AquaHot Heater Install

keystonemedical

New member

Equipment
B7610
Nov 9, 2015
10
0
0
Pa.
Hello, brand new here and I have a question already ! I have a B7610 Hydro that I recently installed a Curtis soft side cab on a few days ago. I purchased a AquaHot cab heater. After doing some research on the web Im finding two primary locations to tap antifreeze. A T-fitting off the lower radiator hose and the water pump by-pass loop. The drain hose for the radiator runs from the block into the bottom of the radiator with a white plastic drain valve in the middle. Does anyone know if I could tie the AquaHot diverter block into that drain hose ? I would assume there has to be a flow of antifreeze going through it if it has a drain valve mounted on it and it comes from the block to the radiator. Tapping into the the lower hose is going to be quite a challenge due to the lack of space. I also paid a good penny for this fancy diverter block that came with the kit, Id like to be able to use it. Any info would be appreciated !!! Thanks..
 

CountryBumkin

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BX2370 w/LA243, Bucket, Grapple, QA Pallet Forks, 60" MMM, rear blade & rake
Sep 27, 2015
568
1
0
Central FL
What size water openings (fittings) are on the AquaHot?
If they are 1/2", for example, you would want to connect to engine with 1/2 connections, and the radiator drain is not going to be anywhere near 1/2". If you connect to too small a fitting you won't get enough flow threw the heater.

The coolant system flow is from the Cylinder head to the Radiator (via upper hose) when the cylinder head coolant is hot (when the thermostat is open), so if the coolant in the head is cool and the thermostat is closed and the coolant will go through the "by-pass" hose back into the block. So you don't want to connect the top radiator hose (as it will have no flow when the engine is cool). The By-pass hose will always have flow so that is a good place to tap. The lower radiator hose would be a good place for the AquaHot to return to - or perhaps a freeze plug at the rear of the block (if there is one easy to access) and there you can install a plug with threaded opening for a heater hose fitting. Something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/joe-36200?seid=srese1&gclid=CM6mwdHsg8kCFYY9gQodR-0Caw
 
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keystonemedical

New member

Equipment
B7610
Nov 9, 2015
10
0
0
Pa.
Thanks for the reply on this. The hoses on the aqua hot are 5/8. The hose off the top of the bypass looks alot smaller in size. I even had second thoughts about tapping into it due to the size. I knew I would have to go up to 5/8 to attach to the heater. The hose that runs out of the block is bigger. Ill attach a pic from the drain hose from the block and a picture of the diverter. I intended to T off the lower hose but, man, its a short tiny hose with a funky bend in it. The diverter is designed to be placed on the lower hose and its nearly the same length as the hose !

hose 1.jpg

hose2.jpg

diverter.jpg
 

Dave_eng

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
4,609
611
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
I looked on the Aquahot web site to learn the possible heat output from the unit.
The smaller one will provide 4,000 btu, providing the coolant is 170F.
My experience on a different but similar system is that it sucked so much heat out of the coolant system that the water temp never got anywhere near 170F.
To put the heat output into another familiar term, it would provide a little more heat than a 1,000 watt baseboard heater.
Diesel engines are very different than automobile or gasoline engines when it comes to winter operation. A diesel engine is like a big air pump and cold air flows freely through the engine providing a lot of cooling leaving less for the antifreeze based coolant system to handle. The gasoline engine has a throttle plate which restricts air flow through the engine and further, there is usually a mechanism to recover exhaust heat to pre heat the air going into the engine.
To avoid the inside of the cab windows from fogging up you need a fair amount of fresh air to carry away the moisture from your breath. If you have a car with AC, when it is cold outside try putting the car's air circulation system into the recirc or max AC mode. After a while the windows will start to fog over.
I am not trying to discourage you from proceeding with this project but rather just wanted you to have realistic expectations.
I know when you are freezing you axx off a little heat is much appreciated. Just having a cab will be a big improvement.
Dave M7040
 

keystonemedical

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Equipment
B7610
Nov 9, 2015
10
0
0
Pa.
Thanks for the opinion Dave. Its just between the heater and the diverter block, not to mention the wiring, hoses and whatever else, Im going to have some money tied up in this and Im sure ill eat it if I try to Ebay it all.

