A bit of an issue with aftermarket 3pt stabilize bars.

[Blue2Orange]

Replaced the factory toggle style "bar" with a set of sliding bars for easy quick adjustment. Decided I should finally do a test attachment and run of the 3pt snowblower now v. the first snowfall. The pto connecting shaft was cut by the dealer for use with the quick attach. The width of the stabilizer bars even with the shaft completely compressed prevented me from passing the shaft from the ground up to the pto at every possible angle. Requires attaching from the top. Even that was just possible at positioning the blower at one height position.

Was aware of the issue of the bar and plate just under the pto that can rub against the protective cover over the shaft "knuckle" if using these slide bar stabilizers. That I flipped over giving an additional inch.

Quick connecting shaft "hammock" to hold the shaft fully compressed and horizontal when attaching to tractor is my fix for now. Just ~1/2" too long. Cutting would be the proper fix. So... I'm assuming i cut just 1/2" of both the steel shaft and plastic cover?

 

[Russell King]

Do not install the PTO shaft if it is too long! You can damage the tractor, implement or PTO shaft if you move the implement up or down!

Search for “cutting PTO shaft to length“ on the internet and you will get lots of information. I would look at three or four different videos that are from the shaft or implement companies. You will get the information you need.

 

[Trash Panda]

Trimming the PTO shaft with a good & sharp metal cutting blade is the solution here.

Tons of tutorials on YouTube how to properly measure & accomplish this task, that should help ya out immensely.

 

[#40Fan]

If you think you only need a 1/2", you won't hurt anything by cutting 1".

 

[bobnic]

My understanding of your situation is as follows (correct me if wrong):

You are using a quick hitch on your 3 point and the dealer cut the PTO shaft for use with the quick hitch, so presumably it is the proper length to prevent it from not being able to collapse sufficiently through out the range of lifting by the 3 point. It doesn't hurt to verify this by measuring the distance between the locking balls at the ends of the PTO shaft when it is completely collapsed and comparing this to the minimum distance you can measure between the valleys on the tractor and implement PTO splines through out the 3 point lift range. You would want at least a half inch margin of extra clearance. There is also a minimum amount of overlap necessary for the PTO shaft sections so you don't want to cut the shaft too much.

As to your difficulty in lifting the PTO shaft and fitting the shaft cover bell end between the stabilizer bars, I have found the same issue with some PTO shafts that have excessively large bell end covers. In those cases I simply connect the PTO shaft before getting fully close enough to engage the lift arms on the implement pins. This method also gives you more room the wrestle the shaft onto the tractor PTO spline and get it snapped into place.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Shaft length looks correct. Adequate overlap and fully compressed shouldn't ever happen. I just jinx myself. I know what can happen if you compress the shaft to the limits.

On the old NH years ago I decided to snow blow a chunk of firewood when clearing out a snow pile. Clunk. Shear pins all sheared. Thought ok that was stupid. Replaced all the shear pins and finished snow clearing. Next snowfall was a +30" dump. Box on the blower was 28" tall. It needed to be floated above grade by a few inches. Got about 100 feet down the driveway. BANG! and stalled the motor.

Outside of the snowblower not working. Something did not look right. The shaft plastic cover was all the way compressed and crinkled. Gear box shaft sheared right where the shear pin hole was for the rear knuckle . PITA to slide free. Remanent of shear pin sort of jammed the shaft stuck. It was the only shear pin that sheared. $800 for a new gear box if damaged. Forgot how much just for the shaft. Gear box seemed ok, but now the gear box shaft was a couple inches too short and without a hole for the shear pin. Picked up a cool jig designed for drilling a hole through a round object. Gave it a go. All was good. Used the snowblower until I traded down to the Kubota BX.

Attached an image. The plastic shield bell might rub on the plate under the steel cross rod that you attach the stab arms to if left in place as normal. Flipped upside down gives clearance. Other option would be just to remove the shield. The pto connecting shaft. Not even 1/2" too tight clearance. The knuckle just touches the stab bars preventing it from connecting if below it. For now it is just attach from above the pto.

 

[Blue2Orange]

My pto shaft "hammock" allows it to rest more or less parallel with the ground to back up and quick connect the blower. Then it is a simple process just to extend the shaft, connect, and remove the "hammock".

 

[Russell King]

Oh I see you’re problem now! Sorry for misunderstanding and creating confusion.

On my PTO shaft it is easier to disconnect the plastic shield and slide it back out of the way, Connect the PTO shaft to tractor then attach the plastic shield back to PTO shaft.

I guess you could remove the front bell if there is a way to keep the plastic shield supported at the front without the shield. But I am sure that is NOT a good option for keeping you safe so don’t recommend modifying the plastic shield.