Anyone using a rear remote "float" valve?

mcmxi

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MX6000HST, MX6000HSTC (on the way) LP, EA & RI attachments - GL7000 generator
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I have three spring center rear remotes on my MX, two are used for the top-n-tilt and the third to run a ram on a Land Pride rear blade. I added the same set up to the new MX but am thinking that I might be better off with changing one to a spring center with float. My thought here is that I could float the ram that controls the tilt of a land leveler or rear blade when grading my driveway once the camber has been established. The top ram would be fixed since I see no benefit in floating that cylinder.

I'm assuming that a rear remote float valve can be used as a standard spring center valve but has the added functionality of having a float position, like an FEL.
 

SDT

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multiple and various
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I have three spring center rear remotes on my MX, two are used for the top-n-tilt and the third to run a ram on a Land Pride rear blade. I added the same set up to the new MX but am thinking that I might be better off with changing one to a spring center with float. My thought here is that I could float the ram that controls the tilt of a land leveler or rear blade when grading my driveway once the camber has been established. The top ram would be fixed since I see no benefit in floating that cylinder.

I'm assuming that a rear remote float valve can be used as a standard spring center valve but has the added functionality of having a float position, like an FEL.
A float valve is very useful if pulling a BW mower.

SDT
 

mcmxi

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MX6000HST, MX6000HSTC (on the way) LP, EA & RI attachments - GL7000 generator
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A float valve is very useful if pulling a BW mower.

SDT
As much as I'd like a BW or FW mower I don't see one in my future. My immediate concern is the ability to float the tilt feature so that the implement follows an established camber. I'd like to be able to lock in the tilt in order to establish the proper camber for drainage and snow removal.
 

SDT

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multiple and various
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As much as I'd like a BW or FW mower I don't see one in my future. My immediate concern is the ability to float the tilt feature so that the implement follows an established camber. I'd like to be able to lock in the tilt in order to establish the proper camber for drainage and snow removal.
I've never had T & T so cannot offer much help with that but, yes, a float valve is similar to your spring return to center valves but with the added flexibility of the float feature.

I have 3 spring return to center valves on my L6060 but would get one float valve if doing it again even though I doubt that I will ever pull a BW with it. It adds functionality and does not cost much more.

I did add a float valve (third position) to my M9960 when I bought my BW.

SDT
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, WC68 chipper, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen
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Central Piedmont, NC
Mine has three rear remotes, two spring center and one spring center with float. I use the float on the top link at times when mowing with a rotary cutter because I bush hog some very rough areas and have to adjust it all the way up (PTO not running) to cross the two creeks or load it on my trailer. My rotary cutter has very little travel in the top link (it’s both old and was pretty low end even 40 years ago). Floating the top link prevents binding in very uneven terrain.

I also swap the lines to put the float on the tilt for touch up grading on our crowned gravel road. Floating the tilt makes pulling gravel from the ditches back toward to center of the road without changing the grade, skipping areas, or pulling up dirt much easier at least for me.

And yes, you are correct that the float detent works exactly like a spring return unless you push it past the detent into float mode. If your intended use for two of your rear remotes is top and tilt, I would encourage you to strongly consider at least one float detent. You can use a float detent like a spring center if you don’t want it to float. If you do want it to float, float detent is by far the best way to accomplish it.
 
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mcmxi

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MX6000HST, MX6000HSTC (on the way) LP, EA & RI attachments - GL7000 generator
Feb 9, 2021
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NW Montana
Mine has three rear remotes, two spring center and one spring center with float. I use the float on the top link at times when mowing with a rotary cutter because I bush hog some very rough areas and have to adjust it all the way up (PTO not running) to cross the two creeks or load it on my trailer. My rotary cutter has very little travel in the top link (it’s both old and was pretty low end even 40 years ago). Floating the top link prevents binding in very uneven terrain.

I also swap the lines to put the float on the tilt for touch up grading on our crowned gravel road. Floating the tilt makes pulling gravel from the ditches back toward to center of the road without changing the grade, skipping areas, or pulling up dirt much easier at least for me.

