BX2350 - Removing the 12v accessory port

[Kodiak_of_MN]

Hi - My 12v outlet stopped working. Confirmed with a meter that there is no voltage between the "button" on the bottom of the plug and the wall of the plug. Verified the fuse is good. All checks were done with the key ON.

Next step is to pull the outlet itself out to check the connections on the back but can't figure out what's retaining it. Can barely see behind the fender let alone get a hand back there. Tried gently prying around the front flange but that didn't seem like the intended way to unlatch.

Anybody ever been through this on a BX or similar?

Thank you for any suggestions!

 

[BX25D Rookie]

It is assembled just like a cigarette lighter socket in most automobiles.
A sheet metal tubular "nut" screws over the actual 12 volt socket from behind, and between those two items is the fender material.
The bad news, for decent access to the 12 volt socket and the plug/wiring, you will need to do some serious disassembly. ROPS, seat, then remove the fender.

Look here for BX disassembly photos: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...of-recreational-hunting-property.39559/page-6

Post # 102 and up.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

Do you have a workshop manual for your BX2350?
There are many here for free: https://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Tractor Owners Manuals/

But I don't see a workshop manual for the BX2350.
I suspect for most things, a workshop manual for a BX2360 would be better than nothing.
I didn't find the fender removal process bad at all.

 

[Bee-Positive]

The outlet cover (black part #4) snaps into the sheet metal.
The outlet body (silver part #3) fits into the cover.
Not sure how the body is attached to the cover but may be able to be pulled out?

 

[Orangeglow]

Kodiak, before you dis-assemble anything, verify with a test light or a meter that you are getting 12 volts to one side of the fuse holder, to help you figure out which side of the wiring is faulty. If you have 12 volts to one side of the fuse holder, then test the lead going from the other side of the fuse holder to the center pin of your 12 volt plug. Is there any corrosion on the center pin ? Also verify that the barrel portion of your 12 volt plug is grounded.

 

[Kodiak_of_MN]

First off, thanks to everyone that contributed their advice. Here's what I found and how I proceeded.

I did reverify the plug inner wall was properly grounded and that the incoming power wire at the back of the socket was hot with the key ON.

Turns out the factory socket is not threaded behind the fender panel. The outer plastic sleeve has two retainment tabs that butt up against the back side of the fender. There was no way I was going to do a massive disassembly of the back half of the machine just to replace this (I'd just install another one somewhere else if it got to that point). Note that I've had this machine for 20 years so it's no longer showroom condition.

I ended up pushing the socket out the front by going in from the top and prying forward on it until the retainment tabs yielded. My only concern was whether the wires would be long enough to feed out the hole to easily connect to a new socket. Turns out there is plenty of wire to work with. The "top view" picture is deceiving for space behind the fender, it's literally barely wide enough to get one finger in there.

I just ordered a threaded socket to replace the old one. There is no way to get a tool on the retainment nut so it'll have to be just finger tight. I'll update this thread once I finish the install.

 

[Bee-Positive]

Use dielectric grease on the connections.
Be generous with red lock tight on the threads and snug it up (just be it works before hand).
Probably get another 20 years out of it.