it back out.

About the rim on the inside, I thought that was strange too, but that is the way it was when I got it. I will move them to the outside of the hub when I get the new hubs this summer or if I have time before I will do it prior. That will give me a little more clearance between the wheels.

The more I have this little tractor, the more I realize the previous owner was an idiot! Not just because of this, but there has been other things too that were obviously not correct.

Thanks for the help and information!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You might even consider going to a grade 8 bolt, but when you put it in coat the bolt with anti-seize or at least moly grease.

 

[kubotasam]

About the rim on the inside, I thought that was strange too, but that is the way it was when I got it. I will move them to the outside of the hub when I get the new hubs this summer or if I have time before I will do it prior. That will give me a little more clearance between the wheels.

The more I have this little tractor, the more I realize the previous owner was an idiot! Not just because of this, but there has been other things too that were obviously not correct.

Thanks for the help and information!

Don't be to hard on the previous owner. The picture on the front cover of the Kubota B7100 Operators Manual (and all the pictures inside) show the rear wheels inside the hub. I always thought it looked funny that way.

 

[Dan_R_42]

jrslick, go to your Kubota dealer and get the correct axle pin for the tractor. Don't use a hardened bolt. That will make life easier for you down the road.

Axle Pin: 66621-1716-0
Pin Snap: 62131-1729-0

These part numbers may have been superseded but the dealer should be able to get you the correct part from the original part numbers above.

 

[Piker]

Instead of spending big bucks on new hubs here is how I fixed my old ones - Search Piker for the old thread a few years ago. Still working great.

 

[SteveF]

Piker, that is a nice looking assembly you have there, it looks like the wheels are outboard of the hub, is that so?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

jrslick, go to your Kubota dealer and get the correct axle pin for the tractor. Don't use a hardened bolt. That will make life easier for you down the road.

Dan,
The parts you quoted are for the newer style cast hubs, jrslick has the Old style hubs that require them to be tightened with a bolt, not just pined in place, if he did that they would wobble!

 

[Dan_R_42]

Dan,
The parts you quoted are for the newer style cast hubs, jrslick has the Old style hubs that require them to be tightened with a bolt, not just pined in place, if he did that they would wobble!

Wow, sorry for the bad info guys. Thanks for picking that up Wolfman !!! Guess I should have looked closer at the photo of the hub. How old are we talking here for jrslick's hubs?

My B7100 has the pins I quoted and by my serial number it was built around 1980 to 1981. The parts manual I used is also from back in the very early 80's.

Piker- nice job on doing that mod. Looks like it is holding up great. I have an old set that I should do that mod to also. That is if we ever get to see spring this year.

 

[Piker]

Stevef, yes hubs are inboard of the wheels. Moved them in when I did the repair when I first bought the tractor, & moved them out as far as I could on the axels to set the wheels out as far as I could for better stability.
Split the tractor last summer for clutch work & painted it/new decals while I waited on parts. What a little tank, I use it from April until the end of Oct. when we close the cottage & move home.

 

[kubotasam]

Wow, sorry for the bad info guys. Thanks for picking that up Wolfman !!! Guess I should have looked closer at the photo of the hub. How old are we talking here for jrslick's hubs?

My B7100 has the pins I quoted and by my serial number it was built around 1980 to 1981. The parts manual I used is also from back in the very early 80's.

Piker- nice job on doing that mod. Looks like it is holding up great. I have an old set that I should do that mod to also. That is if we ever get to see spring this year.

Your part numbers are correct. here is a screen shot from the Kubota parts site. What I don't know is if they are still available from Kubota. They show many parts that are no longer available. I think Piker has the best idea. I have 2 B7100's with the old style hubs. I am hoping to find the time to try his idea to convert the clamps.

 

[SteveF]

Split the tractor last summer for clutch work & painted it/new decals while I waited on parts. What a little tank, I use it from April until the end of Oct. when we close the cottage & move home.

Nice paint work, and decals too. Great job Piker! Also, thanks for the info on the axle clamps.