Freaking Auger...

jaargh

Member

Equipment
BX1880V w/LA344 FEL, BB1248 Scraper, RCR1248 Brush Mower, 60" Rock Rake
Mar 30, 2021
36
36
18
southern california
We decided to put in a zip line on the upper field, not a long one just about 160 feet. I figured on 4 foot hole for the posts. I’ve dug many 3 ft square 3-4 ft deep hole for trees over the years so I figured 2 stupid 12” x4ft holes no problem...broke out the one man gas powered auger and fought all the way to about 30” then said screw this.. with a bit more colorful language, went to tractor supply and bought a 3 point auger with a 12”x48” auger bit.. when I got it home I uncreated and assembled it, fought with it to get it attached then eagerly drove down to my waiting hole to dig the final 18ish inches... and promptly got the f-ing thing stuck. So tomorrow morning I will be digging it out... any advice from those who have experienced this would be greatly appreciated!
 

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
3,896
333
83
Williamstown Ontario Canada
Big pipe wrench to let you unscrew the auger from beneath a stone. Disconnect pto shaft.

Forum members who use hydraulically driven augers hanging from a loader tell of the ease of getting their augers unstuck by being able to reverse the rotation direction.

Dave
 
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jaargh

Member

Equipment
BX1880V w/LA344 FEL, BB1248 Scraper, RCR1248 Brush Mower, 60" Rock Rake
Mar 30, 2021
36
36
18
southern california
Big pipe wrench to let you unscrew the auger from beneath a stone. Disconnect pto shaft.

Forum members who use hydraulically driven augers hanging from a loader tell of the ease of getting their augers unstuck by being able to reverse the rotation direction.

Dave
As I was laying in bed last night that thought occurred to me so I will be dragging a pipe wrench and cheater bar down to the hole in a bit(y)
 

mcfarmall

Active member

Equipment
Kubota M5660SUHD, Farmall C
Sep 11, 2013
249
202
43
Kalamazoo, MI
Yep, PHD's aren't like drilling a 1/4" hole through plywood. You have to pump the drill, removing the spoils as you go deeper. More chances to get the auger stuck in tough, rocky soil.
 

Tx Jim

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040 HDC-1
Apr 30, 2013
950
25
28
Coyote,Flats,Texas
As previously stated let auger dig a few inches then raise 3 pt a few inches then lower 3 pt then repeat. Also operate tractor engine at 1000-1200 rpm not wide open throttle.
 

ctfjr

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3800HST
Dec 7, 2009
445
369
63
central ct
As other posters above said, in a little and then pull it up to clear the material is the best method I've found. When I get stuck the 1st shot is a 3' pipe wrench. I've also had success with CAREFULLY and SLOWLY working the tractor back and forth a couple of inches.
I've never had to dig it out.
 

Njtool

Member

Equipment
Lx2610 Cab
Jan 1, 2021
72
74
18
New jersey
You guys are making me glad I got a post hole digger that works off of my front end loaded and 3rd function valve!!!
 

jaargh

Member

Equipment
BX1880V w/LA344 FEL, BB1248 Scraper, RCR1248 Brush Mower, 60" Rock Rake
Mar 30, 2021
36
36
18
southern california
Please let us know how you make out.

Dave
well, once the sun topped the mountain I took my 24" pipe wrench and a 4ft piece of pipe aannnddd..it did not budge! I rocked the tractor back and forth, took a 60" digging bar and ran it down and rocked the bit in every possible direction, disconnected the arm from the gearbox and attached a d ring then hooked up my chain hoist and nothing worked so I started digging... about 18" down I hit a rock, more digging and out came the rock. It was fairly flat, about 8x6 and maybe 2" thick. It would seen the auger threaded itself along that rock and all was good till the auger hit hard clay at about 4ft then just wedged itself under that rock. Once the rock was out I fired up the auger and lifted it out of the hole.The posts are now set, braced up and concrete poured. Looks like I may be getting some counter weight for the back after nearly wrecking with 5 90lb sacks of concrete in the fel... but that is a story for another time. Thanks to all for the info, much appreciated!!
 
