First 5 hours review of L4701HST

CKNPRO

Member

Equipment
L4701 HST
Apr 16, 2021
31
15
8
50
Alabama
I‘ve had the tractor now for four days. (I have a ‘02 MF451 for sale btw 😁)

I’ve used the tractor a little for what will be it’s primary, most consistent use - pasture clipping with a 6’ Woods rotary cutter. I’ve operated the loader and taken both bucket and loader itself off the tractor - as well as fabricated skid steer attachments onto an existing hay spear and pallet fork.

So far, there is a lot to love about this unit!

- I was surprised at the pto power and how well it did that job. It is a slight pto hp downgrade for me but I dang sure couldn’t tell it. It actually felt stronger.
- I LOVE the HST tranny! In fact, that is the overarching reason I got the tractor. After borrowing a friends JD3830, I had to have one like it! It is almost the equivalent change as going from a standard riding mower to a ZTR. But with more benefits, like the ability to gently jog the tractor back or forth while on the ground hooking up implements (I know...”not safe”... not worried).
- I was also surprised at how quiet it is. I always wear plugs when hogging, but I didn’t with the Kubota. Now I probably will from here on just to retain my old ears, but bottom-line, it is quiet!
- Loader detachment: WHAT A BREEZE! My MF has this feature, and while it is not terrible, the Kubota is just much easier and faster. This is the first skid steer attachment loader I’ve dealt with, and that part is probably a wash. My MF QD bucket is harder to line up to get on, but once you do, you don’t have to exit the unit to latch it, it’s latches on its own. The Kubota is easier to line up to attach, but then you gotta get back off....no biggie.

There’s a few things I don’t like already.

- Whoever came up with the 3P hitch lift height stop knob needs whipped! What a POS! Just about useless. I considered robbing the one off my MF and swapping, but I just can’t do that to somebody. I gotta find a better alternative. Suggestions welcome...please!
- I was disappointed that this series didn’t come with extendable lift arms. (Neither did my MF) Being able to jog it with the HST helps...but not as good. I can’t use a QH because none of my implements will accept one.
- Last, but not least, gripe- R4 tires. I’m just not sure about these. I was hesitant to keep them on the machine. Dealer offered to swap to R1. He had a manual shift on the lot with them. They were installed in the narrower stance and I didn’t like that. I also see the value of the wider R4 fronts. We discussed it and he thought I’d be good with the R4’s. He’s an older gentleman and has been in the business here in my hometown for over 30 years, so I accepted his thoughts and took it as it was. Yesterday I was hogging the pasture and went across a patch that tends to stay damp in all but dead of summer, and while I didn’t get stuck, it slid around quite a bit and the tires got filled rather quickly. I was able to spin out, and engaged 4wd to get turned. But this experience concerned me. I didn’t have the loader on and I’m sure that affected the turning ability. But in my old MF 2wd, I don’t as much as spin one tread across this area. I thought I’d lower tire pressure a little and maybe put on the loader to see how it changes. I do have ballast in rears, not in fronts.
I plan on going to the dealer Monday and discuss swapping tires. I think I would be better served with the R1’s, and would be glad to pay labor to swap. I want to like the R4’s. I like the wide stance, lower CoG, wide, stable front tires for FEL work, less turf damage for the times I use it around the house. But I don’t want to have to worry about getting stuck all the time. With my old MF, I can watch closely and if my fronts ever start sinking, I can quickly get out of there and have only gotten stuck once - though I have had to bucket myself out a few times. Usually I can extricate myself before it gets bogged. But the way these tires seem to respond is to spin quickly and pack up. Might get you in a bind quickly. I have worked in rather muddy areas with my MF that I’m afraid I’d be ineffective with these tires, even with 4wd. I just don’t know. ??? What to do ???

