D950 help.

[Rustbucket78]

I'm rebuilding a d950, putting new liners in cause the old ones was wore bad, was wandering if the new ones need to be glued in with something like loctite or nothing at all? Also was wandering if there's a certain height on the liner to the block deck height or if just it being flush will work. Thanks.

 

[85Hokie]

I have heard of people placing the liners in a freezer over night ...... thus reducing the diameter a smidge and have seen them go in - no adhesive needed. As for the offset at the top .... not sure about that, but thinking flush too.

 

[Rustbucket78]

Thank you ,that's my plan to freeze them and heat the block, wasnt sure bout them just staying in place though.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You will have to have the liners pressed in, they WILL NOT DROP IN, no matter how much you cool them or heat the block..
You will also have to have the sleeves bored after install as they are not finished dimensioned.

 

[Rustbucket78]

Thanks wolfman, would a regular ol manual hydraulic press work? If so what would be the technique? I know ill have to take it and have it bored just trying to do as much as possible myself. Would also like to say thanks to you and this site without it I'd still be scratching my head.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would let the machine shop that is going to bore it do the uninstall ( getting the old sleeves out can be an issue all it's own) and new install, with the right setup its painless and non damaging.

I have a lot of tools and the few times I've done it myself, I've had mixed results, lets just say it cost me much more in the long run.

If you really dead set on doing it yourself:
You'll need a sleeve puller, some rental places will have them, but most won't have the pucks that are small enough to fit that engine, I made my own.
You heat up the block (completely stripped of all parts) ( BBQ grill works or and old oven) with the puller in place on a sleeve then quench the sleave and us the puller quick.
Most factory sleeves are in really tight.
I've also seen them needing to be just cut out.

To install, you use the puller as an installer too.
Option is to heat block again, I don't as it just warms the sleeves to quickly (they are very thin).
Heat Block (around 180 degrees) , install tool then pull sleeves out of freezer ( dry ice bin works better), start sleeve, if you get 1000% luck they will fit right in but don't count on it.
If while installing they build too much pressure, you'll need to pack the center of the sleeve with dry ice again to get it to shrink.
I don't recommend a manual or hydraulic press as the slightest variation in angle and it will shatter the sleeve.
And the metal they use becomes shrapnel! Not pretty!

 

[GeoHorn]

OK... firstly... this was on N-FORD tractor... but I’ll imagine it’s gotta be similar...

I’ve used a screwdriver to split the sleeves...(not the most-recommended method but I had no problem whatsoever that way).... And I’ve also used a MIG welder to run a bead down the inside of the sleeve, which SHRINKS the sleeve and it almost FELL out!

I drove new sleeves in using a simple block of wood and a mallet, with no problem whatsoever. Flush fit on top of the block. I first used a cylinder hone to clean up the block lightly before installing the new sleeves.

Ran the last one 15 years with no further trouble and gave the tractor back to the previous owner, who recently sold it for a handy “profit”. LOL

 

[Rustbucket78]

OK... firstly... this was on N-FORD tractor... but I’ll imagine it’s gotta be similar...

I’ve used a screwdriver to split the sleeves...(not the most-recommended method but I had no problem whatsoever that way).... And I’ve also used a MIG welder to run a bead down the inside of the sleeve, which SHRINKS the sleeve and it almost FELL out!

I drove new sleeves in using a simple block of wood and a mallet, with no problem whatsoever. Flush fit on top of the block. I first used a cylinder hone to clean up the block lightly before installing the new sleeves.

Ran the last one 15 years with no further trouble and gave the tractor back to the previous owner, who recently sold it for a handy “profit”. LOL

 

[Rustbucket78]

I already took the sleeves out myself with a modified screwdriver and hammer little scratch down each cylinder not deep enough to harm anything, since I gotta take it and have it bored to spec prolly just have them install the sleeves too, suppose to get my rebuild kit tomorrow from Kumar, thanks for all you guys help and advice.

 

[Rustbucket78]

Anyone know where to get a clutch alignment tool for b7200hste?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can use a dowel to do it or just eye ball it.
The tolerances are such that it's not as critical as an automobile.

 

[Rustbucket78]

Very nice! Thanks. What would be the best engine assembly lube for the rebuild?

 

[GeoHorn]

Very nice! Thanks. What would be the best engine assembly lube for the rebuild?

Lycoming aircraft engines recommends 15% STP mixed with SAE 50 engine oil For a “make your own” pre-lube/assy-lube. Otherwise, when I worked for an aircraft engine assembly-line we used a product known as “LubriPlate”. Ten-dollars per tube at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-L...ocphy=1026201&hvtargid=pla-569710065759&psc=1

If assembling an entire engine you might need more than a small tube, in which small tub is also available:https://www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-L...p/B0876H4TGT/ref=psdc_401536011_t2_B000HZJFE0

 

[D2Cat]

Anyone know where to get a clutch alignment tool for b7200hste?

I've made them as needed. Use a wooden dowel. If it needs to be larger diameter, wrap it with black tape until it suits you! Doesn't have to fit tight, just not too lose, so it will slide without interference.

 

[Rustbucket78]

Thanks