What does everyone use for ferrules? My 16 foot tandem needs rewiring. The ones commonly available have seams in them that lead to bad crimps if not oriented properly.
Crimping ferrule
- Thread starter bucktail
- Start date
I do very little and use StaKon insulated butt splices for stuff on tractors. Usually give them a shot of silicone sealant. With the road salt, corrosion is an enemy here
The guy who maintains our 20-some utility trailers at work loves soldered connections with heat shrink tubing.
The guy who maintains our 20-some utility trailers at work loves soldered connections with heat shrink tubing.
Far as electrical connections, I use Western Union style connectors from Dell Electronics. The have the dielectric grease in them already and use a push button crimp setup, by pushbutton I mean a pair of pliers to squeeze the 'button' into the fitting and secure the wire. They aren't cheap but work very well and are 99% moisture and corrosion proof. In lieu of that, heat shrink with dielectric grease added before shrinking and soldering of the ends which are then covered with the shrink tube and greased added. I've seen heat shrink with grease already in it too. Just not lately because I always use the Western Union connectors now.
85Hokie
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
I too like the ol solder joint and shrink.......
I wish I could say I never forgot to place the shrink down the wire first.....
ok, I have done that ......... maybe twice - but not on the same wire
Not sure what is easier - bring the trailer to the shop door or get the long extension cord out for the soldering iron!
I have soldered many electrical connections for my camera setup in the woods. I use this:I too like the ol solder joint and shrink.......
I wish I could say I never forgot to place the shrink down the wire first.....
ok, I have done that ......... maybe twice - but not on the same wire
Not sure what is easier - bring the trailer to the shop door or get the long extension cord out for the soldering iron!
Weller BL60MP Cordless Soldering Iron with Rechargeable Lithium-Ion Battery
it worked very well for me EXCEPT in temps below 40 and with the wind blowing. I was still able to get a good flowing joint but it took much longer.
i7win7
Well-known member
Equipment
BX2370, B2650 grapple, tree puller, trailer mover, 3 point hoist, mower, tiller
Faster recharge time with butane. smaller torch for electrical work, larger ones for wiring repair. Also generates heat for shrink tubing
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You can probably get a wire and LED lights that is already made up and not have too many junction to make up. I found a wire loom that split near the front of the trailer and only junction to make was inside the lights. It was only the four pin system so pretty simple.
I suggest you use marine grade wire and heat shrink with the adhesive inside it for any junctions needed.
I suggest you use marine grade wire and heat shrink with the adhesive inside it for any junctions needed.
Google hex ferrule crimper ratchet
You get what you pay for definitely applies. Soldering multistrand wire, especially in high vibration environments, is not a great idea.
You get what you pay for definitely applies. Soldering multistrand wire, especially in high vibration environments, is not a great idea.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
re: My 16 foot tandem needs rewiring
I assume it's 7pin ( has brakes....?)
I install a '7-way junction box' at BOTH front and rear of the trailer,run 7C wire IN conduit from front to back.Rear lights have short runs of wire,crimped/soldered/HS INSIDE the housing ...then intot he rear junction box. All crimps are solderd(some say 'bad', and heatshrunked. people look at me strange when I say this BUT I've got a 33 year old trailer that STILL has original wiring,functions 100%. Couple new lights ...hay the tree jumped out !
I assume it's 7pin ( has brakes....?)
I install a '7-way junction box' at BOTH front and rear of the trailer,run 7C wire IN conduit from front to back.Rear lights have short runs of wire,crimped/soldered/HS INSIDE the housing ...then intot he rear junction box. All crimps are solderd(some say 'bad', and heatshrunked. people look at me strange when I say this BUT I've got a 33 year old trailer that STILL has original wiring,functions 100%. Couple new lights ...hay the tree jumped out !
So do you think that the hardware store ferrules will be ok if if I chuck the stamped steel crimper and get a decent one?
Currently no brakes. 4 flat connector runs down one side crossing over in the back. Largely held together by wire nuts. Short term I want to split it at the hitch run it down both sides and only have splices at the ground and the lights.
I will look into brakes when I bring it in to get the rails fixed and possibly a new hitch.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
here in Ontario ALL tandem axle trailers must have brakes, on at least 1 axle. I knwo different country different rules... but yeesh, an empty let alone loaded 16footer would be a bear to try to stop......