I already have a right side handle and bucket level indicator on order. And I’m trying to decide what to do about a canopy...or not.
I’m not passing judgement on the 3PT hitch main operations yet. It has the “upgraded” anti-sway linkage, and it’s usable, maybe not the best, or the worst. Seems to have plenty of lift height, speed and power, is adjustable and reactive.
The seat is good, not great. No complaints. Steering wheel is bigger than I’m used to, but steering is responsive and I love the tight turn radius. Added a spinner and that makes a big difference.
I am interested it seeing what the emissions DPF system will be like doing the regen. I don’t expect it will be anything to worry about, just never had a tractor with emission control system of any kind.

I’ve been driving tractors for over 40 years, all kinds, from small to 150 up. Overall, I am very happy with the tractor thus far. As I said to open, there’s a lot to love about this little orange bugger! It might well be my last unit.
 
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Matt Ellerbee

Active member

Equipment
LX2610 EA grapple, 5' LP cutter and box blade
Jun 27, 2019
299
173
43
Canton, Georgia
Clamping Handle with Threaded Stud, M6 x 1mm, 30mm Long Thread

This solved the terrible 3PH knob on my Lx2610. Maybe yours is the same thread?
 
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CKNPRO

Member

Equipment
L4701 HST
Apr 16, 2021
31
15
8
50
Alabama
Clamping Handle with Threaded Stud, M6 x 1mm, 30mm Long Thread

This solved the terrible 3PH knob on my Lx2610. Maybe yours is the same thread?
This does look very promising. What did you do for the nut side?
 
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Matt Ellerbee

Active member

Equipment
LX2610 EA grapple, 5' LP cutter and box blade
Jun 27, 2019
299
173
43
Canton, Georgia
This does look very promising. What did you do for the nut side?
The handle has a flat for small screwdriver. Once you get nut started, you can tighten from top. I thread locked everything and adjusted to good tension. Let it sit for a day.

Very simple install and works great!
 
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jimh406

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota L2501 with R4 tires
Jan 29, 2021
218
117
43
Western MT
I have R4s on my L2501. I got them because they are a tougher tire for my rocky land, and won’t tear up my fields/yard as much. You can always buy chains. My thought is it would be a rare time that I’d be out in the mud because I don’t want to do damage that I have to fix later. I don’t have livestock to feed in any weather or anything like that. I simply wait until is better weather to do my projects.

If you were able to go through your wet section by simply putting it in 4WD, I don’t think you have an issue. It doesn’t sound like you even had to use your diff lock, so you still had traction in reserve.
 
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CKNPRO

Member

Equipment
L4701 HST
Apr 16, 2021
31
15
8
50
Alabama
I have R4s on my L2501. I got them because they are a tougher tire for my rocky land, and won’t tear up my fields/yard as much. You can always buy chains. My thought is it would be a rare time that I’d be out in the mud because I don’t want to do damage that I have to fix later. I don’t have livestock to feed in any weather or anything like that. I simply wait until is better weather to do my projects.

If you were able to go through your wet section by simply putting it in 4WD, I don’t think you have an issue. It doesn’t sound like you even had to use your diff lock, so you still had traction in reserve.
No, I did not use the foot engagement for diff-lock, but when you engage 4wd on this tractor, you get some limited slip functionality of the rear diff. I saw this fact when I was test driving on the gravel lot. It was in 4wd and I was getting some inside tire scuff. So yes I may have had some traction in reserve, but not a lot more. I do also think that the footprint of the R4’s helped some here as they seem to “float” a little. There was no “digging” either as R1’s would do on extremely soft ground. One thing about the R1’s, if you do get stuck, you’re in deep! Just not sure how I’ll be satisfied with these long term. With the R1’s, at least I have vast experience to draw upon and know what to expect. I don’t do good with “not knowing”
I’ve been bitten before when I’ve “wanted something to work” and initially ignored the little things that bothered me. This might be an exception....I want it to be. 😬
 

tradosaurus

Member

Equipment
Kubota MX5400 HST, Land Pride RCR2660 , EA 60" Xtreme grapple, EA box blade
Mar 7, 2019
92
55
18
Texarkana, Tx, USA
Get the R1's asap. I'm convinced most people get R4's because they look cool.

Unless you have pristeen lawn you don't want to mark up no need to get R4's.
 
