3 pt. hydraulic top link choices

[BruceM]

I need to replace the hydraulic top link on my L2550 as it is too long for the Countyline 6 foot blade and 5 foot box grader I use.

I'd appreciate some advice regarding hydraulic top link choice; there are some which have some external pilot/check valves which claim to stop cylinder creep. Is this an important feature or is any cylinder of appropriate size acceptable?

It seems to me that the valve should stop much cylinder movement and this may be marketing baloney...but my practical hydraulic knowledge is very limited.

 

[SDT]

I need to replace the hydraulic top link on my L2550 as it is too long for the Countyline 6 foot blade and 5 foot box grader I use.

I'd appreciate some advice regarding hydraulic top link choice; there are some which have some external pilot/check valves which claim to stop cylinder creep. Is this an important feature or is any cylinder of appropriate size acceptable?

It seems to me that the valve should stop much cylinder movement and this may be marketing baloney...but my practical hydraulic knowledge is very limited.

Yes.

Pilot operated check valves are, indeed, effective in maintaining preset position.

SDT

 

[eipo]

Theoretically, if the valve is in good condition and the cylinder is in good condition, you won't have much/any creep. But a pilot valve will insure it, if its in good condition.

I removed the pilot valve on my recently installed top link because I want to be able to float the top link. Ive seen many kits and many videos where the check valve isn't present.

 

[BruceM]

Thanks. I found a long thread on Tractorbynet about pilot/check valve top links vs std cylinders; this is not really a Kubota issue.

It seems that most find the creep of std. toplinks to be small and not a problem for normal operations...cylinder and valve leakage being minimal for most. No complaints at all for the pilot/check valved units which do absolutely stop creep (but don't allow float- which I don't need).

Adding 3/4 ball ends to a cheap 2x10 cylinder looks doable and more appealing for my tight budget...I will try it for the top link and if satisfied may change to a 2 spool valve and add a 2x6 side tilt cylinder also as funds permit.

 

[majorwager]

Bruce,

I added a simple top link w/o pilot control. I used very inexpensive swivel eye cylinders from surplus center. Eye @ both ends.

Unknown to me, some Kubota rear remote valves are famous for bypass or leak-down. This process takes several hours so while operating, there is no issue, just when engine/pump is shut off.

The pilot scenario is nice but I opted for a lesser cost solution that functions. I typically lower the implement when tractor is at rest, making bypass a non-issue.

 

[BruceM]

Thanks, MajorWager. I also am in the habit of lowering all hydraulics for safety on shutdown, and minor creep is not an issue for me.

My L2550 is a Cat1 hitch. SurplusCenter has some 1.5" cylinders that have 3/4 ball ends...I wonder if that is sufficient from my rig, or if I should stick to 2 inch bore and bush the 1" ball ends down to 3/4?

 

[majorwager]

Bruce,
You may not have extensive weight on your 3 point BUT when you calculate the SHOCK factor, while traveling w/ an implement, my suggestion is move up to the larger diameter.

The cost difference is relatively close as I remember. They offer their own private label cylinder, which was my choice, but now I believe they stock a Prince equivalent.

I have been satisfied w/ the generic, have had a 1400 lb befco mower bouncing on the three point. No issues.

Best wishes.

 

[BruceM]

Thanks for the good advice. I'll bush the ball ends of the larger cylinder.