I have noticed that the tractor has a hard time building heat. I just assumed that even if i could get some warmth out of the system, it would be better than none.

I started second guessing the project when I popped the hood and really started looking at the routing of those tiny hoses ect. Now as weeks have gone by Ive been thinking alot about the heat output that you mentioned and maybe Im better off using one of the small electric heaters just to see if it takes the edge off and keeps the windshield from fogging.
 

MadMax31

Member

Equipment
BX23S, 60" MMM
Nov 5, 2014
766
7
18
New York
My B7610 rarely comes off Cold on temp gauge when running. Do you have any pics of Curtis Cab? Was thinking of building my own, but time is running out
 
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tcrote5516

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Equipment
BX1860, FEL, 50" Front Blower, Heated Cab, 6' blade, 3pt carry all, 3pt hitch
Sep 2, 2014
482
2
0
Southern New Hampshire
Thanks for the opinion Dave. Its just between the heater and the diverter block, not to mention the wiring, hoses and whatever else, Im going to have some money tied up in this and Im sure ill eat it if I try to Ebay it all.

I have noticed that the tractor has a hard time building heat. I just assumed that even if i could get some warmth out of the system, it would be better than none.

I started second guessing the project when I popped the hood and really started looking at the routing of those tiny hoses ect. Now as weeks have gone by Ive been thinking alot about the heat output that you mentioned and maybe Im better off using one of the small electric heaters just to see if it takes the edge off and keeps the windshield from fogging.
Don't get scared off. I have an even smaller tractor pulling coolant off the bypass hose and it heats my cab up to the mid 60's when the outside temp is in the single digits. No fogging either. The process of heating the air does dry it out to a degree and since these cab's are not sealed up like a drum enough air moves in/out to keep the windows clear.

I was worried about both heat output and fogging when I built mine but I'm happy to say neither is REMOTELY an issue on my little 18hp BX.
 

keystonemedical

New member

Equipment
B7610
Nov 9, 2015
10
0
0
Pa.
My B7610 rarely comes off Cold on temp gauge when running. Do you have any pics of Curtis Cab? Was thinking of building my own, but time is running out
Ill take a pic or two tomorrow morning of the Curtis and post it here. I paid 3100.00 for the cab and had to do alot of cutting to the cowl. I was told by Curtis that there cab for the B7610 was designed for the standard Kubota loader not the Woods loader that I have. I did a bunch of research on the cab before I purchased it and I didnt see anywhere where it said that it would only fit a Kubota loader, not too mention I was shorted on some of the hardware.
 

keystonemedical

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Equipment
B7610
Nov 9, 2015
10
0
0
Pa.
Don't get scared off. I have an even smaller tractor pulling coolant off the bypass hose and it heats my cab up to the mid 60's when the outside temp is in the single digits. No fogging either. The process of heating the air does dry it out to a degree and since these cab's are not sealed up like a drum enough air moves in/out to keep the windows clear.

I was worried about both heat output and fogging when I built mine but I'm happy to say neither is REMOTELY an issue on my little 18hp BX.
Any chance you can give me a quick rundown on the set up you have coming off the by pass on your tractor ?
 

Diydave

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L2202 tractor, L185f tractor
Oct 31, 2013
1,636
4
0
Gambrills, MD USA
If the heater don't get hot enough, just put a piece of cardboard over the radiator, like the old truckers did. New trucks have plastic or canvas covers, that snap over the grille, and you can open them up to various configurations, to get the temp where you want to. Can do the same thing, by decreasing the area or size of the piece of cardboard, and cardboard is free...:D:D
 

Grouse Feathers

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BX2370, FEL, Snowblower-BX5455, Homebuilt Forks, LP RB1560, LP GS1548
Feb 16, 2015
1,022
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Lovells, Mi
I have a BX2370 and installed a heater in the cab I built. I just replaced the 1/2 inch bypass with the heater and bushed up and down to the 5/8 heater connections. By the time the tractor is warm enough to run(5 minutes), the heater is putting out heat. Last year at temperatures around 20 I was taking off my coat in comfort. Finished construction late last winter so I have no colder temperature experience. The cab is sealed up pretty good, but I made no effort to seal the many holes in the floor and fenders of the BX. However at 5 mph it doesn't take much heat to warm up a volume as small as a tractor cab. Blowing snow my tractor quickly comes up to the same operating temperature in winter as grading the driveway in summer.
 