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jimh406

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota L2501 with R4 tires
Jan 29, 2021
218
117
43
Western MT
Get the R1's asap. I'm convinced most people get R4's because they look cool.

Unless you have pristeen lawn you don't want to mark up no need to get R4's.
I thought people got R1s to look cool. Oh, and no reason to get R1s unless you plan to be in mud a lot. ;)
 
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tradosaurus

Member

Equipment
Kubota MX5400 HST, Land Pride RCR2660 , EA 60" Xtreme grapple, EA box blade
Mar 7, 2019
92
55
18
Texarkana, Tx, USA
I thought people got R1s to look cool. Oh, and no reason to get R1s unless you plan to be in mud a lot. ;)
I even got rid of the useless turf tires on my zero turn and upgraded to bar tires. ;)
 
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forky

Member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4X4 8N
Feb 23, 2021
68
54
18
Wisconsin
Not much space on the inside of the R4's for chains on the L2501...it's the main reason I kept the R1'S....plenty of space for chains with the track set as wide as it goes. I have a really rocky property also, but didn't give me reason enough to change the tires. Time will tell if I'm glad I did what I did.
 

NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, WC68 chipper, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500 rotary cutter, etc.
Apr 27, 2020
373
253
63
Central Piedmont, NC
Congratulations on the new tractor!

Just went over 200 hours on my L4701 one year after upgrading from a 9N without loader and a Farmall H with trip bucket loader. It was a shocking change, in a good way, and took some time to get used to it.

If you really think you want R1’s and can get the dealer to swap now, go for it. Swapping isn’t just tires, it’s rims too so it can get pricey if you do it down the road. Someone mentioned chains earlier. The rear R4’s on the L4701 are width adjustable so if you want chains and don’t have room you have the option to adjust them out.

Have R4’s on mine. 4WD with loader on, it turns fine on mud or whatever slick sloppy stuff. Loader off brush hogging: one side in a ditch and trying to turn out or trying to turn upslope, it’s helpful to unlock the brakes and give it a little brake steer, particularly if you have it in 2WD to minimize turf damage. I’m aware you should always have the tractor oriented level side to side, but topography doesn’t always comply with textbooks.

The R4’s are a compromise between minimizing damage to turf/ground, a stiff sidewall with high load capacity for loader work, and reasonable traction. They probably aren’t the best at anything but they’re decent at several things. The R1’s on the our older 2WD’s are harder on the trails and turf even though they weigh less. Performance in mud has been acceptable for me. 4WD and diff lock with R4’s is better than 2WD with no diff lock, although I’m very sure R1’s traction is superior tire for tire. That’s the only comparison I have. If I could switch to R1’s at no cost, for my use I wouldn’t do it. For some other uses I used to have back in the day but don’t now, I would. Whatever makes you happy. Not like either one is totally “wrong”.

I don’t know what the PTO actually puts out. I know what it’s rated for, but also know I have a Woodland Mills WC68 chipper that’s rated for 6” capacity but only about 4.5” with the rated PTO HP of the 4701. In actual use it will chip 6” oak, maple, pine, cedar, etc. without slowing down a bit. PTO HP was one of the main reasons for not going with one of the smaller L’s so I’ve been very pleased with PTO performance with chipper, brush hog, and generator.

Again, congratulations. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I’ve enjoyed mine.
 
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CKNPRO

Member

Equipment
L4701 HST
Apr 16, 2021
31
15
8
50
Alabama
Congratulations on the new tractor!

Just went over 200 hours on my L4701 one year after upgrading from a 9N without loader and a Farmall H with trip bucket loader. It was a shocking change, in a good way, and took some time to get used to it.

If you really think you want R1’s and can get the dealer to swap now, go for it. Swapping isn’t just tires, it’s rims too so it can get pricey if you do it down the road. Someone mentioned chains earlier. The rear R4’s on the L4701 are width adjustable so if you want chains and don’t have room you have the option to adjust them out.