And yes, you are correct that the float detent works exactly like a spring return unless you push it past the detent into float mode. If your intended use for two of your rear remotes is top and tilt, I would encourage you to strongly consider at least one float detent. You can use a float detent like a spring center if you don’t want it to float. If you do want it to float, float detent is by far the best way to accomplish it.
That's very helpful information. My rotary cutter has a lot of top link freedom so not needed there, but I definitely want float for the tilt function for touching up the driveway once it's the way I want it. Thanks for confirming that the float valve works as a spring center unless moved over to the float detent position. Makes me think that other than the added cost, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have all three with the float option.

I called the the salesman this morning to change one of the rear remotes to the float type and he informed me that he already did that a while ago after we'd talked about what I was trying to do. He's on it for sure.
 

Matt Ellerbee

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Jun 27, 2019
708
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Canton, Georgia
That's very helpful information. My rotary cutter has a lot of top link freedom so not needed there, but I definitely want float for the tilt function for touching up the driveway once it's the way I want it. Thanks for confirming that the float valve works as a spring center unless moved over to the float detent position. Makes me think that other than the added cost, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have all three with the float option.

I called the the salesman this morning to change one of the rear remotes to the float type and he informed me that he already did that a while ago after we'd talked about what I was trying to do. He's on it for sure.
On the MX, only 2nd and 3rd can have float. The valve has a big ol nipple on the bottom that would hit transmission/axle if put in the 1st position.

My 3 are all spring center.
C0C6E14B-0998-49E8-A5DD-F850C88CB771.jpeg
 
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mcmxi

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MX6000HST, MX6000HSTC (on the way) LP, EA & RI attachments - GL7000 generator
Feb 9, 2021
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NW Montana
On the MX, only 2nd and 3rd can have float. The valve has a big ol nipple on the bottom that would hit transmission/axle if put in the 1st position.

My 3 are all spring center.
This is the view of the rear remote valves from the other side. All shown are spring center but I'm not following your point. I understand what you said but a photo showing the "big 'ol nipple" would be helpful. I've looked for an image of the float valve that will be installed but haven't been able to find anything yet.

It's academic but interesting. I'm going to stay with having one rear remote with float on the new MX although I have half a mind to call the salesman and annoy him even more by asking him to swap out another spring center for a float, particularly since they act as spring center if needed. I like options, what can I say. 😂

rear_remotes_mx.jpg
 
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Matt Ellerbee

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Canton, Georgia
This is the view of the rear remote valves from the other side. All shown are spring center but I'm not following your point. I understand what you said but a photo showing the "big 'ol nipple" would be helpful. I've looked for an image of the float valve that will be installed but haven't been able to find anything yet.

It's academic but interesting. I'm going to stay with having one rear remote with float on the new MX although I have half a mind to call the salesman and annoy him even more by asking him to swap out another spring center for a float, particularly since they act as spring center if needed. I like options, what can I say. 😂

View attachment 65743
The float valve I have seen, sticks out another few inches where the lower nut is on our 3.
Good ol google came through.
7D39457A-4376-4E8A-91FA-0351408164B0.jpeg
 
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mcmxi

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MX6000HST, MX6000HSTC (on the way) LP, EA & RI attachments - GL7000 generator
Feb 9, 2021
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NW Montana
The float valve I have seen, sticks out another few inches where the lower nut is on our 3.
Good ol google came through.
Thanks Matt, that's very helpful. I sent a text to the salesman asking him to add a second float valve only if it won't delay delivery and if it won't piss someone off that could delay delivery. 😂 I just don't see a downside to having two and I'd rather not have to revisit the rear remotes.
 

eipo

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L4060
Dec 1, 2015
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28
MI
Im running one float valve connected to my top link specifically to float either the land plane, box blade or rake with gauge wheels.
 

mcmxi

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MX6000HST, MX6000HSTC (on the way) LP, EA & RI attachments - GL7000 generator
Feb 9, 2021
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NW Montana
The dealer called me this morning and told me that on the MX and L60 tractors, you can only have a float valve in the #2 position. They had run into this situation previously where someone wanted to have a couple of float valves but couldn't. I asked why not #3 but they weren't sure as to why but just that it couldn't be done.
 

TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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Myersville, MD
The dealer called me this morning and told me that on the MX and L60 tractors, you can only have a float valve in the #2 position. They had run into this situation previously where someone wanted to have a couple of float valves but couldn't. I asked why not #3 but they weren't sure as to why but just that it couldn't be done.
Probably no clearance for the 4th position on the spool.

Dan
 

Henro

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B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini Ex.
May 24, 2019
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North of Pittsburgh PA
I have four remotes, three with pilot operated check valves in them and one with float. I only use three of them, and that is because I have two tilt cylinders. If I ever get around to installing a angle cylinder on my rear blade, I will use the fourth valve.

One thing I noticed with the float valve section, is that the cylinder connected will leak down over time, at least if it feels a pull on it. The cylinders connected to the sections with check valves hold position and do not move.

Not sure if factory setups even offer a check valve option. I like that option, but I put my setup together myself.

I love having float on a tilt cylinder when plowing snow on my driveway that has compound curves to it. I would not want to be without float on one cylinder. Do not think I would need/want float on two sections.

Guess I am saying that being locked into having only one float valve section with the factory setup is not really that big of a deal. It is actually what I would choose anyway.

I do think having check valves to hold the cylinders in position is super. Not sure if that is a factory option or not.
 

B737

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LX3310
Jun 9, 2019
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New Jersey
Building on what @Henro mentioned above, here is my experience...

On my B2601 the rear valve from kubota was very leaky. The side link would droop quickly, with an attachment I would get an inch or so over a short time. When you are trying to keep things flat it is really important to not have any movement in that side link. I was getting really frustrated. Overnight, the cylinder would droop full down... The top link, was fine.

I learned that the rear valves are hit-and-miss. Some more leaky than others internally.

The solution for me was to install a check valve on the tilt cylinder like Henro mentioned. This solved the drooping entirely, and I no longer had attachments that would drift off in the middle of a project, specifically the box blade.

Now the check valve is attached there are 11 points that need various o-rings, compression seals, crush washers lol I fought with several of those for a while as they wept but at least that's pretty easy to address.

Brian at fit-rite was incredibly helpful assisting me navigating up the learning curve.

I have the new machine with rear float, I am reluctant to remove the check valve to 'see' how this particular valve is internally. Once the check valve is on there, no float, but no unintended movement...

 
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NCL4701

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L4701, WC68 chipper, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen
Apr 27, 2020
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Central Piedmont, NC
I have dealer installed factory valves on mine. Of course one is a float detent.

Thankfully I have not experienced the leaky valve problems noted by some others but have only about 150 hours on them as I didn’t get them installed with the initial purchase. They will leak down a bit overnight if left under load. I expect that to some degree with any hydraulics so I have not viewed that as a problem or defect. I do recognize the experience of others may vary.

The shop manager at my dealer did warn me prior to install that the way the relief valve works, if the system goes into relief the cylinders do tend to drift as they sometimes get complaints about that. Whether that’s accurate or not, I can not independently state as fact. As a general operating procedure I do attempt to avoid putting the system into relief when possible.
 
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B737

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NCL, what I gathered from Brain was that the larger machines like yours have a much better track record with rear valves that don't leak.
 
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mcmxi

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MX6000HST, MX6000HSTC (on the way) LP, EA & RI attachments - GL7000 generator
Feb 9, 2021
880
784
93
NW Montana
On my B2601 the rear valve from kubota was very leaky. The side link would droop quickly, with an attachment I would get an inch or so over a short time. When you are trying to keep things flat it is really important to not have any movement in that side link. I was getting really frustrated. Overnight, the cylinder would droop full down... The top link, was fine.
I have the same issue with the side link. The top cylinder seems to stay where it is but the tilt cylinder leaks down all the time. I need to look into what you did to solve this more closely. Thanks.