B2400 Questions

[Crusty]

Hello folks, new member here and I just inherited an old B2400 from my dad. I've ordered some manuals but they're not here yet and I have a couple of operating questions that maybe someone here can answer.

The tractor is an old B2400, 2WD with HST, and has a belly mower, bush hog, spring rake and a trailer.

• First of all, there's a heel pedal on the left side that looks like a mirror image of the reverse engage pedal on the right side. What does that do?
  
• Second, the 3PH hydraulics are mostly non-functional though occasionally they will go all the way to the top or all the way to the bottom depending on the control lever position. Any suggestions of things to check/replace?
  
• Third, this tractor exhibits the occasional low battery won't crank problem that I've read a little about. What's the best way to correct it?
  
• Fourth, how are the brake pedals supposed to unlock once you've set them?

I'd also appreciate any tips and guidance for this model that any of you might offer since I intend to keep this little tractor 'til I'm gone too. Thanks in advance.

 

[birddogger]

• First of all, there's a heel pedal on the left side that looks like a mirror image of the reverse engage pedal on the right side. What does that do?
  
• Second, the 3PH hydraulics are mostly non-functional though occasionally they will go all the way to the top or all the way to the bottom depending on the control lever position. Any suggestions of things to check/replace?
  
• Third, this tractor exhibits the occasional low battery won't crank problem that I've read a little about. What's the best way to correct it?
  
• Fourth, how are the brake pedals supposed to unlock once you've set them?

I'm pretty sure I can help you with 1 + 4:
1)pedal on left-differential lock. For when you get 1 tire in mud or what and it starts spinning and no-go. Press the pedal and drive goes to both rear tires.

4)They should unlock by pressing them again. If the lock lever is stiff, and not releasing, give it a shot of silicone spray oil.

Now the "maybe's":
3) does the "won't crank" happen when it is warmed up? Pull the compression release and when it is spinning good let it in and fire it up. I always do this in neutral since you won't have a hand on the steering, one's turning the key, one's pulling the C-R.
2)does this have the 3ph speed control under the seat? adjust that. or Change hydraulic fluid and filter.

 

[Bulldog]

I'm pretty sure I can help you with 1 + 4:
1)pedal on left-differential lock. For when you get 1 tire in mud or what and it starts spinning and no-go. Press the pedal and drive goes to both rear tires.

2)does this have the 3ph speed control under the seat? adjust that. or Change hydraulic fluid and filter.

Just to add something to 1. Never press this pedal while the tires are spinning. Always come to a stop then lock it in.

As far as 2. goes. If you haven't changed the oil it would be a good idea to start with this.

 

[Crusty]

Thanks guys, that helped.

The no crank problem is just a click when the key is turned (as if the battery is dead). I've found some posts online which suggest that a relay needs to be installed to replace the safety switches circuit for this problem. If I throw a battery charger on it for a while then it cranks right up and since I understand that the alternator on this tractor is weak I guess it could have been a low battery from the tractor running at idle for quite a while with the rear lights on.

I had already decided that I need to change the hydraulic fluid, clean the filter screen and possibly look at the hyd. pump sump hose to make sure that the pump can get fluid. The 3PH was sort of working at first but then it quit after several cycles and diddling with the flow control knob didn't seem to change anything. It sure was a struggle to get the bush hog connected for moving with the arms locked all the way up.

There's also a couple of red pull controls in the lower dash that I don't know what they do. Any guesses?

I'll spray the brake locks with silicone and also make sure that I always have some tools with me.

 

[Bulldog]

Normally a red pull control will be a manual fuel shut off.

 

[meanjean]

Clean all your connections.
Double check your ground.

Good call Bulldog re: not engaging the d lock while moving.
I did not know that.

 

[Blkvoodoo]

Thanks guys, that helped.

The no crank problem is just a click when the key is turned (as if the battery is dead). I've found some posts online which suggest that a relay needs to be installed to replace the safety switches circuit for this problem. If I throw a battery charger on it for a while then it cranks right up and since I understand that the alternator on this tractor is weak I guess it could have been a low battery from the tractor running at idle for quite a while with the rear lights on. adding relay in the starter solenoid trigger circuit will help greatly with the "click" on start

I had already decided that I need to change the hydraulic fluid, clean the filter screen and possibly look at the hyd. pump sump hose to make sure that the pump can get fluid. The 3PH was sort of working at first but then it quit after several cycles and diddling with the flow control knob didn't seem to change anything. It sure was a struggle to get the bush hog connected for moving with the arms locked all the way up.
if you're going to pull the screen, may as well change it out, it's cheap enough that trying to clean it isn't worth the hassle, don't forget the "o"ring seals, there are 2
There's also a couple of red pull controls in the lower dash that I don't know what they do. Any guesses?
the 2 knobs are left knob is parking brake lock, push pedals down, hold lever down, release lever, parking brake is set, the other nob is HST pedal lock aka "cruise control" push the go pedal for speed you want, push lever down, it'll hold go pedal in that position, push pedal again to release either

I'll spray the brake locks with silicone and also make sure that I always have some tools with me.
if pedals are sticking lube all linkage points and work them, if setting using the levers, probably not a bad idea to lube all linkage pivots points while you're in there

B2400 does not have a compression release, I've noticed even when my B2400 has a new fresh battery it still sounds like it's struggling to turn over, maybe my starter is going, if so, I'll wait till it's dead, $285 for a new one

My dynamo seized a few months ago, I had an alternator from a Toyota forklift that I mounted in place, with minor modifications to top bracket.
The Toyota alt has a three wire plug on back as opposed to 2 wire, not an issue otherwise, mounting ears are 180° opposite, and very similar to the Kubota style.
haven't wired it in yet, haven't had time. runs fine running total loss, only need the battery for starting and shutting off, I don't use the lights.Once I get a chance to do the wiring I will take pix and do a write up.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

blkvoodoo,
You'll need to do a little homework on the dynamo/alternator interchange. Some of the early "dynamo" systems use external rectifier AND voltage regulators. You'll need to know if the Toyota unit uses an external regulator, but most alternators will have internal rectifier/diode boards. My old "M" series had a dynamo system originally but was converted over to a Delco unit because a cab with air and heat was added along with a passel of safety lights that the original system didn't have the amp capacity to keep up with. Bottom line is... I have a bunch of un-used wiring connections under the hood now, but the delco alternator will charge the battery while still lighting a small city. If you're careful with the re-wire your charge indicator should still work properly.
Normally on an internally regulated alternator the "heavy" wire or spade terminal will go directly to the battery main feed to the wiring system (almost always a large red wire). One of the other two will go to the alternator main output (mine goes directly via a 3 inch pigtail, just loops back to the main output terminal), the third will go to your hook-up for the charge indicator light (which probably originally hooked up to your voltage regulator). A wiring diagram is helpful.

 

[Blkvoodoo]

blkvoodoo,
You'll need to do a little homework on the dynamo/alternator interchange......

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1530

read the above link,homework has been done, I haven't had time to actually finish the swap, I just mounted it so I had a fan and water pump.

that thread was last summer, I've been waiting for the opportunity to actually do the swap, actually had to install the Toyota alt beginning of August because the dynamo bearings seized, now I need to finish the wiring part of it. Running total loss since August, and it still starts.

well aware of the regulator for the dynamo, the alt I have is internally regulated.

I'm a Toyota Forklift Tech

thanks for the heads up though !