Have R4’s on mine. 4WD with loader on, it turns fine on mud or whatever slick sloppy stuff. Loader off brush hogging: one side in a ditch and trying to turn out or trying to turn upslope, it’s helpful to unlock the brakes and give it a little brake steer, particularly if you have it in 2WD to minimize turf damage. I’m aware you should always have the tractor oriented level side to side, but topography doesn’t always comply with textbooks.

The R4’s are a compromise between minimizing damage to turf/ground, a stiff sidewall with high load capacity for loader work, and reasonable traction. They probably aren’t the best at anything but they’re decent at several things. The R1’s on the our older 2WD’s are harder on the trails and turf even though they weigh less. Performance in mud has been acceptable for me. 4WD and diff lock with R4’s is better than 2WD with no diff lock, although I’m very sure R1’s traction is superior tire for tire. That’s the only comparison I have. If I could switch to R1’s at no cost, for my use I wouldn’t do it. For some other uses I used to have back in the day but don’t now, I would. Whatever makes you happy. Not like either one is totally “wrong”.

I don’t know what the PTO actually puts out. I know what it’s rated for, but also know I have a Woodland Mills WC68 chipper that’s rated for 6” capacity but only about 4.5” with the rated PTO HP of the 4701. In actual use it will chip 6” oak, maple, pine, cedar, etc. without slowing down a bit. PTO HP was one of the main reasons for not going with one of the smaller L’s so I’ve been very pleased with PTO performance with chipper, brush hog, and generator.

Again, congratulations. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I’ve enjoyed mine.
I am known to be wishy-washy before I make a decision and often suffer from “buyers-remorse.” I’m not remorseful on this tractor as a whole. It’s mainly because I just have no experience with these tires. I spoke with a good friend of mine who has a JD roughly equivalent tractor - 50hp, HST, 4wd CUT with R4 tires. I know his place, he has a lot of low ground that stays wet often. His statement was he has never had any problems he couldn’t get out of. In fact, he said he is in need of new tires and will get some more like them. He likes the wider stance and uses it in the yard quite a bit too. All in all, a pretty glowing review.

So I got on mine again this afternoon. First thing I did was check air pressure in the tires. Front was at 45#! Guy at the dealer said they put 35# in them....guess he can’t read a gauge. Said they put 15# in rears. More like 20. So I dropped the fronts to 25# and the rears to 12#. Got much better tread contact on front yet no bulging. Rear still looks a little less than optimal contact, but I’m a little on going lower. Put the loader back on and did some hogging. I did some areas that I knew would be a little slick and I could tell I was getting much better traction. I did a piece off the pond dam that is a steep side hill and it performed well there.
There was one place on the flat ground where it was still wet on top and I started getting some wheel slip in 2wd, so I purposefully hammered it and spun the tires. They filled up in a couple of turns and were basically slicks. You couldn’t spin the mud out. So I stopped, engaged 4wd and walked right out. Once again I think the R4‘s “floated” and did not keep digging, which may be a good thing...until I get into a real boggy place and they sink from weight. Then I’ll be screwed.😁 All and all, I felt better about them than before. Except I will say they are a rougher ride with the stiff sidewalls than R1’s. Highballing across the pasture can be pretty rough on you.

If I change, the rear R1‘s for this tractor are the same size as my MF. It is not a narrow tire. The R1 fronts are 8”, only 2” narrower than the R4. I guess I’m still leaning toward changing if I can make it happen. But if I can’t, I think I can tolerate these just fine. My only concern might be feeding hay this winter when the pasture is always muddy and slick, especially around the hay ring.
 
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UpNorthMI

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3200, L3901, MX5800, SVL75-2, KX040
May 12, 2020
598
320
63
Up North, MI
I am known to be wishy-washy before I make a decision and often suffer from “buyers-remorse.” I’m not remorseful on this tractor as a whole. It’s mainly because I just have no experience with these tires. I spoke with a good friend of mine who has a JD roughly equivalent tractor - 50hp, HST, 4wd CUT with R4 tires. I know his place, he has a lot of low ground that stays wet often. His statement was he has never had any problems he couldn’t get out of. In fact, he said he is in need of new tires and will get some more like them. He likes the wider stance and uses it in the yard quite a bit too. All in all, a pretty glowing review.