Tooljunkie

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L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
4,150
24
38
57
Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
So what larry says seems reasonable, put heater hoses in place of bypass hose. Should work well. But no valves in water line.

Many trucks up here cover rad completely as well as a belly cover. Keeps wind off entire engine.

The L4610 i used to run in winter (no cab) had a rad screen that i replaced with cardboard for winter. Mind you i had to move snow on minus 30 days.couldnt bear to look at that cold operating temperature.

I will tell you it was just nasty. So any type of cover and any kind of heat is a step up from what i was subjected to.

I used to pull fan off my 80 dodge for the colder part of winter, never ran too hot.205 thermostat too. Heater core scrubbed enough heat i guess.
 
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chim

Well-known member

Equipment
L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
1,178
254
83
Near Lancaster, PA, USA
For my L3200 I built a cab and installed a heater in the Winter of 2012/2013. It made life a lot more fun in cold weather. I used the small bypass line and it works great. The heater is a 20,000BTU, has two fan speeds and it is capable of providing more heat than desired in the coldest weather.

The existing bypass hose was used as an adaptor. The bottom clamp was loosened and the top end of the hose was removed and then rotated almost 180 degrees so it pointed toward the bottom of the picture. The location of the double hose clamps is where the hose connects to one side of the heater in the third picture.

The other heater hose then connects to the port where that existing bypass was disconnected from. It's easier to see that in a side view in the second photo. It can also be seen from the top in the third photo but it disappears under the steel bracket.

I was advised that there must be a route for the water to flow at all times - either through the heater core or a core bypass line. I plumbed the heater with 1/4 turn valves on the inlet and outlet plus another 1/4 turn valve between two tees on the engine side of the two heater valves that works as a bypass.
 

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Stubbyie

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Jul 1, 2010
879
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0
Midcontinent
I'm not certain what is meant by 'water pump bypass loop'.

Look carefully at the water pump housing and determine if there is a threaded port with a plug in it. Parts schematic may assist. I've done propane conversions on Ford and Chevy pickups and always found a plug on the water pump housing to get hot flow for the fuel vaporizer. Memory is that they are all 3/8-inch pipe. On Kubota if exist may be British Standard Pipe (BSP). If go this way use a brass [hex] nipple or fitting, not steel, and plenty of sealant on the male threads only.

Please post back your continuing thoughts, observations, and experiences so we may all learn.
 

keystonemedical

New member

Equipment
B7610
Nov 9, 2015
10
0
0
Pa.
For my L3200 I built a cab and installed a heater in the Winter of 2012/2013. It made life a lot more fun in cold weather. I used the small bypass line and it works great. The heater is a 20,000BTU, has two fan speeds and it is capable of providing more heat than desired in the coldest weather.

The existing bypass hose was used as an adaptor. The bottom clamp was loosened and the top end of the hose was removed and then rotated almost 180 degrees so it pointed toward the bottom of the picture. The location of the double hose clamps is where the hose connects to one side of the heater in the third picture.

The other heater hose then connects to the port where that existing bypass was disconnected from. It's easier to see that in a side view in the second photo. It can also be seen from the top in the third photo but it disappears under the steel bracket.

I was advised that there must be a route for the water to flow at all times - either through the heater core or a core bypass line. I plumbed the heater with 1/4 turn valves on the inlet and outlet plus another 1/4 turn valve between two tees on the engine side of the two heater valves that works as a bypass.
Did you plumb in any valves to shut the heater off in the summer. if so, where did you locate the valves ? It would seem to me that if you would want to stop hot water flowing to the core, then you would need to go back to utilizing the by pass ? Thanks for the pics, they confirmed what I was thinking.
 

keystonemedical

New member

Equipment
B7610
Nov 9, 2015
10
0
0
Pa.
I have a BX2370 and installed a heater in the cab I built. I just replaced the 1/2 inch bypass with the heater and bushed up and down to the 5/8 heater connections. By the time the tractor is warm enough to run(5 minutes), the heater is putting out heat. Last year at temperatures around 20 I was taking off my coat in comfort. Finished construction late last winter so I have no colder temperature experience. The cab is sealed up pretty good, but I made no effort to seal the many holes in the floor and fenders of the BX. However at 5 mph it doesn't take much heat to warm up a volume as small as a tractor cab. Blowing snow my tractor quickly comes up to the same operating temperature in winter as grading the driveway in summer.
Larry, same question for you as I asked Chim, did you plumb in any valves to shut the heat off in the summer, if so, where did you locate them in the system ? It seems to me that I would need to re connect the by pass if i were to shut off the water to the core in the summer ?
 