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Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
3,896
333
83
Williamstown Ontario Canada
well, once the sun topped the mountain I took my 24" pipe wrench and a 4ft piece of pipe aannnddd..it did not budge! I rocked the tractor back and forth, took a 60" digging bar and ran it down and rocked the bit in every possible direction, disconnected the arm from the gearbox and attached a d ring then hooked up my chain hoist and nothing worked so I started digging... about 18" down I hit a rock, more digging and out came the rock. It was fairly flat, about 8x6 and maybe 2" thick. It would seen the auger threaded itself along that rock and all was good till the auger hit hard clay at about 4ft then just wedged itself under that rock. Once the rock was out I fired up the auger and lifted it out of the hole.The posts are now set, braced up and concrete poured. Looks like I may be getting some counter weight for the back after nearly wrecking with 5 90lb sacks of concrete in the fel... but that is a story for another time. Thanks to all for the info, much appreciated!!
Glad you finally got it out.

Ask for a bigger pipe wrench and longer cheater bar for next Christmas :)

The farmer who owned my land before me used to use dynamite to make fence post holes.

Jamb a big bar in the ground to make a pocket for the dynamite stick and let her go.

Unfortunately, one time the dynamite did not go off as expected and he walked over to see why.

The rest of his life he had one eye. and a lot of scars.

Dave
 
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Njtool

Member

Equipment
Lx2610 Cab
Jan 1, 2021
72
74
18
New jersey
@Njtool did you get the one from Land Pride?
Nope. I ordered it through Everything Attachments. It’s a Digga DDD. 5-12 gpm flow

I got the 9” rock auger too. I’m not sure what I will be digging In, I have lots and lots is holes to drill.
EE1C10FA-EB11-4085-9DF8-E4048EA9E746.jpeg
198EF293-1BD6-45FC-95CA-1C78712C375C.jpeg
 
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flyidaho

Member

Equipment
L 3301 HST
Feb 28, 2017
316
4
18
IDAHO
I have a PTO post hole digger, bought way back when all I had was a Ford 8N. Now that I have the third function valve and hoses setup for some other attachments on the L3301, that hyd. digger looks great. Luckily, I have no more need for a lot of holes, and even better, no rocks, so for my very occasional use I guess I'll stick with what I have.

A quick post hole digger story: moving onto 40 acres of raw ground 13 years ago, a cheap plastic lawn chair with a sawzalled hole in the seat of the appropriate size, and a 12" hole deep as I could get it, quickly solved the immediate need for a place to GO. Throw some sawdust in at every "use," and it was smell free and sure beat squatting down in the woods. 2 weeks later, fill it and repeat in a different location. I have a flush toilet now, 3 of them, (with no mortgage, to put it all in perspective) but to this day every time I hook up the auger I think of those days!
IMG_20210422_161239271.jpg
 
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Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
2,470
150
63
Austin, Texas
FlyIdaho
I know that curiosity killed the cat but...what the heck are you doing in that picture? Is that a railroad tie? What is the need for the post if that is what it is?
 

flyidaho

Member

Equipment
L 3301 HST
Feb 28, 2017
316
4
18
IDAHO
I am transitioning from the buck rail fence I just built along one side of my property, down another end where barb wire is more appropriate. I am setting the first of two ties, separated by 5, that are cross braced, that are my deadmen for anchoring the wire. The tree/brush puller attachment I have (I got it for pulling sage brush, works perfect for that) is also a pretty cool material of any type handler. Setting the post neatly in the hole was easy.
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
2,470
150
63
Austin, Texas
I am transitioning from the buck rail fence I just built along one side of my property, down another end where barb wire is more appropriate. I am setting the first of two ties, separated by 5, that are cross braced, that are my deadmen for anchoring the wire. The tree/brush puller attachment I have (I got it for pulling sage brush, works perfect for that) is also a pretty cool material of any type handler. Setting the post neatly in the hole was easy.
That makes so much more sense now, thanks for the explanation. We base most fencing on eight feet post center and generally the h-brace is also eight feet apart. Why 5 foot space? More idle curiosity.

And I hate barbed wire running and stretching, always get too many nicks and scratches. Be safe