BX2380 50 hour maintenance - changing transmission fluid?
- Thread starter pgmrdan
- Start date
Not criticizing anyone but hydraulic oil with 50 hours on it is pretty much new. Still has 350 hours of life. The screen did its job removing particulates.
I've new drain oil containers. Plan to save, filter and reuse. Stuff is $27/gallon. The B2601 takes 4 gallons.
I think it's a personal preference thing. The mechanic at my local Kubota dealer said a complete hydraulic fluid change at fifty hours is unnecessary - just do the filters. From my perspective, if there are pieces floating in the hydraulic fluid the filters should catch them as the fluid is constantly running through the filters. If not caught the pieces probably won't drain out at a fluid change either.
I recently changed my transmission / hydrolic filters and fluid. It had been 183 hours I think since I had changed it the first time. One filter has a big magnet on it and it had alot of shavings from drilling on it from the factory. I know I own a different model and your screen will catch it I assume as one of the posters said and the fluid is still new. My tractor currently has 430 hrs.
Hard to believe there is that much junk left in the casings when assembled.
Hard to believe there is that much junk left in the casings when assembled.
Attachments
OK I know I will be called naughty name by some and not overtly bright by others. In MHO unless the oil has been contaminated but something, it never wears out, really oil never wears out, the additives do yes. When I have done the hydro I pull the plug, and drain the oil through several filters in to a CLEAN container. And reuse it, adding new to bring it level up to what I lost.
Is this the best or even a good way to do it probbly not, just one mans opinion.
Now on a big tractor or large piece of equipment that works around dusty or dirty conditions everything gets replaced due to contamination
Is this the best or even a good way to do it probbly not, just one mans opinion.
Now on a big tractor or large piece of equipment that works around dusty or dirty conditions everything gets replaced due to contamination
Of were speaking strictly straight weight hydro oil, then I can agree. Multi grade oils that run hydrostatic trans missions, powershift, and or have wet clutches and brakes in them have a significantly higher load on them then a standard hydaulic fluid. Many of them have the ability to absorb water into the oil to keep it from attacking the transmission. The copolymers that help make oils multi grade brake down over time, the oil will be degraded by the sheering effects of clutches and brakes being used and the amount of heat put into the oil has a direct connection to longevity as well. Not including normal wear and tear of the metallic parts, or dust/dirt intrusion. A hard worked piece of modern equipment is much harder on the fluid then the tractors of old.
Now I'm not saying what your doing is wrong. It works for you and I hate to throw out fluid that looks perfectly fine, but there is some science behind the manufacturer reccomened change intervals.
Is $120 going to kill you over a $20k machine? I sure hope not.
This is new SUDT2
This is 50 hour old fluid that came out of a new B2601
This is 50 hour old fluid that came out of a new LX3310
Last edited:
I plan to change mine at 50 hours. I spent many years working in factories. lets say a shaft is ground to get the correct finish the part then goes to a washer. if the washer does not get all the grit from the grinders or the washing operation is missed. The magnets will not catch it and it will either drop to the bottom of the pan or grind away. Chips are also sticky and can catch and not get washed off. I agree with Ralphva. change and filter and use it later maybe after warranty or in an older tractor. I even change my cars transmission fluid as soon as I buy a used car or at 15000 mile back when I bought new cars. Its about $100
edit if it looks like the picture from B737 above recycle it and know your money was well spent
edit if it looks like the picture from B737 above recycle it and know your money was well spent
That stuff looks like trash imo. The sudt2 I just got was pretty much clear. The fluid I drained was lite amber in color.
I just changed mine at 50 hours pretty murky looking. for the money I think it is worth it.
You’re a good man, skeets, and I‘m not jumping on you …. but you are mistaken in the belief that oil never wears out. Oil lubricates because its’ molecules, which are long-chains like spaghetti, are sitting between moving parts preventing their direct contact. But gears, rings, and other mechanical action Cuts and Shears those molecules into shorter and shorter chains until they are no longer as effective at separating moving parts because they become too short/small. (This is why used oil (that is not contaminated by sludge to thicken it) … has lost its’ viscosity and appears “thin”.
Oil should be changed not only to replenish additives but also to replace loss of viscosity due to mechanical break-down.
(Used oil can be re-cycled and re-refined to re-form those long chains…so if you’re one of those who prefer…there’s nothing wrong with buying re-cycled oil as long as it’s from a reputable refiner.)
I change all the fluids in any of my stuff that has an engine. In my experience, the first bit of use of an engine is the final machining of the precision parts. Engine wear is a direct result of stuff in the oil. I am not sure it is necessary or not but That is what I was taught on anything I put on a track…in my mind that should be overkill for my tractor…I am pretty sure it doesn’t reduce the engine life. It’s not free but over the life of the engine I really don’t think its that much to do at the first service.
I’m currently just under 30 hours and will be going with a complete fluid change at 50 hours. As pointed out above there are often remnants from the machining processes left behind for the break in oil. I want them gone. My opinion is that this is the most important oil change for the longevity of the hydro system and for the engine which I will change at the same time.
Its definitely a piece of mind thing, my fluid at 50 hours looked just like the new sudt2 I used to top off after the filter change. But if it looked as bad as those prior pictures, it's a dump and refill. On my RTV, at 50 and 200 hours the fluid looked fine. Coming up on 400, and will dump the old, tranny and hyd fluid, for new sudt2.