CountryBumkin

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Equipment
BX2370 w/LA243, Bucket, Grapple, QA Pallet Forks, 60" MMM, rear blade & rake
Sep 27, 2015
568
1
0
Central FL
Install the diverter valve so the coolant goes from water pump (by-pass hose) into the diverter valve "input side", and connect the diverter valve "output side" to the block connection where water pump by-pass hose normally connects.

Then the other two (side) connections on the diverter valve go to the heater.
 

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Last edited:

chim

Well-known member

Equipment
L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
1,178
254
83
Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Did you plumb in any valves to shut the heater off in the summer. if so, where did you locate the valves ? It would seem to me that if you would want to stop hot water flowing to the core, then you would need to go back to utilizing the by pass ? Thanks for the pics, they confirmed what I was thinking.
Mike has that nifty red valve that does the work of the three valves I installed. Any info on where I could get one for a current project?

The piping (hosing?:)) is done like an H below the heater. The supply and return hoses each have a tee in them and the tees are connected together by short pieces of hose with a valve in the middle. Above the tees the supply and return each have their own valve. Total of three valves. For heating, the two valves (Supply & Return) are open and the valve between the tees (Bypass) is closed. For warm weather the bypass valve is opened and the supply and return valves are closed.

We're building a cab for the Montana we have at work and I just ordered another heater like mine. The heater is an AH454 and I ordered it from Raceway Parts for $175 shipped. Picked up 4 LED floods this afternoon at a nearby trailer shop.

Last year was the first time we had our lawn care guy take over the snow removal at work. The guys were tired of coming in early enough to clear the snow for the people who start at 06:00.

He does the bulk of the clearing, but we have lots of nooks and crannies that he doesn't have the equipment to handle. The guys will really appreciate the cab.
 

keystonemedical

New member

Equipment
B7610
Nov 9, 2015
10
0
0
Pa.
Install the diverter valve so the coolant goes from water pump (by-pass hose) into the diverter valve "input side", and connect the diverter valve "output side" to the block connection where water pump by-pass hose normally connects.

Then the other two (side) connections on the diverter valve go to the heater.
Hey Mike, Thanks for all the help on this. The pics really cleared it up for me, I appreciate it.
 

keystonemedical

New member

Equipment
B7610
Nov 9, 2015
10
0
0
Pa.
Mike has that nifty red valve that does the work of the three valves I installed. Any info on where I could get one for a current project?

The piping (hosing?:)) is done like an H below the heater. The supply and return hoses each have a tee in them and the tees are connected together by short pieces of hose with a valve in the middle. Above the tees the supply and return each have their own valve. Total of three valves. For heating, the two valves (Supply & Return) are open and the valve between the tees (Bypass) is closed. For warm weather the bypass valve is opened and the supply and return valves are closed.

We're building a cab for the Montana we have at work and I just ordered another heater like mine. The heater is an AH454 and I ordered it from Raceway Parts for $175 shipped. Picked up 4 LED floods this afternoon at a nearby trailer shop.

Last year was the first time we had our lawn care guy take over the snow removal at work. The guys were tired of coming in early enough to clear the snow for the people who start at 06:00.

He does the bulk of the clearing, but we have lots of nooks and crannies that he doesn't have the equipment to handle. The guys will really appreciate the cab.
I found that diverter on Ebay, it wasnt cheap. I think I paid like 80.00 bucks for it. I knew what it did, I just wasnt sure how to get it mounted to the tractor and how to utilize it. I think I seen complete kits from AquaHot with all the fittings and clamps for like 150.00 or so. I guess in the end after I buy the fittings and heater hose ect.. Im probably going to be near that cost wise.