B7100D Cab

[Mike J Kb5100]

Hi all,
I am looking to make a cab for my B7100D with a Front End Loader, I know it's been done before but I'm not really sure where to start... I have a general design in mind from when I made another cab for a lawn tractor a while back. I know I will want to make it out of steel or even aluminum, whatever I can get my hands on... I can weld steel but I don't have a good way to weld aluminum. I was also thinking of making it in 2 halves. The front half welded together with the cross pieces bolted on to the back, the back half would be the same, the door I'd make removable, I'd most likely be using plexiglass for windows, and I'd make the rear one open and maybe a side one slide. Any tips for this? the last time I made one it was out of 2x2 and luck on a ford garden tractor. I just need some guidance as to where to mount it, Thx for the Help!

 

[bird dogger]

Hi all,
I am looking to make a cab for my B7100D with a Front End Loader, I know it's been done before but I'm not really sure where to start... I have a general design in mind from when I made another cab for a lawn tractor a while back. I know I will want to make it out of steel or even aluminum, whatever I can get my hands on... I can weld steel but I don't have a good way to weld aluminum. I was also thinking of making it in 2 halves. The front half welded together with the cross pieces bolted on to the back, the back half would be the same, the door I'd make removable, I'd most likely be using plexiglass for windows, and I'd make the rear one open and maybe a side one slide. Any tips for this? the last time I made one it was out of 2x2 and luck on a ford garden tractor. I just need some guidance as to where to mount it, Thx for the Help!

Maybe my cab build can give you some ideas for yours. I did this a few years ago now and it's worked out great! Mine was built for my Kubota B2650. Take a look here: Kubota B2650 Cab Build

 

[torch]

I built a cab for my B7100. My thread is here: B7100 CAB Build.

I framed it in steel -- thinwall 1" square tube. The B7100 design does not particularly lend itself to a sealed heated cab but what I made does a great job of keeping me comfortable when blowing snow. One particularly vexatious design issue is ensuring the hood can still open. I ended up making a hinged plexiglass panel below the main windshield. It flips up to allow the hood to open. Other alternatives would include a large rubber flap, or angling things to fit around the dash behind the hood.

Rather than trying to come up with a precise design on paper, I found it expedient to frame things up on the tractor, cutting and measuring as I went to ensure clearance at key points like top link, steering, clutch and brake pedals. There are 6 mounting points -- the PTO cover, the tapped frame holes forward of the rear wheels and the FEL support.

The one thing that I didn't get quite right were the door heights. The doors are removable, suicide and were intended to fold back 180° over and around the rear wheels. Unfortunately I missed and they don't. I should have had the cut-out 1" higher to miss the tires. Oh well, they are removable for summer and in winter I don't want them open anyway.

I also had to raise the cab roof at the rear when I later acquired a backhoe. I remove the rear window completely when I attach the backhoe. It's just attached with 1/4" screws so no big deal, but I probably would have designed a quick-release system if I had the backhoe originally. I may modify and retrofit something in the future, but for now I just added a 2-wire trailer connector for the wiper wiring. The wipers are not particularly useful in the rain, but essential when blowing snow.

Other cab-mounted amenities include LED worklights, a 2-speed fan that can rotate to blow on either the windshield or the driver, and an interior light that aids in refueling. An essential modification was to replace the manual crank on the snowblower with remote controls. I went with electric actuators and a joystick next to the 3ph control lever.

I included a lot of photos in the build thread, but feel free to ask for further photos or clarifications if it would be of help.

 

[Ping]

Mike,
Before I built a cab for my BX, I reviewed the cab builds in the 'sticky' section and internet for 'DIY tractor cab'. Found a lot of good and bad ideas and a lot of good advice from members here on the forum. Here's a link to my build https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx-snow-cab.38554/
Feel free to ask questions. Hope this helps
Regards,

 

[chim]

Made one for my L3200 some time back. It was built in pieces so it could be off in Summer. Only did that the first year, then just removed the doors after that. I used automotive safety glass to avoid scratched plastic.

DIY Cab for the L3200

I thought I posted my cab build here, but couldn’t find it. Must have been on another board only. This was a project to keep warm and dry if/when we get snow. We built here in 1989 and used open tractors ever since. Finally had enough so last year the cab went from the wish list to the “To...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[Mike J Kb5100]

Thanks for all the help! I’m trying to price everything out right now I’m thinking that 1” square tubing will be good for me I don’t think that I’ll need anything bigger, once it’s welded and there’s the roof and plexi on it I would think it would be strong enough?

 

[bird dogger]

Thanks for all the help! I’m trying to price everything out right now I’m thinking that 1” square tubing will be good for me I don’t think that I’ll need anything bigger, once it’s welded and there’s the roof and plexi on it I would think it would be strong enough?

Mike,
1" square tubing will be plenty strong for your framework. And if you want to save both money and weight, you should look closely at using "double polished" clear vinyl for your windows. Especially since you were planning to make things easier to put on/take off for seasonal changes. The clarity is excellent, and it's some tough stuff.
But it all depends on what your main goals are for your cab. Just deciding what to do and getting started is by far the hardest part. Make sure you take pics and post your progress!!
David

 

[torch]

I’m thinking that 1” square tubing will be good for me I don’t think that I’ll need anything bigger, once it’s welded and there’s the roof and plexi on it I would think it would be strong enough?

It's been 5 years since I built mine. No problems with the 1" thinwall square tube. Have fun!

 

[Mike J Kb5100]

Okay so after much delay I started the fab project, I will upload some pictures maybe someone can find them useful, In an effort to make the cab removable in summer months, I took some old gas pipe I had about 2 1/2 inch diameter and welded the bottom closed, then welded them onto the tractor in 4 corners, the front 2 are attached to the loader so if the loader comes off then the cab does too but I won’t be taking it off so it will be alright. Then from there I did the back made like a ROP bar style then fed off them, essentially making a box first, then filled in the sides to the contour of the fenders, since my loader controls stick out wider I had to accommodate for that put it all turned out nice. The door side I am still working on but it is nearing completion