So I got on mine again this afternoon. First thing I did was check air pressure in the tires. Front was at 45#! Guy at the dealer said they put 35# in them....guess he can’t read a gauge. Said they put 15# in rears. More like 20. So I dropped the fronts to 25# and the rears to 12#. Got much better tread contact on front yet no bulging. Rear still looks a little less than optimal contact, but I’m a little on going lower. Put the loader back on and did some hogging. I did some areas that I knew would be a little slick and I could tell I was getting much better traction. I did a piece off the pond dam that is a steep side hill and it performed well there.
There was one place on the flat ground where it was still wet on top and I started getting some wheel slip in 2wd, so I purposefully hammered it and spun the tires. They filled up in a couple of turns and were basically slicks. You couldn’t spin the mud out. So I stopped, engaged 4wd and walked right out. Once again I think the R4‘s “floated” and did not keep digging, which may be a good thing...until I get into a real boggy place and they sink from weight. Then I’ll be screwed.😁 All and all, I felt better about them than before. Except I will say they are a rougher ride with the stiff sidewalls than R1’s. Highballing across the pasture can be pretty rough on you.

If I change, the rear R1‘s for this tractor are the same size as my MF. It is not a narrow tire. The R1 fronts are 8”, only 2” narrower than the R4. I guess I’m still leaning toward changing if I can make it happen. But if I can’t, I think I can tolerate these just fine. My only concern might be feeding hay this winter when the pasture is always muddy and slick, especially around the hay ring.
It sounds like this is not a tractor that lives in a yard and that you are very active in your pasture and fields. If you can get the dealer to change them to R1 ag tires, you should. It sounds as if you will have a lot less concerns with R1 tires.
 
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CKNPRO

Member

Equipment
L4701 HST
Apr 16, 2021
31
15
8
50
Alabama
It sounds like this is not a tractor that lives in a yard and that you are very active in your pasture and fields. If you can get the dealer to change them to R1 ag tires, you should. It sounds as if you will have a lot less concerns with R1 tires.
My gut feelings agree. Both are 6 ply tires, but I know R1’s have taller, softer sidewalls and will ride better in the pasture. I’ve only complained about them on my Massey in the yard once after days of rain and my own thoughtlessness. I used to mow the whole place with it and a finish mower. I going this morning to see what can be done. If he won’t play, then I may have a set of R4’s for sale with less than 10 hrs on them.
 

edisonck

New member

Equipment
MX5800, RCR1872 Rotary Cutter, DH2596 Disc Harrow
Mar 9, 2020
28
2
1
Chaska, MN
I wrote a novel on the R4 vs R1 in the 'tires' forum. Bottom line for me... There is no comparison in the performance between my MX5800 with R1s vs R4s. I have hills and clay soil. Plus, I pull ground engaging implements. However, the dealer pushed the R4's on me AND they were a $500 upcharge. What a mistake... It cost me $1K to get R1's. However, that was one of the best $1k's I have spent- I just wish it wasn't a 'lessoned learned' situation.
 
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nbryan

Active member

Equipment
B2650HSD ROPS BH77 LA534A 54" Martatch 42" forks B2782B WC68 BB1560 M5-4 hog
Jan 3, 2019
526
230
43
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
I've been spinning in wet mud pulling a trailer load through, up to the axles, in my B2650 with R4s, treads packed fully with mud, and never had an issue getting stuck. 4WD and diff lock, 1st gear and higher rpms, she slowed but never stuck. I really like the R4s versatility.
 

Bark

Member

Equipment
L4701/FM2560LA765/BB2560Case disk Titan P forks
Feb 18, 2020
104
6
18
North CA
Really like mine. It replaced our 9N and AC model M crawler.
Recently I made a post with some pictures about the 50hr service and how glad I was that others had posted info on it.
I would have been really frustrated without their info.
Some good people and info on this site.