B7500 Drag Link removal

[drewzee87t]

I am really having issues today...haha.

My drag link is worn out and tons of play in steering. I ordered a new drag link. I am trying to remove the old one and running into pretty serious conundrum.

The link is so worn out that the two connection points (steering knuckle and I guess pitman arm at steering) are free floating. I can't remove the nuts because the whole thing is loose and just spins. I can't get a pair of vice grips in there to try to hold it. Of course the new part did not include new castle nuts or cotter pins, either, which kind of sucks. I took it for granted that the part would come with the nuts like an automotive ball joint would typically come.

So - how on earth am I going to get this off? Disassemble the steering knuckle and pull the steering or pitman arm thing and then grind off the old ball joints? I am willing to bet that's not going to be very easy to get either.

Anyone ever run into this?

Aggggghhhh

Thanks for any help.

 

[D2Cat]

You'll have to wack it with a cutoff wheel, or get you one of these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-NUT...567683?hash=item3f69d5ef03:g:pTwAAOSwxg5XxeaE

You can get a set of them at Harbor Freight. Their not high quality, but will get you through many problems. They're not expensive either.

Most good hardware stores, these days, have a selection of metric nuts. Take the new joint in there and size it, but then it probably won't be a castle nut!

 

[Tooljunkie]

If they are loose in the taper, you will have some fun getting them out. A bar to pry them into hole, heat to warm up the nut and an impact to whip it off.

Tear off boot and weld ball to socket.
Or cut socket to reveal ball. Grind a couple flats to grab it and crank off nut.

There is a good possibility that tapered socket is damaged,a hardened washer or two will take up the looseness and line up cotter pin in castle. but if its out of round the same issue will arise.
There used to be sleeves available to correct this,as well as a reamer to restore the taper. A good auto parts guy may be able to line you up. Or perhaps a front end shop.

 

[drewzee87t]

Good suggestions!

I don't have a nut-buster (other than my wife), but I might be able to get an impact chisel to crack them. A neighbor also probably does have a nut-buster, so I can ask him. I can get a angle grinder to the steering knuckle but I don't think I can get it to the pitman arm. And then Frank is also probably correct that the tapers are gonna be shot. I will let you all know what happens whenever I get it off. I think it's gonna be loose even with the new link so there's probably more hell in store for me.

Weeeeee

 

[drewzee87t]

Managed to get at it with an angle grinder. Thanks a bunch. It does appear I have worn knuckle and pitman arm, they are gonna cost about $120 to replace, I think I will try to see how much slop is in it with a washer or two before spending on that.

The drag link does not have any "flats" to hold the ball joint stationary when tightening. I am not sure how anyone could ever remove one without torching or grinding it off. I am gonna liberally coat this sucker with anti-seize before installing it.

 

[drewzee87t]

Thanks a lot for the help, guys. It's back together. I used washers to get a little more thread out of it and there is a tiny bit of play at the pitman arm, but it's a huge improvement. I have about 1" of free play on the steering wheel now, versus probably 8" before.

 

[D2Cat]

Hey, when you're in misery you need all the help you can get! I'm just across the line! Glad it's working for you.

 

[drewzee87t]

now I just need to get it running

 

[D2Cat]

What does it do/not do? Symptoms. What have you done to it?

 

[drewzee87t]

D2Cat, I am back to the fuel problem...

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26466

 

[D2Cat]

I know you're probably frustrated, but you know it's a fuel delivery problem.

On your other post, do as North Idaho Wolfman suggested in the last post.

I would start at the tank. Open a line to drain the tank by gravity until it's empty. See how that flows. If restricted, you will know it's in the tank. If it's not the tank put a half a tank of fuel in. (New, not something you've had in a container for a while.) Keep doing this process unit you get to the IP.

You will iron out the problem. It may very well be bad fuel!